He didn't get the bolt out, he twisted the head of it off. Bolt is still in the frame......
Sadly, this.
I tried vice grips, and it twisted what's left smooth. Later I will buy a smaller extractor and I will try again. For now the door stays off. Surprisingly high amount of heat coming out of that opening. I can feel it through my riding pants.
OK, here is a method I used once succesfully to drill out a sheared subframe mounting bolt on a different machine. There was about 3/16 of the sheared bolt protruding from the aluminum main frame. I clamped two quarter inch alum plates together and drilled a 1/16 inch central hole and three locating holes. Unclamped and then drilled one of the central holes to the size of the bolt shaft. I used the locating holes to clamp the two plates together again. This made a jig for drilling out the bolt that centered the drill bit by placing the large hole side over it. I made a 1/16 pilot hole and went progressively higher until just the threads were left and I could good pick them out and then clean up with a tap. If I had screwed up I would have just gone to the next larger bolt size but I did not.
That also is a pretty good way to get the broken bolt out. The only thing I might question is using a bigger bolt, that is a special "shouldered" socket bolt and it would be hard to match it up. I would just heli-coil if I messed up drilling it.I was thinking the same thing, that particular bolt is unusual. The welding method is a better idea if you have access to a welder. I would take it to a shop. I have had good results at welding shops getting bike parts repaired, they have only charged about $20.00
I was thinking the same thing, that particular bolt is unusual. The welding method is a better idea if you have access to a welder. I would take it to a shop. I have had good results at welding shops getting bike parts repaired, they have only charged about $20.00
I went thru the same issue when I was pulling the battery for winter storage. Three out of the 4 bolts I had to remove stripped out. I initially tried a bolt extractor with no luck. Then I tried drilling into the bolt with a bit that was smaller than the shank of the bolt and carfully drilled in most of the length of the bolt. I tried the bolt extractor repeatedly during this process until the bolt lost enough of it's holding power to come out. I ordered replacement bolts which are not yet installed and I would really like to know that when I put them in I wouldn't have the same problem again.I had trouble with the cover bolt. It looked to me like it was not properly tapped, as well as being non perpendiclular as Jayke mentioned. I bought the appropriate tap and cleaned up the threads and have not had any more trouble.
This started with this tread... http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2763.0
This is the painted cover that you must remove from the right side, before you can access the cover for the battery.
There is one bolt. Last time I removed it, it did not want to go back on easy. Well now it wouldn't come off at all. The alllen stripped in the bolt. Ideas? I tried cutting a groove to fit a large flat head screw driver, but the bolt is too soft to use a screw driver in. If I go to Kragen, what am I looking for to drilll into it?
I could really use some advice, I'd like to get it back on the road tomorrow.
I tried heat, I tried hitting it with a hammer.
It moved, but not much. Now I can't grip it with anything.
Forget welding just drill and tap it.
"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"
A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning.
"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"
A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning.
Forget welding just drill and tap it.
You know, trying to find that OEM bolt on the Microfiche is turning out to be very difficult. I can't even find the cover on any of the pages.http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pages/OemParts#/Kawasaki/ZG1400A8F_Concours_14_ABS_(2008)/FRAME_FITTINGS/ZG1400A8F-2008/I14I1485F2131