Do you know how hard it is to get to the plugs and wires?You have to remove the tupperware to get to the plugs, so I guess, go ahead and paint.
Brian said he was going to try it, but I don't remember ever seeing a report. I tried it and it did drop the idle down a little, but I never had any problems per se, before the recalibration.
Then you probably wont notice a difference. This seems to only help bikes that have a really choppy or hesitant throttle.
That said, It's mechanical and electronic components working together. In a perfect wprld, these would be completely set from the factory, but there's no exact number. Some throttles will be at .68V, some may be at .70V at idle. I ASSUME (read; Ass-u-me) that at the factory they program the ECU to read .68V (or whatever the actual number is) as closed/ Idle, and if there's any variance from that, thats where the issues will start. But some bikes naturally are exactly dead on... I could be COMPLETELY wrong on that tho... and Probably am.
Well, I guess if everyone is doing it, I might as well too..
There is another gentleman out there who has O2 sensors on his bike and he (I do not.... yet) and he would the the ideal candidate to test out this idea as he can produce data as a result. If the throttle really does recalibrate, he should note the mixture changes immediately. Further, he should be able to make them both more lean and then more rich at will simply by hedging the throttle position information in the ECU one way and then the other. But I will not call him out on this.... :-)
Brian
bump.
After analysing the theory behind it, I gave a try to this procedure. Sure enough, I noticed a few things:
- idle went down by about 150 rpm. I like it at 1150 and it went down to 1000. Same temperature, etc. It just went down.
- hesitation is gone. Period. I have been fighting this phenomenon since day 1 and been nothing but frustrated. When I first got the bike I was amazed at how tame it was, but after a while I wanted a 1352 cc engine (which I paid for), not a 600 cc. So flies out, PCV in. Power and torque were restored, specially under 4000 rpm, but the hesitation (coughing) continued. That off-on throttle counter-explosion that bothered me every single time. Next I added a throttle tamer. Better, but absolutely still there. It just got easier to avoid it by being gentle, but I don't like being gentle when I'm chasing (or, more often than not, being chased by) my friends in their bikes. Now it's solved. I just can't get her to do it. It's great.
- I have to sell this bike. I will kill myself. I'm so happy with how the engine responds, specially when I see small gaps in traffic that I usually gave up on because of the stupid hesitation. Now I just take them, because the bikes shoots forward every time I touch the gas. It's exhilarating.
Me happy.
Serious question, what is the other side saying in regards this new, apparently effective, technique?
Serious question, what is the other side saying in regards this new, apparently effective, technique?
If you hook me up with some clam chowdah, then I'll do some testing for ya...lol.
Another thing to consider that I don't think has been mentioned. If you incorrectly calibrated a TPS....like what was done earlier, so that 25% of throttle was actually set to zero, and 100% was still 100%, you would effectively create a very quick turn throttle...I'm not going to ge my protractor out....lol, but lets say it would go from being a 1/4 turn throttle to being a 1/5 turn throttle, and I didn't see that in the video....
Just something to ponder eh?...
Rem...
Over here thinkin' and stuff
Yeah, what Jim said.... who is, or who are the 'other side'? Did we pick teams or something?
I thought it was just people talking about how a mechanism might or might not work on a C-14. ??
Brian
Brian is correct.. Our brother site in the UK has picked up on this as well. Bully for them!
Actually, the TPS numbers are set in the ECU, and the TPS is set mechanically on the side of the throttlebodies. The TPS actually has nothing to do with the idle of the engine. The idle is set by the screw adjuster that sets where the throttle plates stop. The ECU then controls the amount of fuel for the idle speed using the IAP map (Idle Air Pressure). Unlike the TPS fuel maps, the IAP map is controlled by RPM and pressure differential across the throttle plates. So, when you adjust the idle cable/screw, you're adjusting the throttle plates, which changes the air flow across them....thus changing the pressure differential.
This is what is taking place from closed throttle to approximately 10% throttle, so the TPS is not utilized until the throttle is twisted 10% open.
See, the fuel mapping in these ECU's is a little more crude than most people realize. The changes the ECU can make are not infinite. The ECU only adjusts TPS fueling approximately every 7% of throttle rotation. This is why there is an IAP map in the first place to control the idle. If the ECU tried to use the TPS map to control idle, it would be far too crude, and a quarter turn on the adjuster might not do anything....a full turn on the adjuster might not do anything.
So, if that isn't too confusing, it's easy to see why the closed throttle TPS voltage variances are really irrelevant with regards to idle. As I said earlier...several factors are going to effect that voltage...throttle cables, throttle plate linkages/pivots, throttlebody cleanliness, etc. When I checked mine, several times, the closed throttle TPS voltage varied between .66v and .69v, and it made no changes in the idle. As I said above, the ECU doesn't care what that voltage is until the throttle is 10% open or more.
And besides, 0.03v changes in TPS voltages aren't really going to change anything, because the ECU is looking for bigger differences.
Clear as mud?...lol,
Rem
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EDIT: I love this thread and all the information being tossed around... I'm learning a ton and it's making me really think.
Which other side?I shoulda said "Sides", as in COG or other forums.
I shoulda said "Sides", as in COG or other forums.
No credit required, I have all I need in knowing what I know. I got so much help from this forum (old time one, and current) I like knowing I gave something new and unique back and it was just on a hunch.
Like Brian and others, I am curious as to how this isn't part of any manual. Maybe I should rush out and get a patent? JK of course.