Kawi shop in Manassas will swap shims with me for free. Sending my son to pick them up today, schedule permitting. If not, I'll get them Saturday. Went through my numbers again. I think I'm good. we'll see when I measure again.
one question though on torque...there are either one or two bolts you just can't get a socket onto...how to torque them. Is a needle type torque wrench ok to use here?
There should not be any fluid leaking from the piston on your caliper. Did you inspect the seal for any visible damage? If it is in fact, leaking from around the piston you will likely need a piston rebuild kit or a new caliper.
crap. knew it was too good to be true. ill disassemble tomorrow after i bleed the entire system again. i guess document and inspect every part. where do i get a rebuild kit should i need one? If the seal is broken, I wonder if i can take to kawi for a fix.
IF you break the caliper halves apart I would replace the seals of the fluid passages in the bodies. That shouldn't be necessary though. If you find the piston seal(s) to be bad just replace that seal and the dust seal. They are inexpensive and easy to do. Just remember not to put the piston back in dry. Use some clean brake fluid on the seals to help keep the new seals from being damaged when putting the piston in. Easy as pie.What he said and I would add that you might not want to go looking for work and replace those parts unnecessarily.
What he said and I would add that you might not want to go looking for work and replace those parts unnecessarily.
Just to make sure I got this straight from reading the manual....It appears the brake fluid pushes directly against the cylinder...and the fluid is maintained in the caliper by the fluid seal. and dust seal keeps the dust out. So by pumping the brakes, as I was working on the right-hand side, the left hand caliper (which was dangling and pads removed) cylinders closed, and one of them was passed the fluid seal, which would result in brake fluid leaking out from behind the cylinder. Does this make sense? It would appear to me that I don't necessarly have a bad seal, but the fluid came out as expected (albeit not the way one would WANT the fluid to drain, as I had a lil mess to clean up).
Just the same, I plan on ordering some new fluid seals and dust seals...is that enough? Or are there some other parts to the "rebuild" kit. I was planning on ordering directly from Ron Ayers...make sense or any better ideas?
18 Dec: TOday I finished buttoning up the engine, put the cam position sensor cover back on. Had to go buy some high temp sealant before i closed it up. Also reinstalled stick coils, and associated harness. Fired her up and looked for leaks...all good. Boy I tell you once she turned on and sounded nice..I had to do a high five with my self. I then proceeded to do the throttle body sync and whoop whoop, they were still all spot-on and balanced. I bled the front brakes, installed new brake pads (the original set got 14,800 miles, and the wear markers were gone. I also noticed what appeared to be chunks missing from the edges on a couple of the pads. I cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner. As i was cleaning the right side (I had both calipers unmounted), the left side cylinder seemed to almost "pop" out and started leaking brake fluid...is that normal? I pushed it back in cleaned all up, installed the pads and then went on ahead and bled the front brakes. Oh yeah, I'm quite the noob. I didn't notice the calipers and master cylinders already had what appeared to be speed bleeder valves. What is the difference between these OEM valves and the one's Murph sells? If nothing, I just wasted money buying a set. My bike has been down so long, I am opting not to install the galfer hoses yet. Save for another day. I also drained the coolant and put new coolant (Honda HP). Managed to get much of the left side fairing stays back in place.
Congrats Will, good to hear that it all worked out for you. And it sounds like you did a great job, especially considering this is your first time doing it.
The OEM bleeder valves are not speed bleeders, they are just ordinarily bleeders that you have to turn with a wrench to open and close them. Speed bleeders have a one- way check valve in them so you can bleed the brakes with the bleeders left open; they will not suck fluid (or air) back in when you release the lever. To the best of my knowledge, no vehicle manufacturer uses speed bleeders as stock equipment.
Brian
24 Dec: So bled the front, rear brakes, and clutch. Also installed the speed bleeders and the front galfer lines. I'm a little confused though...how do these speed bleeders work?? How to make them bleed? Don't need to bleed anything right now (already empty). Is there a special attachment that pushes the check valve down?
A speed bleeder is a one-way device and will only allow air and fluid to exit the system but not enter. So you open a speed bleeder with a wrench as you would a normal bleeder but then just pump the brake lever (or clutch lever) without having to close the bleeder at all. So you open a speed bleeder at the beginning of bleeding and leave it alone until you are all finished and then close it. A regular bleeder would need to be opened and closed on each stroke of the brake lever.
Brian
Brian, this is what I did with the OEM bleeders. I opened with a wrench and kept pumping the brakes until i was sure it bled out totally, then i closed. I think maybe I still don't understand...appreciate your patience...can you hit me again?