Best Torque Wrench??

[h2smokin]

If i ever need to torque anything to 450# its going to the dealer

[booger]

I've have had Craftsman 3/8 and 1/2" for years, both clicker and beam.

I don't know how accurate they are, but I haven't twisted bolts or ruined threads or have anything vibrate loose.

[booger]

Additionally, you might do what my next door neighbor does........borrow from his next door neighbor (ME)

[DocPigskin]

Additionally, you might do what my next door neighbor does........borrow from his next door neighbor (ME)

 

[mikeboileau]

Additionally, you might do what my next door neighbor does........borrow from his next door neighbor (ME)

The best one is the one you borrow.......anybody wanna lend one?

 

[Restless]

Craftsman and Harbor Freight are the 2 top picks? That's scary.

  CDI makes all of Snap-Ons Torque wrenchs as well as Armstrong and Precision Instruments. So something like this would be a pretty good deal.

  http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c3fr250f.aspx

  At work we have our Torquing tools checked every year and every tech I've talked to says pretty much the same. This little excerpt is from another forum.

Thanks to everyone for their feedback!    As I have found with everything else I have researched and read about on the web and yes, even the connie forums, there are as many opinions on torque wrenches out there as there are on tires, oil and seats, go figure right?. 

I actually decided to go with the CDI brand in the end and ordered a couple on Tuesday to cover the required ranges on our beloved C14.  Interesting that the quote above came in after I did that and helped to solidify my conclusion, especially the part from the Snap-On guy.  Sure, I could have gone with Craftsman (almost did) or Harbor Freight, etc. but if you go out and look, even a little, there are an overwhelming number of those who agree that the "quality" has slipped in recent years.  Personally and for my money, I would like to only buy once and not have to replace again later due to failure or calibration being sub-par.  I figure I'll save in the long run by doing my own maintenance and that justifies spending a little more on the right tools the first time...at least in my mind, YMMV. 

One things for sure, the overwhelming majority of us believe that the C14 is the best sport tourer for the money spent and that's all that really matters, at least on this site anyway!      Thanks again to everyone for their thoughts!

[CrashKLRtoConnie]

A few rules of thumb I have used wrt torque wrench;

1. Select the drive size appropriate to the applied torque ~ (1/4" (in oz)) .. ~ (3/8" (15 in oz - 85 ft lbs)) .. ~ (1/2" (30 ft lbs - 150 ft lbs))

2. Once you define the max ft lbs force you need to torque (select a torque wrench that has a range 25 - 50% higher)
(note: Torque wrenches tend to be best used in mid range)

For low torques (in oz) and soft materials (Al .. plastics) I tend to select a dial torque wrench.

I use a 3/8" clicker type for most motorcycle torques.

I use a 1/2" clicker type for most 70 ft lbs or higher torque values (axles nuts)

For cost a beam torque wrench cannot be beat.

Always store clicker type torque wrenches in the no / low torque setting

[R Nelson]

For what it is worth, the cheesy needle- pointer, beam bending torque wrenches work directly on physics, which is pretty hard to out smart. The bending of a piece of a known type of steel is easily predicted and very repeatable. So for all the torque wrenches that really do talk to you, take batteries and use sophisticated Wheatstone bridges with a strain gauge on board, the simple act of bending a stick of any homogeneous, crystalline material will work extremely well as a gauge.

Of course if the electronic version was to come with a remote authentication system, then I am sure it would be much, much better.

Brian

I agree with you on that.  For accuracy and longevity, it's hard to beat a beam style torque wrench.  To me their biggest downfall is ease of use on fasteners that aren't in a good position for reading the scale.  That's why I end up using my clickers more.

My one complaint on my clickers is that I just don't always trust them.  When I'm driving fasteners in the 100-120 in-lb range, sometimes the thing just won't click when I think it should.  I'm always afraid of stripping the hole if it's in aluminum and sometimes will go without the torque wrench and just go by feel.

[mikeboileau]

Always store clicker type torque wrenches in the no / low torque setting

Didn't know that....

[Kazairl]

Every Mechanic I've talked to always says that. Every Calibration tech  I've talked to says to store them at 20% of scale. Especially the ones that require you to twist the handle to set the torque. The ones with the little wheel on the side like Snap On sells don't care where they are left.

[vortex2]

If you are torquing the bolts that hold on your side panels, use anything.
If you are torquing your axle nuts, I would be WAY more precise. I use Snap-On
for important stuff.

[mikeboileau]

3 pages......Did we figure this out yet?

[Kazairl]

It ranks up there with Ford Vs. Dodge vs Chevy as the never ending argument.

[mikeboileau]

It ranks up there with Ford Vs. Dodge vs Chevy as the never ending argument.

Nah, That's easy.......CHEVY!!

[Kazairl]

Bleck. Mopar is clearly the best.

[mkorn]

I vote for Ford

[DocPigskin]

   officially hijacked.

[mikeboileau]

  officially hijacked.

Yeah....You probably like Toyotas!

[ZG]

I vote for Ford

+1... 

[DocPigskin]

Yeah....You probably like Toyotas!

lol  ...?   wth?   Toyotas?   Where did that come from?