Author Topic: UPDATE: Leaking Final Drive :( (Read 23944 times)

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #20 on:** October 24, 2014, 05:37:29 AM »

Shouldn't be any thought about it. You've got the extended warranty. It should be covered completely with no questions.

jwolffie · « **Reply #21 on:** October 25, 2014, 11:12:11 AM »

After the repair is done remove the large c clip and take the plate off of the inside of the rear rim where the rubber cushions are. The wheel will capture and store some of the lube and it will slowly leak out more gear lube onto the rim. The dealer didn't do that so when I went back with a leak after they resealed it Kawasaki had them give me a new differential to cure the leak because it is still under warranty. It still had a leak after the new differential was installed so I pulled the wheel myself and found about 2 ounces of oil in the rear wheel, I cleaned it out and problem solved. I hate going to the dealer! It also took them 3 trips to the dealer to program in new passive FOB's, they let me do it myself and show them how to do it on the third trip in so I got that done for free. They should have paid me to do it.

CigarSki® · « **Reply #22 on:** November 08, 2014, 09:15:40 AM »

UPDATE.

Got the bike back today, and, I have an oil free wheel and tire. Glad that I got the extended warranty.

Part replaced:

92033-1074, Snap Ring
92046-1169, Needle Bearing
92049-1025, Oil Seal
92049-1280, Oil Seal
92055-3771, O-Ring

Smaller inner seal and larger outer seal replaced. Dealer stated that it was the larger of the two that was leaking, but replaced both.

maxtog · « **Reply #23 on:** November 08, 2014, 10:47:22 AM »

Quote from: CigarSki® on November 08, 2014, 09:15:40 AM

Smaller inner seal and larger outer seal replaced. Dealer stated that it was the larger of the two that was leaking, but replaced both.

Yeah, it would be crazy to have it all apart and not replace an old rubber seal.

digger · « **Reply #24 on:** November 08, 2014, 05:56:36 PM »

On the BMW sites they'd be screaming, "ANOTHER FINAL DRIVE FAILURE."

B.D.F. · « **Reply #25 on:** November 08, 2014, 08:34:10 PM »

Well, a couple of random thoughts about that.

1) this is not a drive failure, it is a leak. When mine developed the same leak some years ago, I taped a paper towel 'band' around the joint and kept riding until the dealer had the parts and was able to get the bike in for repair. They literally changed the seals and bearing while I waited. This is quite different than the BMW drives failing mechanically and stopping the bike from being ridden.

2) KiPass weeds out the 'faint of heart' long before a final drive leak. Wayne (Cigarski) has been around long enough to be tough and not a hand- wringing 'Mary Jane Tinklepants'. He got it fixed and moved forward with the rest of his life.

3) Japanese motorcycle owners tend to be much more realistic than BMW owners. I say that as a member- in- good- standing of a BMW group because I have found it to be true. Japanese bike riders simply do not use or look for any Kool Aid and <more or less> accept the world as it is. Again, look at Wayne: he was not ridiculously emotional about this, got it fixed under warranty and will move forward.

4) So far Kawasaki final drives simply leak; they do not seize or catch on fire. That really helps owners / riders deal with the issue in a calmer manner.

All with tongue firmly in cheek of course.

Brian

Quote from: digger on November 08, 2014, 05:56:36 PM

On the BMW sites they'd be screaming, "ANOTHER FINAL DRIVE FAILURE."

CigarSki® · « **Reply #26 on:** November 09, 2014, 01:22:19 PM »

LOL!

As a bonus, they did a pretty decent job of cleaning that nasty looking rear wheel. Winter salt has not been kind to it.

dolomoto · « **Reply #27 on:** January 20, 2015, 04:22:36 PM »

Where is the leaking oil from? Is it the final drive itself (the reservoir that is slotted and requires a special tool, or a quarter held by a pair of pliers)?

My FD was full (I changed it anyway).

AlbertaDoug · « **Reply #28 on:** January 21, 2015, 06:09:40 AM »

One more example of the exchange on our monies, you use a quarter and I have to use a twonie .

stevewfl · « **Reply #29 on:** January 21, 2015, 06:39:04 AM »

Quote from: Rhino on October 22, 2014, 01:55:03 PM

Maybe use this? http://www.revzilla.com/product/motion-pro-bearing-remover-set

As mentioned here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17311.msg211961#msg211961

^^^that product rocks!!!

CigarSki® · « **Reply #30 on:** January 21, 2015, 02:51:57 PM »

Dolomoto.

The dealer said that the larger of the two seals was leaking, but replaced both.

ruffride · « **Reply #31 on:** February 02, 2015, 04:48:14 PM »

Hi all,
Sorry if I missed a post that covers this. Bike has 340 miles on it. Bought new with 3. I am breaking it in out on country roads and I notice this on my Back rim. It seems like the final drive is seeping. Is this normal for these bikes? Thanks for the help.

maxtog · « **Reply #32 on:** February 02, 2015, 05:20:42 PM »

Quote from: ruffride on February 02, 2015, 04:48:14 PM

Hi all,
Sorry if I missed a post that covers this. Bike has 340 miles on it. Bought new with 3. I am breaking it in out on country roads and I notice this on my Back rim. It seems like the final drive is seeping. Is this normal for these bikes? Thanks for the help.

