Nuclear LED driving lights on sale...

[C1xRider]

Arrg!  Couldn't take the peer pressure anymore, so I broke down and bought 2 more sets of these.  I'll find somewhere to put them. 

Yep, the deal is still on.

[Sinstr]

I really wanted these lights and ordered a set.  They came out of some place in India.  Bottom line is one light did not work.  I contacted the place I ordered from.  They said to take pictures of the light that did not work and send it back to India with the pictures and an explanation.  I did that on 2 Jul 2012 and have not heard a word from them since.  I have tried to contact them to no avail.  Oh well guess I just have to eat the expense.

[B.D.F.]

Usually in an international exchange there is a third party involved who handles the money transfer- PayPal, 'plastic money' (Vise, MC, etc.). If there is in this case, file a dispute with that third party and they will usually respond very quickly.

Brian

I really wanted these lights and ordered a set.  They came out of some place in India.  Bottom line is one light did not work.  I contacted the place I ordered from.  They said to take pictures of the light that did not work and send it back to India with the pictures and an explanation.  I did that on 2 Jul 2012 and have not heard a word from them since.  I have tried to contact them to no avail.  Oh well guess I just have to eat the expense.

[jalthar]

I really wanted these lights and ordered a set.  They came out of some place in India.  Bottom line is one light did not work.  I contacted the place I ordered from.  They said to take pictures of the light that did not work and send it back to India with the pictures and an explanation.  I did that on 2 Jul 2012 and have not heard a word from them since.  I have tried to contact them to no avail.  Oh well guess I just have to eat the expense.

contact Lisa Jackson at lisjackson@gmail.com    or info@24x7diy.com

[C1xRider]

I really wanted these lights and ordered a set.  They came out of some place in India.  Bottom line is one light did not work.  I contacted the place I ordered from.  They said to take pictures of the light that did not work and send it back to India with the pictures and an explanation.  I did that on 2 Jul 2012 and have not heard a word from them since.  I have tried to contact them to no avail.  Oh well guess I just have to eat the expense.

Yes, what BDF and jalthar said.

I've found them to be very responsive to questions, but haven't had a reason to test them on a failed part (warranty claim).

If they don't respond in a reasonable fashion, and they don't offer to pay the return shipping on the D.O.A. light, then I would dispute the payment with your CC company, or Paypal, which ever you used.

Also, let them know you're keeping the forums updated with their progress (and keep us updated too).

[just gone]

I got a set during this sale for my DR650 (I'm happy with the Denalis on my C14, so far), they arrived quickly
from China (not India) via express mail. I tested them and they are bright and work well but they are pole sensitive
(some LED lights have an internal bridge rectifier so you can hook them up backwards and they still work, these do not).
  I also ordered the dimmer which has yet to arrive, I emailed them and they said it shipped separately.
 I've got doubts, but I'll post here if it shows up and works.

edit 9-1-12: The dimmer showed up 8-31-12, shipped from India. It works*, comes with a remote fob which is good because there are no controls on the unit itself. The unit has memory that seems to survive during the power shut off. When the power is restored there is a full bright flash followed by the condition that was present when power was removed, be it dimmed, off, or full bright. The fob was tested at 10 feet and worked well. Most of the testing was done with only one light and the dimmer worked well. When the second unit was added in parallel it worked for a short while then quit*. I measured each LED unit at 2.7 amps so it should have been a total of 5.4 Amps that this 8 amp rated dimmer couldn't handle.(Note: this testing was done with 12v battery power only, the bike was not started)  I opened it up and found that a wire near the output transistor had un-soldered itself. I re-soldered the wire and hooked it back up and the LED lights came on at full bright and the unit wouldn't respond to the fob. In short order I could see that the output transistor was getting hot and the solder near it was molten again so I shut it down. The lights are fricking bright and I hope they'll hold up under rough road/trail conditions , but I can't  recommend the $14.50 dimmer. (since ordering, I've seen the same dimmer priced from $6.43 to $49.00)

[C1xRider]

Interesting info on the dimmer Marty, I looked at that one, but had already bought one from eBay.  I'm now making my own, so I'll keep an eye on the operational temps of the FET leads.

I finally installed a second set of these on my C14 yesterday, just to see if 2 sets were better than 1 (also have a third set, but didn't go there, yet).

