The trip would have been a loss as the scrap yard is a good 40 mile round trip, but I was thinking ahead. I brought along a bucket full of dead motorsickle batteries and sold them to a battery shop along the way. Another $4 just barely nudged me into the black. Momma didn't raise no fool...
I cannot figure out why the pic shows up rotated in the post but is OK when I click on it to enlarge it. What's the trick to getting pics to post in a less rotated manner? I gotta know!
Can't tell you until you get 500 posts.
Be patient grasshopper, at 101 posts V'Jim sends you the secret handshake instructions and special decoder ring.
But beware, if you post in the wrong section and max' has to move your post...its off to double secret probation for you!
Can't tell you until you get 500 posts.
Be patient grasshopper, at 101 posts V'Jim sends you the secret handshake instructions and special decoder ring.
But beware, if you post in the wrong section and max' has to move your post...its off to double secret probation for you!
...
Rather safe than sorry, as one of my club members had the same thing happen recently. Difference is that he had to leave his bike and hitch-hike home on order to fetch his car and trailer to go and collect it again. That was a 274 mile round trip for him.
OUCH. And having never been to Africa myself, in my mind I'd be assuming the bike won't even be there when I get back.
Meh, nevermind, I'd think the same thing many places here in the US.
Plastifix by Polyvance seems to be a pretty good fixer, provided you're willing to do a little sculpting, dremeling (it's that even a word?) and sanding.
Repairing a broken fairing tab.Been there done that. Used a SS fender washer reamed a tad to accept the well nut while being snug. That washer will tuck in behind broken tab and large enough to grab more plastic. Anyway, it worked for me.
I had to first make the tab using the "modeling clay". Then I had to trim it more or less to fit where the tab is to be "affixed". Then you take more of that medium and basically "glue" it in position.
The photo was taken about 10 minutes after "gluing" the tab in position. I'll take my Dremel and shape it as needed, fill in any low spots, and when I'm done, I hope that fixes it. Fortunately no painting needed - this is all under the Tupperware.
Plastifix by Polyvance seems to be a pretty good fixer, provided you're willing to do a little sculpting, dremeling (it's that even a word?) and sanding.
Helluva lot cheaper than new Tupperware - especially that particular piece, which I didn't even bother to price knowing it was going to be several hundred dollars more than the Plastifix.
Repairing a broken fairing tab.
I had to first make the tab using the "modeling clay". Then I had to trim it more or less to fit where the tab is to be "affixed". Then you take more of that medium and basically "glue" it in position.
The photo was taken about 10 minutes after "gluing" the tab in position. I'll take my Dremel and shape it as needed, fill in any low spots, and when I'm done, I hope that fixes it. Fortunately no painting needed - this is all under the Tupperware.
Plastifix by Polyvance seems to be a pretty good fixer, provided you're willing to do a little sculpting, dremeling (it's that even a word?) and sanding.
Helluva lot cheaper than new Tupperware - especially that particular piece, which I didn't even bother to price knowing it was going to be several hundred dollars more than the Plastifix.
Been there done that. Used a SS fender washer reamed a tad to accept the well nut while being snug. That washer will tuck in behind broken tab and large enough to grab more plastic. Anyway, it worked for me.
.... dremeling (it's that even a word?)....
Yes according to Google.....but so is Googling according to them. If it's still here in 50 years then we'll know for sure...about both words.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
That fix looks pretty good Eupher.
The upper one is more difficult to reinforce but the lower one can be supplementally supported by a DIY metal bracket from the
mirror mounting bolts. I think (hope) that this takes some of the strain off of the upper one. I have supports attached to the upper ones for the
dash shelf on mine but I think the strain is transferred through the top cover down to the metal reinforcement, as so far the uppers haven't deteriorated
any further than the initial cracks. The upper well nuts are cranked pretty tight in my set up to keep the dash shelf from flexxing on bumpy pavement.
I suppose that a thicker and longer piece of steel could be made to reinforce both well nuts,...... someday.