rear end fluid change

[Howard kelly]

has anyone done this themselves?  howoften do you do it? what tool did you use to open the filler cap?

Thanks

[So Cal Joe]

Most of us do it. I use a big washer and a pair of plyers to open it. A quarted will also work. I do it every other oil change (6000 miles. Only takes a minute

[mcclaskeyj]

Most of us do it. I use a big washer and a pair of plyers to open it. A quarted will also work. I do it every other oil change (6000 miles. Only takes a minute

I also used a quarter and plyers to get the top opened. 

And I thought I was the only one doing that cause all the rest of you seem to have a tool for everything. 

[B.D.F.]

As others have said, a large coin and <pliers, an adjustable wrench> to get it open. Just a suggestion but if you want to do yourself a favor, tighten it back up with a large coin and NO TOOL. That way you will be able to get it open again next time. The final drive cap is identical to the oil fill cap, and the oil fill cap is always opened / closed using nothing but hand pressure. Because the final drive filler has a slot people tend to use metal tools and over tighten it making it hard to open every single time. All you have to do is put a bit of pressure on the O-ring that seals the cap; it is not a pipe thread that would require heavy pressure to seal.

And be careful with the drain bolt too- quite a few people have stripped that by over tightening it. I would suggest tightening it with a socket mounted to a hand drive tool that is used like a screwdriver rather than an actual wrench or ratchet. Again, it only needs to be snug, not overly tight.

Brian

has anyone done this themselves?  howoften do you do it? what tool did you use to open the filler cap?

Thanks

[Howard kelly]

thanks--good advice from everyone!

[Taff]

Good advice from the group.

When I change my final drive oil I open the top filler plug half a turn and take a clean rag and wipe near where the "O" ring seats. I back the filler cap off and do the same procedure until all of the crud has been removed, before the filler cap parts company with the drive unit.
This removes any grud from the area before you remove the filler cap so that the crud doesn't find it's way into the drive unit itself.

I also inspect the old fluid to see if there are any metal bits that could indicate a problem up the road. For several changes, the oil will be darker and this is normal in a new bike due to break in moly additives for the gears etc. Having a little bit of metal swarf may be normal due to gear wear and break in, just don't want to see major swarf.

Hope this helps.

Jon.

[jonathan]

It's easy enough to do, so I do it every oil change. That way I don't have to think about when the last time I did it was.

[ZedHed]

Every other oil change -- unscrew the drain plug, let oil drain into a pan, replace drain plug, open fill plug with an appropriate tool (NOT a big screwdriver, use a washer and pliers) fill to bottom edge of fill plug with appropriate factory specified fluid, replace the filler plug and you are done.  Make sure bike is on center stand.

Better yet, buy Fred's videos................

[rwilliamm]

Yeah my filler plug was really tight. Used a quarter and an adjustable wrench. Ended up bending the quarter some. Didnt even try to use a flat blade screwdriver since I dont have a wide enough blade.

[BlkBird]

It's easy enough to do, so I do it every oil change. That way I don't have to think about when the last time I did it was.

It doesn't cost that much either.. I do it every oil change.

Maintenance is cheap, repairs are costly.

[Howard kelly]

apparently American currency isnt worth much these day.  bent a quarter to a 90 degree ange, as well as a nickle, trying to loosen the cap.  No such luck getting it loose with coins--but feat not!  an old harley seat to fender bracket was the perfect size and it came loose instantly.
all done. no problems. all good.  thanks for the help

[Pokey]

I do mine every other oil change, and if you get a billet end cap from Murph......you can very easily remove and install it.

[Necron99]

I just use my fingers.....  Oh, but I replaced the slotted cap with an aluminum oil fill cap.  LOL  I also use a final drive gear additive that adds moly to the mix.  Probably overkill but hey, an ounce of prevention..... 

[wally_games]

I go ahead and do it every oil change. Can't hurt. You're supposed to fill it to the top of the threads while it's sitting on the center stand. It takes so little that a quart will last a looooong time.

[h2smokin]

every time I do the oil, not much there and its draining while the oil is

[Z71]

I made a tool that makes removal of the cap easy. It consists of a 7 inch long, 1/2 inch diameter hex head bolt with a right size washer firmly clamped between two nuts on one end of the bolt.  This gives me plenty of leverage.  The cost of the tool was about $ 2 for the bolt, washer, and nuts.

[maxtog]

I replaced my final gear oil today for the first time myself (first time ever was at the dealer, who I had do the first oil changes).  Since the manual says to ride the bike to warm up the oil, and it was already on the center stand, I decided to start the bike and put it into third gear and let the rear wheel spin for several minutes.   Traction control doesn't like that!  It threw a "KTRC ERROR!"   Thankfully the filler cap was not hard to remove using a large washer and pliers.  Used Redline 75W90 Synthetic GL5+, which is not a straight weight oil, but I think it should be OK.

[fmwhit]

I change my rear end fluid at least once a year.  As others have said, take the bike for a few mile ride to get the fluid a little warm before draining. Don't overfill, more is not better.  Don't over torque when replacing the drain and filler caps.

Fred

[MAN OF BLUES]

I replaced my final gear oil today for the first time myself (first time ever was at the dealer, who I had do the first oil changes).  Since the manual says to ride the bike to warm up the oil, and it was already on the center stand, I decided to start the bike and put it into third gear and let the rear wheel spin for several minutes.   Traction control doesn't like that!  It threw a "KTRC ERROR!"   Thankfully the filler cap was not hard to remove using a large washer and pliers.  Used Redline 75W90 Synthetic GL5+, which is not a straight weight oil, but I think it should be OK.

well, I hope you let it set for an hour before re-filling....
never spin the wheel during the re-fill.

doing the operation on the centerstand is fine, just fill till it hits the opening,

never spin the wheel during the fill...

[wally_games]

Did someone point out to never spin the wheel during the re-fill?

Oh, yeah, and don't forget to never spin the wheel during the re-fill.