Linked Brake Fix? Follow up

[The Pope]

Yes, that's the part, but I haven't been able to find out anything about what's on the Inside or the Fluid Flow Paths.

[jonathan]

Here's your opportunity to be a pioneer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-ZG1400-Concours-ABS-BRAKE-PRESSURE-MODULATOR-/370175348872?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56302b9088&vxp=mtr

[The Pope]

^ That's from a 2008 (Non-linked braking system). Need one from a 2011 (Linked Braking & Traction Control).

And yes, I looked earlier and all that I found were for the 08's & 09's. And yes, "IF" I had ZG's $$$, I'd gladly get 2 or 3 of them to open up and to figure out what's going on.

It apperas that there are more of the earlier ones (08/09) that are being parted out.     

[stevewfl]

^ That's from a 2008 (Non-linked braking system). Need one from a 2011 (Linked Braking & Traction Control).

And yes, I looked earlier and all that I found were for the 08's & 09's. And yes, "IF" I had ZG's $$$, I'd gladly get 2 or 3 of them to open up and to figure out what's going on.

It apperas that there are more of the earlier ones (08/09) that are being parted out.     

[ZG]

    

[RandyN]

Update
I took the bike to a local dealer and gave them a chance to ride. I knew that they would end up just saying that it's normal for it to act the way it does, but I figured it has a warranty so why not try. They pretty much towed the Kawasaki line that there's nothing wrong. As someone mentioned in an earlier post, Kawasaki doesn't want to admit a problem because they will then have to fix that problem. I have talked to Kawi USA and they still claim they know nothing of the problem. I wonder how many times they’ve been told and still try to claim they don’t know?
 
So, I went ahead and ordered the parts to try a fix on my own. I've got a brake line from a non-ABS 2010 C-14 coming from Galfer and will install it when I have the time. My only problem is how to plug the holes. Galfer is sending the bolts with the correct thread pitch but they aren't flared to properly mate with the compression fitting to then seal the pressure. I will have to have these machined with the proper taper. Does anyone reading this have a suggestion as to where I may be able to find the right bolts to plug the ABS motor block??
 
I know I will lose the rear ABS function, but I can live with that. I don't want to get into a debate on riding technique or ABS vs. non-ABS. I can always change it back if there is any problem doing this. I’ll post when I do it and let you all know what happens. Also, I’ll try to post photos. Thanks for the suggestions.

[Conrad]

It's a shame that you have to resort to this. Maybe one day Kawasaki will get a clue.

[VirginiaJim]

One could file a complaint here...

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

If you think it's more of a defect.

[RandyN]

One could file a complaint here...

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

If you think it's more of a defect.

I just did it. Only took a few minutes . I encourage anyone that has enough of an issue with this problem to do it also. I can't say it's too much of a safety issue, but it sure makes me have no confidence in what the brakes are going to surprise me with. Also makes it not very enjoyable to ride. Please speak up and call Kawasaki also.

And thanks for the link!

[northsouth]

I don't think it is mechanical. As an experiment I pulled the the fuse to the ABS motor and the brakes worked as if they were normal. As in no link, and of course no ABS. So, I think that the link is somehow controlled by electronics. To what extent I don't know, but maybe the software in the ECU has something to say about the amount of hydraulic force allowed through the valve.

After thinking about it it must be that the software controls it. There are two modes of braking balance to select from.

When you pulled the fuse, you say the warning light was flashing on the dash. Is there a way to stop this from flashing that anyone knows of? I would gladly do away with the ABS to lose this crappy linked system. Also, where is this fuse? Is it under the seat with the rest of them? Excellent bike otherwise. Then, if and when Kawasaki decides to man up and fix this crappy system, you could just re-install the fuse.

[RandyN]

The fuse is under the seat, it's the fuse box behind the tool box. The fuse I pulled is a 30 amp marked "ABS mot". Not only does a light flash on the dash the whole LCD display flashes a warning. The brakes felt like a regular system and had great stopping power. I actually like the way they perform better with no ABS, but I prefer having the insurance of having the ABS to save me if I do something stupid. I just don't want it to be so intrusive and unpredictable.

I now have the bike apart to do some other things to it and have the parts to attempt a possible "fix". I'll post it when I finish it. Found an oil leak when I took the cowlings off so it may take a while to finish everything.

