IF and that's a big IF - the above advise doesn't solve your problem, look at the Kick Stand switch and the Tip-Over switch.
IF those are fine then I would take apart the emergency stop switch just to make sure it's fine too. IF no-go (I know a lot of ifs') then have the
battery load tested OR just get a new one.
Good luck and let us know when you get it started.
Just out of curiosity - You said YOU have 600 miles on the bike - How many miles total are on the bike?
600 miles total - I bought the bike 6 weeks ago with 1 mile on the odometer. (Yeah, I know, not a lot of riding so far -- I'm workin' on it!)
I've ordered a new battery because from the get-go, I suspected that it was a battery issue. It had been wheezing a bit and as the bike literally sat in a stealership for 3 years waiting for me to come along and buy it, the battery languished as well. Batteries - most of 'em anyway - don't last as long as they once did. And yeah, when I lived in colder climes, I took the battery out and put it on a trickle charger over the winter. Even still, I could get only 4, maybe 5 years out of a battery before it went belly up.
The new battery that's on the way seems to be a bit beefier with 220 CCA. Those that I looked at (short of getting into $150-250 range, which is waaaaaay too much for me to spend on a battery) went 200 to 220. I paid $67 at batterystuff.com. Just waiting on Mr. Postman now....
In the meantime when I can find an hour spare time (I get home from work when it's dark and I don't have a garage), I'll take the old battery out and clean out the terminals as previously suggested. My Dad taught me that kinda stuff years ago anyway, but it doesn't hurt to hear it again.