I mounted the second set to the front fender bolts, using spacers and longer bolts.  The mounting seems pretty solid, and I think I'll keep them there.  You really get to see every uneven surface, and every piece of gravel on the road with these down low like that.

I went out for a little night ride around the country side last night, and quickly discovered I'll have to retrain myself when riding at night.  I found I was riding as fast as I do in the daylight, going a little too hot into corners, etc.  With both sets of these on, it really is like riding in daylight.  Maybe 12,400 lumens, plus the stock lights, will be enough. 

[B.D.F.]

Just food for thought....  Dramatically increasing the light on the ground just in front of the bike can be counterproductive. We perceive it as 'better lighting' but it is usually the other way- it throws a lot more reflected light into our eyes making it true that it is brighter in front of us but the light is coming from our surroundings much too close to be of any use. Of course forward lighting should illuminate <more or less> everything in front of the vehicle but it is actually an advantage to mute the light that hits the road, say, in the first 100 feet of the vehicle. What we really want to see is further down the road and foreground lighting hurts that in two ways; the first thing is that we are using a great quantity of our light too close to the vehicle and that light is no longer available for downrange lighting. The second problem is that because outside brightness does go up it makes our pupils close so we are even less sensitive to what is much less well lit in the distance. For example, a deer really does not show up very well at night at, say, 1,000 feet even if standing in the road. Over illuminating the paint on the road, road signs, various reflectors on the sides of the road and finally the surrounding plant life immediately in front of us makes seeing that same deer even harder, or outright impossible.

These new and very powerful LED are quite impressive and I am a big fan but so far I have not seen any decent patterns coming from them. A properly controlled beam of HID or even tungsten light still appears (no pun intended) to provide superior lighting even if they are not perceived as being better.

All of this is in reference to high speed highway riding by the way. If traveling at 30 MPH in rural areas than generally ‘blasted’ light is superior to a narrow beam, especially if a lot of turns and the bike leaning is involved.

Brian

Interesting info on the dimmer Marty, I looked at that one, but had already bought one from eBay.  I'm now making my own, so I'll keep an eye on the operational temps of the FET leads.

I finally installed a second set of these on my C14 yesterday, just to see if 2 sets were better than 1 (also have a third set, but didn't go there, yet).

I mounted the second set to the front fender bolts, using spacers and longer bolts.  The mounting seems pretty solid, and I think I'll keep them there.  You really get to see every uneven surface, and every piece of gravel on the road with these down low like that.

I went out for a little night ride around the country side last night, and quickly discovered I'll have to retrain myself when riding at night.  I found I was riding as fast as I do in the daylight, going a little too hot into corners, etc.  With both sets of these on, it really is like riding in daylight.  Maybe 12,400 lumens, plus the stock lights, will be enough. 

[maxtog]

Just food for thought....  Dramatically increasing the light on the ground just in front of the bike can be counterproductive. We perceive it as 'better lighting' but it is usually the other way- it throws a lot more reflected light into our eyes making it true that it is brighter in front of us but the light is coming from our surroundings much too close to be of any use. Of course forward lighting should illuminate <more or less> everything in front of the vehicle but it is actually an advantage to mute the light that hits the road, say, in the first 100 feet of the vehicle. What we really want to see is further down the road and foreground lighting hurts that in two ways; the first thing is that we are using a great quantity of our light too close to the vehicle and that light is no longer available for downrange lighting. The second problem is that because outside brightness does go up it makes our pupils close so we are even less sensitive to what is much less well lit in the distance. For example, a deer really does not show up very well at night at, say, 1,000 feet even if standing in the road. Over illuminating the paint on the road, road signs, various reflectors on the sides of the road and finally the surrounding plant life immediately in front of us makes seeing that same deer even harder, or outright impossible.

These new and very powerful LED are quite impressive and I am a big fan but so far I have not seen any decent patterns coming from them. A properly controlled beam of HID or even tungsten light still appears (no pun intended) to provide superior lighting even if they are not perceived as being better.

All of this is in reference to high speed highway riding by the way. If traveling at 30 MPH in rural areas than generally ‘blasted’ light is superior to a narrow beam, especially if a lot of turns and the bike leaning is involved.

I agree with everything you just said.   I would add that I don't think there is any valid use for most  auxiliary bright road lighting unless it is for night-time use, wired with high-beam only, and focused either far down the road or to the distant sides.

