Newbie Sucks at Search feature (but it's fixed!)

[norbvr]

I know there is not much worse than a newbie question that a simple search will find an answer to (unless it is ending a sentence with a prepisition).  Sadly, I must suck at search or have a unique problem 

New to me 2006 45K.  running along at any speed (30 -65mph) and you pull in the clutch and the bike dies.  Just dies. (as I learned last night, the headlight goes out as well).  Drop a couple gears, let the clutch out and it bump starts and runs fine.  If you pull the clutch in and rev the motor, it will stay running.

Where do I need to look?  I'm going to park it when I get home from work today so I can spend the weekend checking everything over front to back to see how it tics, but I have to admit this has me puzzled.  I have no prior owner history of the bike. 

Thank you, and apologies up front for what might have been beat to death prior.

Norbvr

[Rick Hall]

Search isn't an exact science.

Stepping out on a limb here, sounds like a J-box issue. Especially since you say the light dies also. Could be just a corroded fuse/fuse contact. Could be a flaky connection to/from the J-Box, or could be one of the relays in the J-Box going south.

BTW, the J-Box is the fuse box unit.

For a warm fuzzy, clean/lube the side stand switch. This could cause the bike to die (but not the headlight?), and it's usually the problem when the bike dies on 'first shift' from neutral.

Rick

[norbvr]

Thank you!  I've just been reading up on that problem    Well, it will be a good chance to get to know her.    I thought I was leaving the URAL motorcycle challenges behind with this bike.  250 miles since I got her yesterday, at 250 miles on the Ural I'd already been stranded a couple times 

I've just ordered the relays; hope to make it home tonight.

Thanks again! 

Norbvr

[T Cro ®]

Hey be careful talking bad about the Ural here I don't need you bringing me no bad karma..... See my sig line please!

Headlight is controled through a couple of relays (main & headlight) in the J-box but those relays have nothing to do with the ignition circuits but rather the starting circuit; could be the main fuse though.

BUT.... You said that if you pull in the clutch and rev the motor that it will stay running. So my question is what is the idle speed set at? If it is set below 1,000 RPM your engine my very well die out when you pull in the clutch if for no other reason than it is not getting enough fuel. Your idle should be set closest too 1,100 RPM.....

[norbvr]

Hey be careful talking bad about the Ural here I don't need you bringing me no bad karma..... See my sig line please!

We've most likely met on other boards    My URal was finally made bullet proof.

Interesting point on the fuel...I noted early that the petcock was left on "prime".  I switched it back to "run".  The idle is showing  ~1200 on the tach - I'll stick a real measure to it at the house.  But, pulling in the clutch (like you were going to coast) does instantly stop the magic motion of the motor.  I will strip  all I can to clean and go over everything starting this weekend.  I've ordered the J box relays, and LEDs for the dash lights/clock.

Thanks,

Norbvr

[T Cro ®]

Haven't been there in quite some time but my screen name was the same but spelt teecro on the IMZ sponsored web site.

[Daytona_Mike]

New to me 2006 45K.  running along at any speed (30 -65mph) and you pull in the clutch and the bike dies.  Just dies. (as I learned last night, the headlight goes out as well).  Drop a couple gears, let the clutch out and it bump starts and runs fine.  If you pull the clutch in and rev the motor, it will stay running.

It just so happens that I have been for the last  3 hours staring at those very schematics. The fact the the headlight goes out  when the engine stalls  tells me the J-box lost power , maybe you have a a loose connection on the battery which only shows up while riding..
Let me ask you to try something. With the kick stand down and you put the bike in gear , when you drive away does the engine stall? It is supposed to.
Now when your  coasting and you rev the engine to keep it running and you put the bike in neutral, does the engine stay running with out revving the engine and yet pulling the clutch in and out?
Once the headlight relay is latched on the only thing that shuts it off is a momentary  loss of power or your ignition key  switch is loose or dirty inside in which case you should be able to duplicate that problem sitting still.

[norbvr]

Thank you!  The headlight going dark puzzles me as well and led to my thinking the problem was electrical.  I will test as you mentioned this weekend.  I rode it yesterday and kind of learned to avoid the situation by just slipping the clutch to change gears (keeps the rev's going) rather than pull in the clutch to coast.  The side stand safety works as it should.

