2012 C14 Won't Turn Over

[jtk1531]

starter motor will need a lot more power than lights on the dash and fuel pump priming, and even powering the coils.
i had the same problem a few months back (same year bike, daily use).

i check battery voltages with a multimeter every month (after shutting off engine for 6-8 hours), showed voltages above 12.7v.
dash showed 12v+ when bike is switched on (but before engine is started). cleaned up all the battery connections, multiple times.
but yet, the engine had a hard time starting. loads of hesitation when starting, and there was a few times that the engine just stopped dead before turning again.
replaced the battery, and everything is working perfectly.

i think a battery load tester would be more accurate in telling you the state of the battery.

[maxtog]

  He stated that gauges shows 12+ volts not 14.4  The 14.4 would be when bike is running.

Yep... and then he surmised that because it was not showing the "usual" 14V, that the battery was weaker than normal and that could be why it didn't start.  I was letting him know (and others who might read it later) that it is not correct.  Because the display is labeled "Battery", most people incorrectly believe it is showing always battery voltage.  Really, it should be labeled "Alternator" or "Charging" or "Electrical" when the bike is running (and "Battery" when it is not running).

[maxtog]

i check battery voltages with a multimeter every month (after shutting off engine for 6-8 hours), showed voltages above 12.7v.
dash showed 12v+ when bike is switched on (but before engine is started). cleaned up all the battery connections, multiple times.
but yet, the engine had a hard time starting. loads of hesitation when starting, and there was a few times that the engine just stopped dead before turning again.
replaced the battery, and everything is working perfectly.

i think a battery load tester would be more accurate in telling you the state of the battery.

The problem is that batteries can fail and still show a 12.x V surface charge.  Sometimes that voltage can remain even with a smaller load (like the few amps the dash and tail-lamp place).  But the second a large load is placed on the battery (like the starter), it can't deliver the current and the voltage crashes.  This is why the only way to really know if a battery is good or bad is to place a large load on it while measuring current and voltage.  This is what they do with those battery testers at shops- the machines contain a huge resistor that can dissipate 100AMPS or more.   You can get a small version for surprisingly cheap now.  Check this out ($25, small, and great ratings):

http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0

[bob h]

When a battery shows good voltage when not loaded, but immediately drops when loaded, it's usually because the battery has an internal fracture in the links between the cells.  The fracture "heals" under light load, but reopens immediately when loaded.

Typically this happens at the weld between adjacent cells.

Only fix is a new battery.

[Eupher]

Yep... and then he surmised that because it was not showing the "usual" 14V, that the battery was weaker than normal and that could be why it didn't start.  I was letting him know (and others who might read it later) that it is not correct.  Because the display is labeled "Battery", most people incorrectly believe it is showing always battery voltage.  Really, it should be labeled "Alternator" or "Charging" or "Electrical" when the bike is running (and "Battery" when it is not running).

I understood your point and concur/understand the difference. At the same time, a 12V battery is what it is and it's a little surprising to me that the starter motor draws so much to turn that monster motor over, but hey, I guess I'll just have to get used to the idea that the battery is just gonna get chewed up molto primo.

Yeah, it would be helpful if the display would read "Alternator" or "Battery" but isn't that why B.F.D. is around, to provide magic farkles that take care of that kinda thing? 

[Eupher]

When a battery shows good voltage when not loaded, but immediately drops when loaded, it's usually because the battery has an internal fracture in the links between the cells.  The fracture "heals" under light load, but reopens immediately when loaded.

Typically this happens at the weld between adjacent cells.

Only fix is a new battery.

Very useful information. Thank you.

[kzz1king]

Yep, and it can happen to a new battery too

When a battery shows good voltage when not loaded, but immediately drops when loaded, it's usually because the battery has an internal fracture in the links between the cells.  The fracture "heals" under light load, but reopens immediately when loaded.

Typically this happens at the weld between adjacent cells.

Only fix is a new battery.

[Gscott]

Maxtog or any one else don't you think hitting a less than 20 amp M/C battery with a 100 amp tester would kill the battery instantly ?

[VirginiaJim]

I think that's something that needs to be checked out with the manufacturer of the load tester to be sure.  I see comments using it on lawn mowers.  Those batteries are pretty small.

[Conrad]

I don't know how to operate those load testers but don't they have different load settings for differently rated batteries?

[maxtog]

Maxtog or any one else don't you think hitting a less than 20 amp M/C battery with a 100 amp tester would kill the battery instantly ?

I think you are confusing the capacity of the battery with the maximum draw.  I don't know what the inrush current would be on a motorcycle starter for an engine this size, but it is probably at least 100 amps.  Inrush is just a very short time (fractions of a second), but the starter will still pull a lot power for the duration it is spinning.  It is a huge pull on the battery.

Keep in mind that although the Concours is a motorcycle, it has a big engine- it wasn't that long ago when cars had engines around the same size (1.5 liter Civic, for example).  The battery is smaller mostly because there are less electrical accessories than a similar sized car, but the power to crank the engine would likely be very similar.

[Gscott]

Conrad I have one like this for many years now you flip the switch it loads the battery no adjustments . have never tested M/C battery with this but I do know car and truck type batteries will make the metal case very warm in just a few seconds.

[Conrad]

Thanks G.

[Eupher]

Battery came in; it's installed, and the bike fired up right away.

Not sure I like this saddle, however...

[maxtog]

Battery came in; it's installed, and the bike fired up right away.

BAM!