[jalthar]

I got a set during this sale for my DR650 (I'm happy with the Denalis on my C14, so far), they arrived quickly
from China (not India) via express mail. I tested them and they are bright and work well but they are pole sensitive
(some LED lights have an internal bridge rectifier so you can hook them up backwards and they still work, these do not).
  I also ordered the dimmer which has yet to arrive, I emailed them and they said it shipped separately.
 I've got doubts, but I'll post here if it shows up and works.

edit 9-1-12: The dimmer showed up 8-31-12, shipped from India. It works*, comes with a remote fob which is good because there are no controls on the unit itself. The unit has memory that seems to survive during the power shut off. When the power is restored there is a full bright flash followed by the condition that was present when power was removed, be it dimmed, off, or full bright. The fob was tested at 10 feet and worked well. Most of the testing was done with only one light and the dimmer worked well. When the second unit was added in parallel it worked for a short while then quit*. I measured each LED unit at 2.7 amps so it should have been a total of 5.4 Amps that this 8 amp rated dimmer couldn't handle.(Note: this testing was done with 12v battery power only, the bike was not started)  I opened it up and found that a wire near the output transistor had un-soldered itself. I re-soldered the wire and hooked it back up and the LED lights came on at full bright and the unit wouldn't respond to the fob. In short order I could see that the output transistor was getting hot and the solder near it was molten again so I shut it down. The lights are fricking bright and I hope they'll hold up under rough road/trail conditions , but I can't  recommend the $14.50 dimmer. (since ordering, I've seen the same dimmer priced from $6.43 to $49.00)

use this dimmer http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/IQ_170.shtml

IQ-170 Intelligent Lighting Controller: Operation

http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/IQ_170_Wiring.html

[Sinstr]

I ordered a set of these and when they arrived one light did not work.  After multiple e-mails with Lisa Jackson I sent pictures to her and she said to send the light with pictures and and an explanation to India.  Did that o 2 Jul 2012.  Waited and waited, got nothing.  Contacted her again.  Gave her my USPS tracking number.  All I got back from her was that my light must be lost in India somewhere and that she could not help me.  Guess my major mistake on this was trusting that their customer service would be better.  Expensive lesson to learn.  The one light that I received that does work is great.  Just don't want my bike to look like a cyclops.  Ordered a set of lights from Whitehorse.  No problems with their system.

[556ALPHA]

More options and appear to be very similar lights
http://stores.advmonster.com/-strse-LED-Lights/Categories.bok

Highly recommended on the ADV forum
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607184&page=182

[jalthar]

I ordered a set of these and when they arrived one light did not work.  After multiple e-mails with Lisa Jackson I sent pictures to her and she said to send the light with pictures and and an explanation to India.  Did that o 2 Jul 2012.  Waited and waited, got nothing.  Contacted her again.  Gave her my USPS tracking number.  All I got back from her was that my light must be lost in India somewhere and that she could not help me.  Guess my major mistake on this was trusting that their customer service would be better.  Expensive lesson to learn.  The one light that I received that does work is great.  Just don't want my bike to look like a cyclops.  Ordered a set of lights from Whitehorse.  No problems with their system.

Dear you have problem with USPS service.
can you share your tracking number with me may be I am able to help you.
or Contact USPS and ask for Claim

[just gone]

So jalthar, looking at all your posts here, it appears that you are http://www.24x7diy.com/

RAHUL?

If so, why would you sell a dimmer on your website, and then recommend another one at another web site?
I'm just curious.

use this dimmer http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/IQ_170.shtml

IQ-170 Intelligent Lighting Controller: Operation

http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/IQ_170_Wiring.html

[C1xRider]

So jalthar, looking at all your posts here, it appears that you are http://www.24x7diy.com/

RAHUL?

If so, why would you sell a dimmer on your website, and then recommend another one at another web site?
I'm just curious.

Jalthar sent me an email from the 24x7diy domain, so it looks like you are correct.  However, his name is Jim (at least in the email).

If he can help resolve the issues Sinstr is having, that would be nice. 

