Fork tube rebuild kit?

[oldsmoboat]

Emailed a shop to see if they would replace my fork seals.  He recommended "Fork tube rebuild kits" ($50 ea).  I don't find them online.  He didn't answer my email yet, anyone seen them or know what's in them?

[redzgrider]

He's probably referring to the K&L kits, which include two fork seals or two fork dust wipers. One kit of each services both forks. Best source is, of course, Gary Murphy at murphskits:
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_97&products_id=54
get both kits and the replacement snap rings -- the old ones are more thank likely crusty, and new ones seat more easily. $48 shipped for the most pertinent parts -- though you may also need new crush washers for the damper bolts.

[MAN OF BLUES]

Never heard of that....
Maybe Murph's kits can supply parts?

[MAN OF BLUES]

Damn beat me by a minute

[redzgrider]

A truly rare event!

[Mettler1]

Damn beat me by a minute

  Comes with age Rich.

[Summit670]

I'm a believer in the "seal wiper" method, though I didn't use the Motion Pro Seal Wiper.  I used a piece of plastic soda bottle and I put masking tape on it for additional wiping. Just use care when you insert it so you don't harm the seal. 

It stopped leaks on two of my bikes.  Those seals are constantly going up/down the fork and sometimes don't scrape all the debris/bug splatter off the forks before the seal travels past it, then the seal must travel past it again on the downstroke so you have 2x where there is a chance the seal will be contaminated.

It's free using the soda plastic, and only takes 5 minutes.  Nothing lost if it doesn't work.

[redzgrider]

Very valid point. Cost and risk are both quite low. At worst you still need new seals. Just take a look at the parts break-down first, and realize the fork seal is below the dust seal -- so you need to make your tools sufficiently long to reach through the dust seal and under the fork seal. Seems to me I've seen photos of tools fabricated from photographic film stock and the like, with a bit of a hook shape at the end to drag bug body bits out.

[RFH87_Connie]

If you're going to try to "clean" them with a wiper tool, slide the dust seal up and out of the way.  A thin screwdriver or butter knife can get under the edge to pry it up.  Then get the tool in there to the fork seal and finish up with an airhose to remove any debris.  Tap the dust seal back down to complete it.

IMHO, if you are going to replace fork seals, I would highly recommend OEM seals in this instance.  I have never had long-term luck with K&L (or any other) fork seals.  Get your dust seals from whomever you want (I get OEM here too).  I also use a scotch-brite pad very lightly with a little bit of breakcleen on it to polish the tubes to remove any small pock marks - but don't use it so hard that you change the sheen on the tubes, unless you have a bad dig you need to reduce.  These little dings carry dirt in and slowly deposit inside the seal lip to start the process all over.

Again, finish up with an airhose.

[Arata]

Change the bushings while you are in there, especially if its high mileage.

IMO of course.

[redzgrider]

I ordinarily agree about K&L vs OEM, but the K&L kits I got from Gary Murphy contained the exact same seals as Kawasaki uses and supplies as replacements. Same maker as the OEM replacement seal for my Triumph as well.

[RFH87_Connie]

I ordinarily agree about K&L vs OEM, but the K&L kits I got from Gary Murphy contained the exact same seals as Kawasaki uses and supplies as replacements. Same maker as the OEM replacement seal for my Triumph as well.

If thats true, then that's great.  Murph's write-up on them eludes to pretty much the same thing and I know Murph's intent is to carry the best product (or at least a very high standard) for us or nothing.  I wonder if this can be proven as fact at some point?  You listening Murph?

[oldsmoboat]

Murph's part number has "KL" in it.
I am replacing the bushings too.
Thanks.