Change hydraulic oil in the clutch: Kawasaki GTR 1400

[MGvalerio]

This requires replacement brake oil + or - 3/4 of an hour.
 
http://youtu.be/cegdOZfo-Qg
 
 
 
MGvalerio

[VirginiaJim]

Looks like the reservoir is totally empty.  Playing it close to the edge with that one MG?  The clutch is the hardest to bleed if it goes dry.  I usually let mine go nearly empty and then clean the gunk out, then start the bleeding process at the slave side.  Good idea with the gloves.  I used Kwak fluid on mine recently and it burned me, it did.  First time I've had a reaction to that.

[Conrad]

It looks like you may have glossed over a step or two in this process MG.

[Turbo810]

I use a mighty vac when I change the brake and clutch fluids. I also use motul 5.1. It doesn't break down as fast as the d.o.t. 4. And it gives the brakes a more firm feel.

[Fretka]

Live or ride in the mountains?  Use a high boiling point brake fluid!  I'm very adamant on this subject, 600 degrees or higher or extended use of your brakes will boil regular fluid and present you with a nasty surprise....... no brakes or something close to it!
Most off the shelf fluid will NOT cut it. Also do not use DOT 5 (silicon based and does not mix with all the others).

My personal experience with hand vacuum pump bleeders is that they will pull air past the threads on the nipple and you will be bleeding your brakes for infinity. A constant stream of same size bubbles will result. You can do the initial fill with them but hand bleed the last.  Just my personal experience.

F.

[gPink]

Live or ride in the mountains?  Use a high boiling point brake fluid!  I'm very adamant on this subject, 600 degrees or higher or extended use of your brakes will boil regular fluid and present you with a nasty surprise....... no brakes or something close to it!
Most off the shelf fluid will NOT cut it. Also do not use DOT 5 (silicon based and does not mix with all the others).

My personal experience with hand vacuum pump bleeders is that they will pull air past the threads on the nipple and you will be bleeding your brakes for infinity. A constant stream of same size bubbles will result. You can do the initial fill with them but hand bleed the last.  Just my personal experience.

F.

recommendations?

[Fretka]

recommendations?

Motul 6 or something, (I threw away my empty bottle) seems like it had yellow/red label and a boiling point of around 635 degrees.
All brake fluid will display a boiling point in the small lettering. They make 2 varieties that are both +600, either one.
This is not a priority if you are ALWAYS easy on your brakes but past experience showed me that it makes a diff.
Works for clutch as well and is about $15. per bottle.

[wildnphx]

Motul 6 or something, (I threw away my empty bottle) seems like it had yellow/red label and a boiling point of around 635 degrees.
All brake fluid will display a boiling point in the small lettering. They make 2 varieties that are both +600, either one.
This is not a priority if you are ALWAYS easy on your brakes but past experience showed me that it makes a diff.
Works for clutch as well and is about $15. per bottle.

Looks like perhaps it is RBF600?

[url]http://ew5.earlweb.com/recommendations.php?sector=2&category=25&subset=973&modelyear=&vehicle=69070&site=41&region=59&language=7&brand=45[url]

[Fretka]

Dats da one!