Steering stem race removal issues.

[gregman_1]

Hey all, replacing the bearings in my 56k mile Connie.  Got the bearing on the stem replaced just fine, my problem now is the races in the headpipe.

I have done many head bearings on various motorcycles, and never had this much trouble.  The problem is that Kawasaki put a very thick "reinforcement" inside the head pipe, which almost completely precludes access to the back side of the races (especially the bottom race).  I tried doing it with a punch (my usual method) to no avail.  I tried my Park Tool steering head race remover, would not get a bite on the lower race.  I tried making the "tool" described in the steering head bearing "how to" thread (washers and pipe), the washers just deform and pop out (I ended up smashing my finger good with this method).  I even went out and purchased Kawasaki tool 57001-1107, which is the tool Kawasaki says is required for this job ($70), and it just slips off the race after about 4 or 5 whacks with the hammer.

What gives here?  My poor old Connie has been sitting in the garage for three weeks just waiting for steering bearings, which should have been a 2 hour job at worst.  Is there a trick I'm missing?

[Deziner]

PM sent

[Summit670]

I've never done the removal but have heard about the problem.  Seems like I recall someone mentioning using a welder to weld a washer or something onto the race to provide an area of contact for a punch??

[MAN OF BLUES]

if you have the specific race removal tool, that has the thumbscrew, and split puller assembly. it works better than anything available.. you do have to tighten the screw to force the split sections apart, and force the chamfered ring into the recess along the radial radiused recess at the inner edge of the race/frame interface, and do this everytime you whack it with the punch. It's time consuming, but must be done, or the the thing will popp outta the edge, and flop to the floor.
That wedge shaped "radial blade" area has to be positioned correctly at the radius on the bearing cup, and tightened to cut into the seam line. ( I use channel loks to tighten a turn, whack the tool, and tighten again) at some point, it will have a good grip and the parting line will open... just takes a couple tries when you understand the tool....

if you have access to the COG members forum, I have a nice writup on this called "shake, rattle roll" in a Concourier back in 2007?


I'll try to dig the pics up for ya.

There is no better tool than the one Kaw makes, other than that, welding a big washer in the cup with a mig welder and smack it with a punch works next best, just use caution...

[Jwh360]

I used a MIG welder to run a bead of weld all the way around the inside surface of the race.  Keep it centered on the race surface so you don't weld the race to the tube.  As the weld cools, it shrinks, and it makes the race shrink just enough for it to be easily removed.  My bottom race fell out after about 15 minutes of cooling.  The top one needed a few easy taps with a hammer and punch to get it out.  Hot rod guys use this method to remove axle bearing races on cars.  There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to do this.