This weekend I am going to take the time to go through everything I can on the bike.  I have just ensured fuel, oil and tire pressures to this point.  I am going to remove the previouslty added farkles (just two, some kind of speaker/amplifier system that I have already unplugged, and some add on running lights that near as I can tell just tap power from the headlight circut.  It just doesn't seem proper to me, but I will dig further)

I will try the key wiggle, also check the routing of the clutch cable incase it is rubbing a short of some kind.

All of you on this board that have posted before me  -  Thank You!!!  what a pleasure it is to have such a wealth of data to review on this "new-to-me" bike.  Your willingness to post up and share the knowledge is wonderful.  I've learned so much from reading here.

Norbvr

[norbvr]

The weather is just too nice for me to tear it down and look things over   I went for almost 300 miles on Saturday and just slipped the clutch to keep the revs up so it wouldn't stall.  Friday night I removed the speaker thing the PO had installed; I've left the added lights alone until I can figure how they are added in more thoughly.  I've order the relays for the J-box.

As nice as the weather is, I'm going to keep riding as is with the promise to update when I can resolder the J-box during a lull in the riding

Thanks!

Norbvr

[connie_rider]

Can you keep the bike reved with the clutch pulled in?
If so, after you rev it for a time will it continue to run  (with the clutch pulled in)?

Reason I ask is it sounds like you may still have a side stand switch issue.

Ride safe, Ted

[norbvr]

It will continue to idle just fine (around 1100-1200) while at stop lights and things.  My commute has about 27 miles of straight, boring two lane - lots of forward visibility.  If I see some one in fornt slowing to turn, I'll just pull in the clutch to downshift, coast  and slow rather than waiting longer and braking.  So, if I just pull in the clutch from 6th gear and 60ish MPH, the bike just dies.  headlight out, dies.  I leave the clutch in, drop two gears and pop the clutch it bump starts to life and downshifts to idle just fine.  If (as I've learned) I just pull the clutch enough to downshift, let the lower gear keep the revs up, I can drop down through all the gears to a perfectly smooth idle in neutral or with the clutch pulled in all the way.  I guess I need to put a meter between the clutch ahndle and ground and check for a short or something.  With this nice weather, I am happy with the work around   

Thanks - I'll update when I make a change or investigation.

Norbvr

[NoGas]

I have a '96 and it exhibits similar behavior. Mine  will die but if I play with the wires in the J box it will restart. I suspect the wire from the battery to the J box but have not traced it out as yet. Whatever the headache the bikes is worth the pain. This is part of getting to know the bike. Just Dont Let the Smoke out.

[norbvr]

We finally had a enough bad weather in a row for me to look deeper.  To cut to the chase - the problem is solved.

I found 14 of the 16 valves too tight with a capital OH MY.  number one intake were both just fine.  I adjusted the vavles, removed all non factory wiring, new oil and filter, cleaned and gapped plugs ensured good fuel flow and good grief!  It's like a new bike.  Just got back from 106 mile shake down trip and I could not be happier!  No more stalling, lots of power and speed - in short, it's everything I'd hope it would be.

While it was all apart I added LED dash and clock lights and just look over everything.  replaced bunch of the tupperware bolts with hex heads with washers (which is what I had in the house, not because it looks the best  )  

I wonder if the resistor mod to the fuel gauge could get added to the back of the dash panel at the gauge?  I didn't have the right resistor in the house, so that will be another project for later.

Now,  I really need to find a good( not terribly exPensive) seat because this one on there stinks   

Thanks to all you people that took the time to post how to's and write ups on things.  What a treasure trove of knowledge to tap into.     Y'all get a cold drink and pretend I bought it for ya!

Thanks,     

Peter 

[Gitbox]

I wonder if the resistor mod to the fuel gauge could get added to the back of the dash panel at the gauge?  I didn't have the right resistor in the house, so that will be another project for later.

That's what I did when I had the instrument cluster out for a bulb change. Piece of cake.


I think I used a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor with a small ring terminal soldered to each end. It definitely made the fuel gauge more accurate. When the needle just hits red, I go on reserve.