I haven't looked at the c-14 TPS, but if it's non - adjustable then to me it would require calibration electronically. Improper calibration would be the same as an adjustable TPS being improperly adjusted during initial installation. Steve
And that is why I specifically recommended [the guy I will not mention again] do some specific tests because they will yield data in the form of air / fuel ratios and especially, any changes in them. Things like 'it runs a bit better' are not really what I look for in 'definitive'.
Brian
Rem - you mention why doesn't this recalibration mess up a good running bike - that seems simple to my mind, because when you sweep the tps on an already calibrated bike you haven't changed anything. So do an experiment like to OP did - purposely do a sweep with the TPS not going to base idle, and mess up the calibration on a properly calibrated bike. If things change, then you have to agree that there is truth to the system needing this sweep calibration.
One last point - I have been told that toyota throttle sensors have 2 hall effect sensors in each unit. (there are 2 sensors, but I cant swear they're hall effect, it just seems like a pot to me) The sensors work to monitor each other. if they get out of sync for 2 seconds or more, it fires a fault code. Well, it's supposed to anyway. I wonder if the kaw TPS is like that - does it have 2 outputs to the ECU? Steve
Steve, the factory TPS is adjustable...the holes are slotted. As Brian mentioned earlier, it would be set at the factory, and paint marked. They would set it so the correct voltage is indicated at WOT/100%, and then closed throttle or 0% would fall somewhere within the correct range for the ECU to see.
Haha...
Unfortunately, I'm still having a little bit of a hard time with all of this and I'm not sure I can do any further testing. I've already shown that the ECU is seeing the same TPS voltages before and after TPS calibrating, and that has sort of been debunked already...lol.
I'm not sure this is going to make any sense or not, but I'm still finding this all very confusing as to how it is supposed to work....or furthermore, how the TPS would get out of calibration in the first place?
As mentioned previously...this calibration apparently only works on bikes that have a "choppy" or "hesitant" throttle. The procedure appears to do nothing on bikes that are already working fine (including my own 2010 C14). See, this is the part I have a problem with....why does it do nothing with bikes that are already working fine? If a calibration procedure will "correct" mistakes, then the same procedure performed in reverse (sort of) would un-correct the throttle, and cause a problem, no?
So, to add to that....what exactly is the trigger to put the bike/ECU into TPS calibration mode? Turning the ignition on? I don't think so. Turning the throttle twice and then turning the ignition off? Or, is the first twist of the throttle the trigger and then the second twist is the calibration?
In knowing what the ECU does with the TPS feedback, it's hard for me to grasp why/what would change to make the bike hesitate or become choppy? Also, in knowing that the TPS feedback does not effect the engine idle, why are people seeing changes in engine idle with this TPS calibration?
Why are there guys on the COG forum experiencing smoother shifting transmissions after performing this TPS calibration?
Somebody, somewhere has a lot of explaining to do...lol.
Hey BDF, I'm not sure how I'd even test this with my ECU/Logbox/wbO2 set-up....suggestions?...lol.
Rem
What I think you can or will see on your O2 feedback is an altered mixture. Let's just suppose this does calibrate the throttle: that would mean if done incorrectly, it would miss- calibrate the throttle, right? Well, if you do the above things but go from 10% to 100% throttle, that should badly miss-calibrate the throttle settings, especially on the low end. If that happens, you should see your mixture change, lean I think, at low throttle settings. And then by again calibrating the throttle, the correct mixture should be restored, which your O2 sensor should show. At least that is how it seems like it would have to work to me.
Brian
I just tried to mess up the calibration on my bike. I did the same thing as the PO did in his video, with vice grips taking the place of his cruise control . Bottom line, no change at all. Just more fodder for the gristmill. Steve
Haha...ok, ok...I'll see what I an do this weekend. I'm on the road and living in "The cage" for a couple days;).
Gives me too much time to ponder these deep technical topics...lol.
Rem
Did you take it for a ride afterwards? I'd be willing to bet you'd feel a difference. I didn't take a video of my ride after mis-calibrating it but it died right off the line.
I did. it ran exactly the same as prior to messing with it. I had warmed the engine and had the idle stabilized at 1k before doing the deed, and it was exactly the same afterwards. Seriously, no change for my bike, and yes, i can tell the difference on things like this. Steve
Martin, did you perform the procedure on your bike after it was warmed up or before?
Yeah, I mentioned the BMW recal several pages back. I've done the recal before on a BMW of mine. Saw technique again on a BMW site post on choppy erratic acceleration problems with a boxer engine. Was done to recal the TPS... May have nothing in common with the C14, but it did make a change in the OP's video on this thread, with his C14. . .
Before you replied i went out and tried to "un-calibrate" mine and have it die. It didnt... I was surprised... It worked perfectly as it did before. So I tried un-calibrating it again and still worked great...
Remember that simply turning the key to on is only part of it. The red ignition on/off switch needs to be in the on/run position, too. Should hear the fuel pump pressure up, then do the throttle movements. Key On is just an accessories mode until the ignition on/off switch is turned tp on. Wonder how I know this???