[C1xRider]

Just food for thought....  Dramatically increasing the light on the ground just in front of the bike can be counterproductive. We perceive it as 'better lighting' but it is usually the other way- it throws a lot more reflected light into our eyes making it true that it is brighter in front of us but the light is coming from our surroundings much too close to be of any use. Of course forward lighting should illuminate <more or less> everything in front of the vehicle but it is actually an advantage to mute the light that hits the road, say, in the first 100 feet of the vehicle. What we really want to see is further down the road and foreground lighting hurts that in two ways; the first thing is that we are using a great quantity of our light too close to the vehicle and that light is no longer available for downrange lighting. The second problem is that because outside brightness does go up it makes our pupils close so we are even less sensitive to what is much less well lit in the distance. For example, a deer really does not show up very well at night at, say, 1,000 feet even if standing in the road. Over illuminating the paint on the road, road signs, various reflectors on the sides of the road and finally the surrounding plant life immediately in front of us makes seeing that same deer even harder, or outright impossible.

These new and very powerful LED are quite impressive and I am a big fan but so far I have not seen any decent patterns coming from them. A properly controlled beam of HID or even tungsten light still appears (no pun intended) to provide superior lighting even if they are not perceived as being better.

All of this is in reference to high speed highway riding by the way. If traveling at 30 MPH in rural areas than generally ‘blasted’ light is superior to a narrow beam, especially if a lot of turns and the bike leaning is involved.

Brian

You are correct Brian.  Too much light too low is distracting.  I aimed the lower lights so the center of the beam is horizontal and a little to the outside, but there is more than enough 'spray' from the pattern to light up the road very well up close. 

I did do a unplanned extreme road test the other night (i.e. don't try this at home).  I tested them in pitch dark, in a driving rain storm, racing across the central Nevada desert, at triple digit speeds, and could still see the road very well.  Certainly not a prudent thing to do, but very glad I had them.

Also, the screw pivot hardware setup changed on the newer ones.  The first set had a good setup, with a jam nut on each side of the bracket ears.  The newer ones have a solid spacer between the ears, and a single nut on the outside.  I've been having trouble with the nuts coming loose, and lost one a day after I tightened it as tight as I thought I dared.  I bought some more 5mm nuts at a saw shop in central Wyoming (the most expensive nuts I've ever purchased), and double nutted them.  If they still come loose, I'll Locktite them when I get home.

[556ALPHA]

So jalthar, looking at all your posts here, it appears that you are http://www.24x7diy.com/

RAHUL?

If so, why would you sell a dimmer on your website, and then recommend another one at another web site?
I'm just curious.

Well maybe it is just me but that seems a little dishonest, a variation of lying by omission.  Looking at the post history pretty much confirms this.  If you come to a forum to peddle your product then man up and take responsibility or ownership.  Then again, maybe that's just me.   

[jalthar]

So jalthar, looking at all your posts here, it appears that you are http://www.24x7diy.com/

RAHUL?

If so, why would you sell a dimmer on your website, and then recommend another one at another web site?
I'm just curious.

Hello all
I always want to give right guide to my clients.

I am OEM manufacture of these lights and Solar products.

Both Dimmer are made by third party.
some of clients requested to add that dimmer on our store so that they can by product from single sale point.

RF dimmer is cheap and good dimmer as some of my France clients using same dimmer with any problem

http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/IQ_170.shtml  is advance and expensive dimmer. and made by USA Based company Skene design.
most of our clients are using skene design dimmer without any problem.
Skene design dimmer is expensive.
 if I Import and to  keep in my stock  It will be more expensive due to shipping fee from USA and custom fee / taxes of my country. So its not wise to sell on my site.
My be in future we will sell that when we have warehouse  in USA
if any body need any advice regarding my products, wants to give feedback pls feel free to contact me.
I am online very rare. you can email to my Assistant Lisa  lisjackson@gmail.com

Special offer for  all forum members from my side $5USD additional discount 0n BL3000 and BL1800 Model
During checkout please put your forum username and my name in note field.
within 1-2 days your additional discount will be refunded
Regards
Jalthar

[Joncon11]

I’m still going over wiring options for these lights. I don’t want them tied to the hi-beam switch because I want to use them independently of the bikes lighting system (try to refrain from all the legal and ethical lighting discussion please), but I like the idea of a dimmer. I found this, and I was hoping I could use it somehow. It's weather resistant, and it’s an on-off, rheostat type switch (OEM grip heater switch). Do the electrical folks here think this would work?

Thanks!

[Armyguns]

For what's it worth, I wrote up a detailed Tech article on the use of a dimmer with LED lights.  I run my LEDs at about 1/2 power as auxillary running lights (day and night).  When I turn on the bike high beam, the dimmer circuit is bypassed and the LEDs run at full power.  I'm (again) providing this write-up.