Had a hell'of time, installing my PR3's

[Supatramp]

I don't have a lot of tire installing experience, especially in the last 20 yrs.
I was ready enough for a new set of sneek's because of a road trip I have planned, so I wanted spanking new PR3's on my Connie for the start.
The back tire wasn't any problem, except getting seated. After about 1/2hr. it magically seated and took her for a quick test spin. Thank goodness I knew enough to crawl till I was sure things were good to go, because when I stepped on the rear brake, it wasn't there. I had forgotten to replace the anchor bolt for the caliper and it swivel, pulling the brake line into the cotter key.
Got a nice stainless off Amazon, for less than Kawa's replacement rubber line.
After repairing that, I felt mentally ready to attack the front wheel for the PR3 install. It was a little harder than the rear for me and I couldn't get the front seated for all the gold in Fort Knox. Took it to the dealer this morning and let them blow it up and balance it.
Remounted it and took a six mile test ride. It was worth ever dime and the loss of sleep last night from the aggravation with the front wheel.
Gotta finish up in a little while(front fender). Anyone else mount their Connie's tire, did ya have any issues?

[Loren]

A little tire mounting lube on the rim and bead before trying to set the beads always makes it easier.  It doesn't require as much air and the POP is never as scary!!! 

[ridingfar]

Clean up the inside bead seating area of the wheel with gentle use of one of those green plastic pot scrubbing pads (both sides of the wheel). Use a little lube on the tire bead; I use a mixture of Murphy's soap and ethylene glycol (green) antifreeze for my tire lube.

I've had no particular issues with mounting tire on the C14...

THT!

[dras]

I had an unpleasant experience changing mine too earlier this summer. I didn't have any trouble seating the beads, the problem I had was getting the old rear tire off the rim. Had an epic battle with it for about 2 hours and finally gave up. Took it over to Cycle Gear and they got it changed. Took it back home and installed it on the bike without issue. I then changed the front tire and had absolutely no problem levering the old tire off and the new one on. Don't know why I couldn't get the rear off the rim with the same levers, lube, etc. Guess it just wasn't in the cards that day. After I got mad things started getting worse so decided I'd better give up before I broke something.

Mine were Shinko 009 Raven's replacing the old Roadsmarts  FWIW.

[B.D.F.]

Anyone who has used tire irons to change a tubeless tire has had at least one bad experience- it is the nature of the beast and the first time or two can be downright ugly.

Using tire irons to mount / demount tires from wheels is a lot more technique than strength. It can also be hard to do if you are trying to do it on the ground.

I use a Harbor Freight tire changing tool but only to break the beads and hold the wheel where it is easy to work on- I still use irons the old fashioned way. A little lube really helps a lot but it also tends to make the irons slip sideways. Good tire irons go a long way to make it easier; I find the Motion Pro compound tire iron works very well, not because it is so long but because it is curved and reaches around and under the tire bead easily. It is the long one shown here: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0049

The number one thing I would say people do incorrectly is to try and take too much of a bite; two or three inches away from the last tire iron placement is too far and will take tremendous pressure to move the bead over the rim, if it will go at all. Very small spacing between the irons is the key in my opinion- even if the tire irons touch each other, the tire will still mount incredibly quickly. Small steps with little force are the way to go.

There are some good videos on YouTube about changing motorcycle tires with tire irons- take a look and I think the next time you do it it will be a lot easier.

Brian

I don't have a lot of tire installing experience, especially in the last 20 yrs.
I was ready enough for a new set of sneek's because of a road trip I have planned, so I wanted spanking new PR3's on my Connie for the start.
The back tire wasn't any problem, except getting seated. After about 1/2hr. it magically seated and took her for a quick test spin. Thank goodness I knew enough to crawl till I was sure things were good to go, because when I stepped on the rear brake, it wasn't there. I had forgotten to replace the anchor bolt for the caliper and it swivel, pulling the brake line into the cotter key.
Got a nice stainless off Amazon, for less than Kawa's replacement rubber line.
After repairing that, I felt mentally ready to attack the front wheel for the PR3 install. It was a little harder than the rear for me and I couldn't get the front seated for all the gold in Fort Knox. Took it to the dealer this morning and let them blow it up and balance it.
Remounted it and took a six mile test ride. It was worth ever dime and the loss of sleep last night from the aggravation with the front wheel.
Gotta finish up in a little while(front fender). Anyone else mount their Connie's tire, did ya have any issues?

