please don't take this lightly, and please don't take this as a condescending comment, I HIGHLY suggest you get a FSM, either from some download source on ebay, or a hard copy, before messing further
I can't link a source for a manual, as we do not do that here, and frown upon those that do try to do it.. it's all about copyrights, so I hope you understand...
do a search, and you can get what you need online, for cheap. all I can say about that.
Those leads are not any "spooky" diagnostic connectors as some peoplemight try to lead you to believe. The leads you've shown are simply switched 12V and ground that are on the same circuit as the 12V accessory socket on the dash as you can see from the wiring diagram.
I am pretty sure I used those to power my Admore lightbar It was very nice of Kawasaki to supply leads on the rear and the front... although they don't supply much power (5A if memory serves).
(P.S., trusting MY memory seems to be increasingly dangerous as time goes on, which is one reason I keep so many notes and logs.)
I just picked up a 2010 C14. I'm un-doing the fender eliminator the P.O. did, and found these two wires that don't seem to belong anywhere. One is yellow/black, the other is black. It runs alongside the plate light.
It's 10A actually. But keep in mind that those 10A are shared between the front accessory socket and these lines. Note also that these are switched, via a relay, so there will not be power at either point with the bike switched off.
Just for arguments sake I thought the gen 1 was 10 amp and the gen 2 changed to 5 amp.
Probably needed a quicker blowing fuse for those who didn't read the owners manual.Or they used a smaller gauge wire.
For what reason?
Why? A closer look at the wiring diagram appears to show that they shared some wiring between the AUX circuit and the 10A grip warmer circuit. So I suggest that rather than up the wire gauge to accommodate 20A or run a separate circuit for the grips warmers, they "split" the difference (sort of) and reduced the AUX circuit to 5A.
Those leads are not any "spooky" diagnostic connectors as some peoplemight try to lead you to believe. The leads you've shown are simply switched 12V and ground that are on the same circuit as the 12V accessory socket on the dash as you can see from the wiring diagram.
The diagnostic connectors, and there are two of them, are near there but not the same and it's highly unlikely you will do anything by messing with them since they only speak "KDS3". One is connected to the ECU (the black one) and the other connects to the ABS controller (the translucent one).