UPDATE: Leaking Final Drive :(

[CigarSki®]

 Currently 35k miles on the bike. I suppose that all mechanical assemblies will eventually require some manner of repair.

Was out for a ride on Sunday and noticed some oil on the rear wheel. It was just a few drops, but definitely gear oil. At the end of the ride, the wheel was completely streaked with oil.

I drained and filled about 2K miles ago. I do it every oil change and am positive that it was not over filled. Did a ride to West Virginia a few weeks back, 1350 miles with no sign of a leak.

Appt. made with the local dealer to have it checked out.  The winter riding season is about to begin, need to get back on the road. Luckily my extended warranty still has a couple of years left.

[Rembrant]

Yup, BTDT. Had a leaky rear diff on my 2008 C14.
Turned out to be the smaller inner seal. No warranty, so I changed it myself and it was fine afterwards.
It's a bit of a bear to get into and service, but if you have warranty, then it's a non-issue.

Oh...mine failed while on a trip, and I rode the bike another 2500 miles or so with the rear diff leaking and spraying all over the back wheel...lol.
If you're not livin' on the edge, you're just takin' up space, right??...lol.

Rem

[gPink]

Were you losing enough you had to refill often?

[Rembrant]

Were you losing enough you had to refill often?

No...I had to top it up a couple times, but not that much. I checked it every night, and tried to keep the wheel clean, etc.
However, it doesn't take very much to make an awful mess. My rear rim was covered, as was half the tire, the rear fender, and the back half of the left side case. With the bike on the side stand, it would drip and leave a spot about the side of a quarter or so over night.

Rem

[B.D.F.]

Yeah, that happens now and then on this model. No big deal and it is most probably the inner seal like Rem had fail. You might want to ask the dealer to order an inner bearing though- the seal is behind the bearing and removing the bearing generally damages them; better to have both parts on hand when doing this job IMO.

Brian

Currently 35k miles on the bike. I suppose that all mechanical assemblies will eventually require some manner of repair.

Was out for a ride on Sunday and noticed some oil on the rear wheel. It was just a few drops, but definitely gear oil. At the end of the ride, the wheel was completely streaked with oil.

I drained and filled about 2K miles ago. I do it every oil change and am positive that it was not over filled. Did a ride to West Virginia a few weeks back, 1350 miles with no sign of a leak.

Appt. made with the local dealer to have it checked out.  The winter riding season is about to begin, need to get back on the road. Luckily my extended warranty still has a couple of years left.

[jwh20]

Yeah, that happens now and then on this model. No big deal and it is most probably the inner seal like Rem had fail. You might want to ask the dealer to order an inner bearing though- the seal is behind the bearing and removing the bearing generally damages them; better to have both parts on hand when doing this job IMO.

Brian

Yes, and the Service Manual says the needle bearings MUST be replaced when you service the rear drive.  Make sure they do it right.

[Rembrant]

Yup...I ruined the bearing in mine while removing it...

I'm not sure how you'd get it out without damaging it...unless you took the final drive completely off the bike and had some fancy fitted attachments for a hydraulic press. It's been a few years since I did it, but I do recall that bearing being a bugger to remove.

I also changed the large outer lip seal (the one closest to the spline drive), it's not difficult at all.

Rem

[jwh20]

Yup...I ruined the bearing in mine while removing it...

I'm not sure how you'd get it out without damaging it...unless you took the final drive completely off the bike and had some fancy fitted attachments for a hydraulic press. It's been a few years since I did it, but I do recall that bearing being a bugger to remove.

I also changed the large outer lip seal (the one closest to the spline drive), it's not difficult at all.

Rem

Did you use the "hot oil bath" method as mentioned in the service manual or something else?

[Rembrant]

Did you use the "hot oil bath" method as mentioned in the service manual or something else?

I had the service manual for that bike, but to be honest I don't recall looking at the procedure at the time.

I removed the bearing using a couple different brass drifts. You have to access it from the outside (left hand side of the bike), and tap it out towards the wheel side. I did it with the final drive still on the bike, but with the bike on a lift. It takes a while, tapping the bearing repeatedly around it's perimeter.

I left for a two week 8500 mile trip a week later, and rode the bike for two more seasons and never had a problem again.