[Supatramp]

A little tire mounting lube on the rim and bead before trying to set the beads always makes it easier.  It doesn't require as much air and the POP is never as scary!!!

I used No Mar gel lube, I actually like the double pop

Clean up the inside bead seating area of the wheel with gentle use of one of those green plastic pot scrubbing pads (both sides of the wheel). Use a little lube on the tire bead; I use a mixture of Murphy's soap and ethylene glycol (green) antifreeze for my tire lube.
I've had no particular issues with mounting tire on the C14...THT!

I did all that, one of the reasons I like doing stuff myself is, I can give the rims and calipers a good scrubbing of all the dust.

I use a Harbor Freight tire changing tool but only to break the beads and hold the wheel where it is easy to work on- I still use irons the old fashioned way. A little lube really helps a lot but it also tends to make the irons slip sideways. Good tire irons go a long way to make it easier; I find the Motion Pro compound tire iron works very well, not because it is so long but because it is curved and reaches around and under the tire bead easily. It is the long one shown here: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0049
The number one thing I would say people do incorrectly is to try and take too much of a bite; two or three inches away from the last tire iron placement is too far and will take tremendous pressure to move the bead over the rim, if it will go at all. Very small spacing between the irons is the key in my opinion- even if the tire irons touch each other, the tire will still mount incredibly quickly. Small steps with little force are the way to go.
Brian

Not much of a problem getting old rubber off and new on, just some seating issues.
I actually used those irons you mentioned, love'em.
A tire machine and table are in the future

[shreveportSS]

I dropped mine off at the Stealership Tuesday before I left town. Picked it up this morning with new PR3s on it. I wished they would have used some lube. 

 I rode it for about 200 miles this evening to wear the nubbies off so I'm not hurtin as much now.

[B.D.F.]

About 1/2 of the tires I have mounted have resisted filling with air because the bead(s) didn't bear against the tire well enough to make a seal. I stand the tire up and gently push down on the tire a few times while pushing air into the valve and they have always made a seal. Sometimes a gentle bouncing will get a seal started too. It seems that basically jostling the tire and wheel a bit will get a seal started. And of course once they catch the initial seal, they just seal better as the pressure inside builds up.

Brian

<snip>

Not much of a problem getting old rubber off and new on, just some seating issues.
I actually used those irons you mentioned, love'em.
A tire machine and table are in the future

[stevewfl]

Congrats on purchasing the best rubber ever produced by mankind

[OregonLAN]

I've done enough tire changes in my life to know that it's just not worth my time to do them anymore. Our local dealer charges $25.00 a piece to change and balance them provided you bring the wheels in. I have no problem with that price considering all the blood, sweat and tears that goes into changing them without professional tools.

[Slvrvalk1]

I use a Harbor Freight tire changer to break the bead and then mount the wheel on the motorcycle adapter.  Then I use a Mojolever (http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm) to take the tire off.  You still might use a tire iron to assist with the process, but it is much easier to remove and mount a tire with the Mojolever.  I do not have any affiliation with the Mojolever company.

Dave

[Supatramp]

About 1/2 of the tires I have mounted have resisted filling with air because the bead(s) didn't bear against the tire well enough to make a seal. I stand the tire up and gently push down on the tire a few times while pushing air into the valve and they have always made a seal. Sometimes a gentle bouncing will get a seal started too. It seems that basically jostling the tire and wheel a bit will get a seal started. And of course once they catch the initial seal, they just seal better as the pressure inside builds up.
Brian

I'm sure that was the case here, and my minimal tire mounting knowledge, didn't help a lot. I bounced it, strapped it and beat on it
The dealer claims, the tire sensors restrict the airflow, making it difficult to get the tires to seat, on a Concours.

