I had mine at the dealership for the last week, lost only keyfob last week, so they ordered a new keyfob and an emergency fob and key blanks for both. I had to pay for a lock smith to open my saddle bag where my owners manual was and thankfully the original dealer wrote the key number in the manual so he was able to cut a temp key to access under the seat (Kipass ECU) then on Friday determined that they just couldn't reprogram a new keyfob, but actually had to order a new Kipass ECU which is suppose to come with those 2 keyfobs that I paid $400.00 + 70 S&H. Closed Sunday and Monday. Then yesterday the new ECU and fobs did not arrive even though they where ordered and sent overnight. So today the dealership got 2 sets of ECU's with only one keyfob, long story short they installed the ECU then had to learn how to program it. The only thing the dealer could not do was associate the TPMS sensors as the are in the tires and they would have to remove each tire to get the ID # off each sensor. I opted to ride and remove the wheels on Monday and the just break the bead and take photos of each sensor with a friends help, then air up the tire and reset the bead and reinstall the wheels back on the bike. Then go to the dealer 1st thing Tuesday morning with the TPMS sensor numbers and have them finish. Other then the tire pressure showing 0 for both front and rear tires everything else is working great. IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE KEYFOB, DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND GET YOURSELF A SPARE KEYFOB. IF YOU LOSE YOUR ONLY KEYFOB IT WILL COST YOU ROUGHLY $1100.00 TO GET YOUR CONNIE UP AND RUNNING, PAY A LITTLE NOW ABOUT $300.00, OR ALOT LATER!
Wow, that sucks! I think that we pretty much told you that this was gonna happen after you told us that you lost the one and only FOB.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg269212#msg269212How many working FOBs do you have now? Remember, there are two types (there's pics of both around here someplace) one is thin and doesn't use a battery the other is larger and does use a battery. There are also two modes used by the larger FOB (passive and active) and one used by the smaller FOB (passive) and these have to be programmed into the bike in order for the bike to recognize the FOBs. The active mode allows the bike to be started when the large FOB is within 5 feet or so of the bike. In the passive mode the FOB has to be in contact with the boss on the ignition housing. Both of these modes have to be programmed into the bike separately. You should test the passive mode on the large FOB to make sure that it was done correctly. Remove the battery from the large FOB and place it on the boss of the ignition housing. If it was done correctly the bike will start.
This is an older document but it still applies to current bikes. There's info on the two modes used by the larger FOBs.
http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=455