Author Topic: New Owner. Need to do all maintenance (Read 5914 times)

theAmazingKickstand · « **on:** June 24, 2013, 09:48:25 PM »

Hey All, this is my first post.

I bought a 2008 ABS Concours with 17k miles and would like to change all the fluids and adjust the valves asap. I've adjusted shim valves before but not on this bike. Mine has the smoke at start up but everything else seems to be perfect about it. I don't know if the smoke is from a gasket or O-ring and want to just replace everything.
Can someone give me a list of all the things I'd possible need to adjust the valves in one weekend?
Gaskets,
O-rings,
shims ( I was going to order a boxed set)
Spark plugs,
What else?

Also I just tried opening the filler plug to the final drive with no success. Any idea?
Let me know if you think of anything I've missed. This is my daily commuter so I'd like to get it done in one weekend.....and most shops will be closed on Sunday.

Thanks!!!

gPink · « **Reply #1 on:** June 25, 2013, 04:21:59 AM »

Welcome to the forum. On your list of things you need I might suggest a service manual. It's going to take a weekend of reading to learn what you need to remove just to get to the valve train.

maxtog · « **Reply #2 on:** June 25, 2013, 05:28:16 AM »

Quote from: theAmazingKickstand on June 24, 2013, 09:48:25 PM

Hey All, this is my first post.

Welcome!!

Yep- I would order a service manual from your dealer or Ron Ayers, ASAP

udoggie · « **Reply #3 on:** June 25, 2013, 07:45:19 AM »

I'd also highly recommend Fred's video set.

http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html

-Jeff

jonathan · « **Reply #4 on:** June 25, 2013, 08:11:31 AM »

..and a couple of extra days off to make it a long weekend.

theAmazingKickstand · « **Reply #5 on:** June 25, 2013, 10:31:32 AM »

So what makes this valve adjustment so difficult? On my last bike I had to remove the engine. It took me an honest 6 hours start to finish but there was minimal bodywork.
Does anyone have part numbers for all the gaskets, rings, seals, parts, I'll need to replace? Any special tools I might not own?

Off topic, do you all hear a gear whine at low rpm in first gear? Normal?

Thank you!!

jonathan · « **Reply #6 on:** June 25, 2013, 03:07:56 PM »

Some research:

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7087.0
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10245.0
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=11996.0
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9029.0

Boomer · « **Reply #7 on:** June 26, 2013, 05:30:56 AM »

Welcome aboard,
Gear whine in 1st is normal on some bikes. Synth oil sometimes fixes that.
Getting to the valves is the hardest part.
They are shim under bucket so changing them requires cam removal and having the right sized shim to replace them with.
Other than that, if you've done this type before, no need to remove the motor unless you have Yeti hands.
That said, she shouldn't smoke when started. Some steam (white) will come out but shouldn't burn any oil at all at 17k miles.

Getting the Final Drive Oil filler cap off is a PITA.
I use a 1/2" drive screwdriver socket I have similar to this with an Impact Driver to loosen it.

Either that or else use some washers held together with Mole Grips (Vise Grips?)

Do not rotate the wheel when filling as that leads to overfilling and blowing seals.

RideBellChain · « **Reply #8 on:** June 26, 2013, 11:29:06 AM »

Quote from: udoggie on June 25, 2013, 07:45:19 AM

I'd also highly recommend Fred's video set.

http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html

-Jeff

+1 for sure. Priceless, especially when it comes to that Japanese 3D puzzle we call "fairings".

Welcome, and congrats - I'm sure you're gonna love your new bike!

Shoe · « **Reply #9 on:** June 26, 2013, 11:48:27 AM »

Welcome.

I admire your hutzpah. I've done the valve check before but it turned out that I didn't have the right size shims.
Sometimes you can swap a few shims. You won't know until you get in there and start measuring. I wouldn't attempt the job unless
I had Fred's video and a manual.

Good Luck.

theAmazingKickstand · « **Reply #10 on:** June 26, 2013, 11:55:22 AM »

Thanks All.
I do love it indeed. By smoke, I mean the oil burn off the headers.
I managed to get the final drive filler plug off but really mangled it. I can get it off again but would rather replace since it looks very out of place now.

I saw the pic here with all body work on the ground. Doesn't seem that bad really. I'm mostly concerned with having all of the parts I need to replace in front of me before I start.
Does anyone have a link to a free PDF repair manual or a cheap hard copy book for sale?
Is it a proven fact that all Councurs sold all over the world are the same mechanically and only CA require 15k valve intervals (emissions??) while every other owners manual states 25k miles? Are the CA models set up to have a leaner burn causing the valves to stretch quicker?

jonathan · « **Reply #11 on:** June 26, 2013, 02:22:35 PM »

Quote from: theAmazingKickstand on June 26, 2013, 11:55:22 AM

Are the CA models set up to have a leaner burn causing the valves to stretch quicker?