Congrats on purchasing the best rubber ever produced by mankind

Thanks for the heads up about Jake Brown having them in stock, I had been waiting three weeks from Motorcycle Superstores

I've done enough tire changes in my life to know that it's just not worth my time to do them anymore. Our local dealer charges $25.00 a piece to change and balance them provided you bring the wheels in. I have no problem with that price considering all the blood, sweat and tears that goes into changing them without professional tools.

I actually enjoy doing most maintenance on my bikes. Sometimes it can overwhelm me, but being retired I try and save whenever I can, within reason. I do a lot of trips, alone, so the more I can do, the better chance I can get back on the road if I
break down, in the boonies, miles from help.
The dealer I brought the front to, charged me $38, to get to inflated and balanced. The guy told me he gave me 10% off, because it was already installed on the rim.

I use a Harbor Freight tire changer to break the bead and then mount the wheel on the motorcycle adapter.  Then I use a Mojolever (http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm) to take the tire off.  You still might use a tire iron to assist with the process, but it is much easier to remove and mount a tire with the Mojolever.  I do not have any affiliation with the Mojolever company.
Dave

Yep, a tire machine or some sort and a lift are gonna be added to my garage, as soon as possible.

[rcannon409]

Supertramp, did you balance them?

I've changed a lot of dirt bike (tube) tires.  I have those, with rim locks, fairly well figured out and am now getting to the point where blood loss is down 50%. The front 21 inch tires, with tubes, are not bad.  Rears are slightly less fun due to stiff sidewalls and two rimlocks.
 
Supertramp, if you've dealt with dirtbike tube tires, how much different, or harder, are the tubless tires to deal with?  I will be going with the pr3's as well.  My local Cycle Gear refused to deal with the tps system....

[Supatramp]

Supertramp, did you balance them?
I've changed a lot of dirt bike (tube) tires.  I have those, with rim locks, fairly well figured out and am now getting to the point where blood loss is down 50%. The front 21 inch tires, with tubes, are not bad.  Rears are slightly less fun due to stiff sidewalls and two rimlocks.
 Supertramp, if you've dealt with dirtbike tube tires, how much different, or harder, are the tubless tires to deal with?  I will be going with the pr3's as well.  My local Cycle Gear refused to deal with the tps system....

I haven't done a dirt bike tire in 20yrs.,  but I seem to remember concentrating on powdering the tube and watching out not to pinch it on a rimlock or on the bead. I recall the Triump Trident my friend had, had three rim locks. They must be a real challenge for backyard mechanics.
I feel tubeless are easier to change, not having to worry about a tube to pinch, although tube tires seating are a given.
I static balanced the rear tire and the dealer did the front as part of the $38 fee. The PR3's don't have a alignment  mark, that
I could find, except for a bar code logo on the bead, so I lined that up with the valve.
I don't know why Cycle Gear would deny themselves income because of sensors, unless their employees aren't up to snuff. I definitely tried to be aware of where the sensors where, while I was using the tire irons. I didn't want to spend $175 to replace one of those.
I'm definitely going to buy a inexpensive tire machine of some sort. I've obtained four bikes over the last few years and one of them always seems to need tires.
Any knowledge one possesses might just help you get back on the road caused by a breakdown and not have to wait or be at the mercy of a tow service.
On a side note, I used one of those mushroom shaped plugs, on my Harley, and it worked great initially. It started leaking more and more as time went by, but they aren't suppose to be a permanent  repair. I noticed when I changed that tire, that the mushroom head had worked it's way, away from the tire, about a quarter inch. I don't know if glue would have prevented that, but the company said, no glue required.

[OregonLAN]

Wow, $38.00 to air it up and balance it?! That seems a little high. Heck, the Harley Davidson dealership quoted me $75.00 to change both of mine if I brought them in.

