Welcome aboard,
Gear whine in 1st is normal on some bikes. Synth oil sometimes fixes that.
Getting to the valves is the hardest part.
They are shim under bucket so changing them requires cam removal and having the right sized shim to replace them with.
Other than that, if you've done this type before, no need to remove the motor unless you have Yeti hands.
That said, she shouldn't smoke when started. Some steam (white) will come out but shouldn't burn any oil at all at 17k miles.
Getting the Final Drive Oil filler cap off is a PITA.
I use a 1/2" drive screwdriver socket I have similar to this with an Impact Driver to loosen it.
Either that or else use some washers held together with Mole Grips (Vise Grips?)
Do not rotate the wheel when filling as that leads to overfilling and blowing seals.