No, all bikes are configured the same, its just that Kawasaki is only willing to state that the emissions will remain within specs if you observe these maintenance intervals. Its more of a CYA than anything. I personally don't mind if my emissions exceed design specs, so I will get my valves checked later.

PH14 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 26, 2013, 02:35:46 PM »

Quote from: theAmazingKickstand on June 26, 2013, 11:55:22 AM

Thanks All.
I do love it indeed. By smoke, I mean the oil burn off the headers.
I managed to get the final drive filler plug off but really mangled it. I can get it off again but would rather replace since it looks very out of place now.

I saw the pic here with all body work on the ground. Doesn't seem that bad really. I'm mostly concerned with having all of the parts I need to replace in front of me before I start.
Does anyone have a link to a free PDF repair manual or a cheap hard copy book for sale?
Is it a proven fact that all Councurs sold all over the world are the same mechanically and only CA require 15k valve intervals (emissions??) while every other owners manual states 25k miles? Are the CA models set up to have a leaner burn causing the valves to stretch quicker?

The US spec is 15k and everywhere else it is 25k.

maxtog · « **Reply #13 on:** June 26, 2013, 04:15:14 PM »

Quote from: theAmazingKickstand on June 26, 2013, 11:55:22 AM

Does anyone have a link to a free PDF repair manual or a cheap hard copy book for sale?

If you mean the factory manual, that would be illegal. Contact your dealer or Ron Ayers to be legit.

Quote

Is it a proven fact that all Councurs sold all over the world are the same mechanically and only CA require 15k valve intervals (emissions??) while every other owners manual states 25k miles? Are the CA models set up to have a leaner burn causing the valves to stretch quicker?

I believe they are all identical. The issue has been addressed many times on the forums and the conclusion has been that the USA spec for 15K valve adjustments is insanely too low. ESPECIALLY for a modern bucket over shim design and when you compare it to all the other country specs. Now WHY Kawasaki specified it so much lower in the USA- who knows. Perhaps just a money grab for the dealers.

Richard. Wales UK · « **Reply #14 on:** June 26, 2013, 05:16:47 PM »

Quote from: theAmazingKickstand on June 26, 2013, 11:55:22 AM

Does anyone have a link to a free PDF repair manual or a cheap hard copy book for sale?

Workshop manual in post 21 here

(link removed) Note: We don't link here to unofficial manuals. Jim

Richard

Shoe · « **Reply #15 on:** June 26, 2013, 06:18:09 PM »

Quote from: theAmazingKickstand on June 25, 2013, 10:31:32 AM

So what makes this valve adjustment so difficult? On my last bike I had to remove the engine..............

C14 is is the opposite of that. You remove the bike and keep the engine.

The hardest part for me was balancing the throttle bodies. From what you describe the engine sounds normal.

Gsun · « **Reply #16 on:** June 26, 2013, 06:42:09 PM »

You can't just buy a shim kit. You have to measure the existing shims to see what you need to change. You may need several of the same size. You may be able to swap shims around and not have to buy so many. You may not need any. If you start Friday night you could conceivably get what you need on Saturday. The leakage may be from the valve cover gasket but you need to get to the cover to see. If it's not pinched, you could probably clean it up and use it again. Of course the manual says to replace it.

gPink · « **Reply #17 on:** June 26, 2013, 07:21:17 PM »

Leak could also be cam sensor.

dolomoto · « **Reply #18 on:** June 26, 2013, 07:37:01 PM »

Don't sweat the valve "inspection". I doubt you'll find many valves out of spec. Maybe your valve cover gasket is not seated correctly and causing the smoke? If I was to try to reseat my valve cover gasket, I'd do a valve inspection. Keep in mind, inspection and adjustment are different procedures....in that an inspection is not as involved as the adjustment (which is easy).

If you do a valve adjustment, take your time. Read the manual. Watch the videos if able. Use lots of masking tape to mark what came off where...or just lay stuff out in the order it came off.

theAmazingKickstand · « **Reply #19 on:** June 26, 2013, 10:39:43 PM »

Thank you all. ....especially for the repair manual link. I changed the drive fluid yesterday and oil today. All Amsoil synthetic. Feel much better. Still don't like riding without a valve check though.
If I go through the effort to check, I'm taking the cams off and setting them to the loose end. No point doing half the work. It's nice that the gas tank doesn't have to come off though.
The throttle bodies have to come off? That sucks.

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Author Topic: New Owner. Need to do all maintenance (Read 5914 times)