As for changing your own, get a tire changing stand/bead breaker, like this:
http://www.mikesracingproducts.com/mrp_web_site_012.htm

and 3 good quality spoons:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/65/4449/ITEM/Motion-Pro-16-Tire-Tool.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
or
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4482/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Spoon-Tire-Iron.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

Without spending a ton of money, these tools will be invaluable for DIY tire changes.

Also, you're going to need a stand:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/75/35861/ITEM/MotoStance-M-1-Front-Stand.aspx

And a static balancer:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/13/133/25575/ITEM/Drag-Specialties-Wheel-Balancing-Stand.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

Harbor Freight sells a balancer for $50.00, but it's kinda flimsy. I simply made mine out of angle iron. Others make them out of 2x4's.

[Tabarswaacky]

With no intentions of saving the old tire.
After breaking the bead with a harbour freight tire machine. (I only have the bottom part.)
Place it on the workbench.
Remove the valve stem
Sqeeze the tire with two thrifty wood clamps
Protect the rims with rim protectors
Cut 90% of the tire with my sawzall
Cut the beads with my bolt cutters
Tire is off . took ten minutes.
Carefull with the tire pressure monitors
Spray the rim and tire edge with windex
Press first bead on while tire is on the floor, by hand
The second bead requires a little more persuasion with the tire spoons.
Total time,,, Maybe 40 minutes
7000 kilometres on the pr3's showing little wear. Great in the pouring rain
QUALITY PRODUCT
[/quote]

[texrider]

How to inflate a tire with WD 40

[Ga. Cycle Rider]

If you have enough bikes or friends with bikes you may want to consider a decent tire machine. I have the coats 220 and a Marc parnes balancer. No-mar makes a nice one as well. Most of the harbor freight stuff is junk.

In my case with 3 to 4 bikes plus tons of friends with bikes I got sick of taking wheels to the shop. You know the drill....take them off, drive over, leave them, drive back. The straw that broke the camels back for me was when I brought a set back and the rear tire was on backwards. That was it.

I bought a Coats 220 and the balancer all in for about a grand. But here is where the numbers start to make sense. I have changed  105 tires on it. That includes mine and my buds. Add the $ saved @25-30 a wheel....thats somewhere between $2625 and $3150 in labor saved. Not to mention the time saved and the fact that you know it is done right.

I have never asked a friend for a dime to use the equipment, but I have been bought a lunch or two and have swilled a few cold ones on them.  Its all good.

I am also going to add to that # in about an hour when my former FJR shows up for a set of pr2'S that are in the garage.

[Supatramp]

If you have enough bikes or friends with bikes you may want to consider a decent tire machine.

I'm fortunate to be in that same boat, four bikes in the garage. A lift & tire machine are in the near future.

The straw that broke the camels back for me was when I brought a set back and the rear tire was on backwards.

Shops pay minimum wage and charge premium rates, and as you said, bringing stuff to the dealer and then having to leave it and return. 
....thats somewhere between $2625 and $3150 in labor saved. Not to mention the time saved and the fact that you know it is done right.

I enjoy doing my own work that I'm competent to do, most of the time. In this case when I had to wheels off, I was able to get into the unreachable areas, and clean all the brake dust off the calipers, etc. etc.

Barring any unforeseen events, I'm leaving tomorrow morning for Colorado and I do feel confident about my Connie's prep, that I've done, especially starting with fresh oil & PR3's(I'm amazed about the how well they've made the bike feel). There's about a 50/50 chance, I may also do the Grand Canyon. It's up to the weather gods.
I just have to load everything in the bags and do a balance test run.

[Cheesecake]

I had an unpleasant experience changing mine too earlier this summer. I didn't have any trouble seating the beads, the problem I had was getting the old rear tire off the rim. Had an epic battle with it for about 2 hours and finally gave up. Took it over to Cycle Gear and they got it changed.

When the old tire resists leaving the rim, take a utility knife and slice it off. Just be careful not to mar the rim or your paws.