Post a complaint with NHTSA . https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
 
Another discussion on COG-online http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,42446.0.html

[northsouth]

Yea, I pulled that fuse today and saw the entire display saying "Warning! you will certainly die if you don't take this bike to the nearest dealer to have it fixed!" so I put it back. It makes the entire display useless until the fuse is replaced. Hopefully there is a way to eliminate this obnoxious warning so this fuse can be removed permanently.

Good luck with your oil leak. Is it the left valve cover?

[RandyN]

Did you ride the bike and feel the difference in the brakes? I noticed a major improvement in feel when the ABS motor is disabled. I would tell anyone curious to try it for a few miles, just remember you don't have ABS to back you up in a panic situation.

The leek was right above #1 cylinder (left side) in the valve cover gasket. Dealer ordered the gaskets and should have it done in a few days.

[northsouth]

Did you ride the bike and feel the difference in the brakes? I noticed a major improvement in feel when the ABS motor is disabled. I would tell anyone curious to try it for a few miles, just remember you don't have ABS to back you up in a panic situation.

The leek was right above #1 cylinder (left side) in the valve cover gasket. Dealer ordered the gaskets and should have it done in a few days.

I did not ride it to see the difference. I can see how this would fix the problem though. Makes it a simple mechanical system like normal. Just need to find a way to stop the warning and all is well.

Sorry about your leak. Unfortunately this seems to be a common issue.

 

[twowheeladdict]

Maybe I need to do a Vulcan mind meld with Steve, but there's a lot of people complaining and and only one person saying "Yay!"

Maybe Steve is just way more awesome than me. Dunno. All I know is that I hate them and I think it's a high tech solution that had no problem to begin with.  I trail brake with the front only. Also, when sport riding I only use the front. No can do with this bike.

I also have no issues with the brakes.  I think there is a lot of mis-information regarding braking into the corners though.  I have seen many posts where guys are talking about dragging the rear brake into the corner and trying to call it trail braking.

According to the pros, trail braking is applying the brakes to cause the front suspension to compress which change the rake and trail of the bike in order to turn in quicker.

Yet, I read where folks are complaining about the front end diving.   

[pistole]

I also have no issues with the brakes.  I think there is a lot of mis-information regarding braking into the corners though

- agreed.

.

[PlaynInPeoria]

According to the pros, trail braking is applying the brakes to cause the front suspension to compress which change the rake and trail of the bike in order to turn in quicker.

For me, using the front brakes into the corner is trail braking.  Using the rear to tighten my line just a tad without making the bike change pitch (which it would if I used the front), I gots no clue what that's called, it's just a technique I learned from a magazine. 

I just rode down to Austin and back with friends for the MotoGP. On Friday before the race, we sport rode on the great roads down there, did the Lake Loop http://www.motorcycleroads.com/75/550/Texas/Hippie-Hollow-Horror.html

Then on Monday, we rode 3 Sisters,
http://www.motorcycleroads.com/75/576/Texas/Texas-Hill-Country-Twister.html
http://www.motorcycleroads.com/75/555/Texas/The-Three-Sisters-(AKA-The-Twisted-Sisters)--Ranch-Roads-335-336337a.html

We also went home via the Arkansas and Missouri twisties, OMG, I love those roads.  Missouri County Road K, between Ellington and Annapolis is my favorite road in the world.  Up and down and and left and right, billiard smooth pavement. AR SR 7 is no slouch either. And I've ridden California 36 from end to end, so I know a good road.

I rode hard, but couldn't ride like I can, because the brakes just hold me back.   The whole time, I was waiting for the system to make up its mind on what kind of braking it felt like applying.  When the OP gets this thing figured out, I'll be following his lead and dc'ing them myself.

[northsouth]

"I rode hard, but couldn't ride like I can, because the brakes just hold me back.   The whole time, I was waiting for the system to make up its mind on what kind of braking it felt like applying."


Exactly.

[twowheeladdict]

Sounds like a lot of you guys need to look up "the pace" and ride accordingly.  There is no reason "on the street" to ride faster in the straights than you do in the curves.  In some states 20 over is an automatic license suspension.  Since most of you can take the curves at 20 over, how much over are you going in the straights?

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/flashback/122_0911_the_pace_nick_ienatsch/

[Cuda]

Very good read , much too logical thou.