Leave it to me to go and do something and find out later that there's actually a "procedure" for doing it...lol.

Rem

[jwh20]

I figured the seal is pressed in and is supposed to be really tight.  But I suspect their main concern is damaging the housing.

[Rembrant]

I figured the seal is pressed in and is supposed to be really tight.  But I suspect their main concern is damaging the housing.

Yup, they're just standard lip seals, with a very light press fit. Lip seal fits are usually too tight to install by hand, but soft as butter with a rubber mallet to "persuade" them into place.
Yes, I'm sure damaging the housing would be a concern, but the problem is that the bearing is installed in what is almost considered to be a blind hole. It's difficult to access from the outside. If it was easy to reach, you could make a bearing press very easily with a length of threaded rod and a couple sockets/sleeves.

Rem

[B.D.F.]

Yeah, you should have seen the mechanics and service manager's faces when they read that one. Sort of like a bad joke: like most shops (if any?) have an oil bath, heated to what, 350F or something, large enough to take a C-14 final drive, just lying around. Oh yeah, a pretty common thing to have at a motorcycle shop.    Sometimes I think the manual makes more sense when we simply cannot read it at all.... :-)

So now, back to reality: the way to pull the larger seal is by using Sheet Rock screws. A gentle tap on the screw, with the tip right in the center of the sheet metal "U" that mounts (Easy Boys!) the lip seal and a few turns and the screws will grab onto the seal body. Then a small block of wood on the drive and something to pry on the head of the screw and the seal pops right out.

But it is not usually the outer seal that leaks, it is the inner one.

And the bearing, yeah, the normal way is to drive it out from the other side (the outside) with a drift. It ain't pretty, and it ain't fast, and the user MUST be careful but it works. Hard on the bearing though, which is why a new one is recommended.

Brian

Did you use the "hot oil bath" method as mentioned in the service manual or something else?

[Rembrant]

Sort of like a bad joke: like most shops (if any?) have an oil bath, heated to what, 350F or something, large enough to take a C-14 final drive, just lying around. Oh yeah, a pretty common thing to have at a motorcycle shop.    Sometimes I think the manual makes more sense when we simply cannot read it at all.... :-)

You could always go to a fast food restaurant...but you'd have to actually go inside, and not use the drive-thru.

If you timed it right, you could get lunch while you're there, right?

C14 Final Drive flavored fries?....Or clams for you eh BDF?...lol.

Rem

[B.D.F.]

Yes but all the customers afterward would be saying "These fries taste like.... I don' t know, maybe rear- end?"

Brian

You could always go to a fast food restaurant...but you'd have to actually go inside, and not use the drive-thru.

If you timed it right, you could get lunch while you're there, right?

C14 Final Drive flavored fries?....Or clams for you eh BDF?...lol.

Rem

[Rhino]

Maybe use this? http://www.revzilla.com/product/motion-pro-bearing-remover-set

As mentioned here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17311.msg211961#msg211961

[VirginiaJim]

If it's under any kind of warranty, then let the dealer handle it.

[CigarSki®]

That's what I'll be doing. The dealer can have it  for a bit.

[maxtog]

That's what I'll be doing. The dealer can have it  for a bit.

That would certainly be my vote too, if it were happening to me (plus, I plan on keeping a warranty as long as they will continue to renew).  But it is nice to know what is involved and making sure they get the needed parts BEFORE you leave the bike stuck there.

[Rembrant]

Maybe use this? http://www.revzilla.com/product/motion-pro-bearing-remover-set

As mentioned here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17311.msg211961#msg211961

That type of puller will not work on needle bearings, but they are good for bearings with an inner race that you cannot get "behind" to drive out, like wheel bearings.

If you try to use a blind hole bearing puller on a needle bearing it will very quickly make the job aggravatingly worse. I've tried them on difficult to remove swingarm pivot bearings, and all the puller does is rip all the needles out and leave you with a thin outer race...which is much more difficult to remove than the complete bearing.

Rem

[CigarSki®]

Rode to the dealer his afternoon, the leak got worse on the way there. Tire and wheel got messy. On a good note, the Kawasaki Rep. will be there to look at another bike and they are going to throw mine into the fray. Might get a quicker warranty service authorization.