No, it is not normal. And certainly extremely rare when new. Mine has never leaked. They will leak when they are overfilled, however.... and if the dealer improperly overfilled it, then that would explain it. You can either check and adjust the level yourself, or take it back to the dealer (which is what I would do) and have them fix it under warranty.

elp_jc · « **Reply #33 on:** February 02, 2015, 05:24:59 PM »

Quote from: ruffride on February 02, 2015, 04:48:14 PM

It seems like the final drive is seeping. Is this normal for these bikes?

My new 2015 also had a greasy rear wheel. Not as bad as yours, but only rode it home for 35 miles. It could very well be leftover from assembly, or dealer spilled fluid and didn't clean up. You can't really overfill it on this bike... unless you do it on purpose, since fluid leaks out of the hole. I'm not going to worry about it for now. Just clean the wheel, check that fluid level is fine, change the FD oil when you change the engine oil, and keep an eye on fluid level at the SAME EXACT spot (on centerstand) if you keep seeing that. If fluid drops, then you'd have a leaky seal for sure. But my guess is our seals will be just fine. Need to research which fluid to use; I want a fully-synthetic one, since there's very little of it in there. And will change it at every oil change (cheap insurance). Hope this helps.

gPink · « **Reply #34 on:** February 02, 2015, 05:39:50 PM »

The final drive is easily overfilled if you rotate the wheel as you're filling.

maxtog · « **Reply #35 on:** February 02, 2015, 05:40:00 PM »

Quote from: elp_jc on February 02, 2015, 05:24:59 PM

You can't really overfill it on this bike... unless you do it on purpose, since fluid leaks out of the hole.

It can be overfilled, but it is not terribly easy since it is generally designed not to be

If the bike is not level- that would be the major cause. Of course, if you were to do it on the side stand, it would be underfilled, so it would be mostly only an issue if it were on a center stand or other centering stand but yet the ground it is on was not level. You can also turn the wheel while filling, which is another no-no, because the thick "oil" will cling to the rotating parts, causing an overfill condition. Or if you spin the wheel BEFORE filling and have not given it adequate time for the oil to settle.

elp_jc · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2015, 10:53:27 PM »

It is VERY clearly spelled in the manual NOT to rotate the rear wheel while filling. That's why I said the only way to overfill (or underfill) the final drive is on purpose. Or if you just don't know what you're doing. Having said that, once a seal leaks, there's no going back; it needs to be replaced. My point is there's no need to jump to conclusions right away if the FD wasn't overfilled; just clean the wheel, check fluid level, and keep watching both. No harm at all. I wouldn't want a dealer taking my brand new bike apart without being sure it needs to. At any rate, my final drive is not overfilled, so I'm not worried about a seal issue at the moment. But the fluid looks like molasses, so will definitely replace it at the first oil change. Have a good one.

connie14boy · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2015, 11:17:04 PM »

Quote from: elp_jc on February 02, 2015, 05:24:59 PM

My new 2015 also had a greasy rear wheel. Not as bad as yours, but only rode it home for 35 miles. It could very well be leftover from assembly, or dealer spilled fluid and didn't clean up. You can't really overfill it on this bike... unless you do it on purpose, since fluid leaks out of the hole. I'm not going to worry about it for now. Just clean the wheel, check that fluid level is fine, change the FD oil when you change the engine oil, and keep an eye on fluid level at the SAME EXACT spot (on centerstand) if you keep seeing that. If fluid drops, then you'd have a leaky seal for sure. But my guess is our seals will be just fine. Need to research which fluid to use; I want a fully-synthetic one, since there's very little of it in there. And will change it at every oil change (cheap insurance). Hope this helps.

Changing the final drive fluid every 5,000 miles is way overkill IMHO once the initial change is done at 600 miles. I do mine every 10,000 with synthetic Valvoline. When filling on center stand, make sure not to fill to the top of bolt threads- leave a little below and it will never leak.

Conrad · « **Reply #38 on:** February 03, 2015, 04:58:05 AM »

Quote from: connie14boy on February 02, 2015, 11:17:04 PM

Changing the final drive fluid every 5,000 miles is way overkill IMHO once the initial change is done at 600 miles. I do mine every 10,000 with synthetic Valvoline. When filling on center stand, make sure not to fill to the top of bolt threads- leave a little below and it will never leak.

It may or may not need changing at every engine oil change but it's SO easy to change and it doesn't take much gear oil to fill it up, why not do it? You have to do something, besides drinking a beer, while you wait for the engine oil to drain right?

AlbertaDoug · « **Reply #39 on:** February 03, 2015, 05:53:56 AM »

Quote from: Conrad on February 03, 2015, 04:58:05 AM

It may or may not need changing at every engine oil change but it's SO easy to change and it doesn't take much gear oil to fill it up, why not do it? You have to do something, besides drinking a beer, while you wait for the engine oil to drain right?

+1

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Author Topic: UPDATE: Leaking Final Drive :( (Read 23944 times)

AlbertaDoug

elp_jc

elp_jc

AlbertaDoug