Author Topic: Murphs Riser installation instructions (Read 6120 times)

TJ · « **on:** May 31, 2012, 08:11:28 PM »

Anyone have a set of instructions for installing Murphs risers and wedges? They are not on his web site and I just bought the set advertised in the "For Sale" section.

danl · « **Reply #1 on:** June 01, 2012, 09:40:21 AM »

there's really not much too it. remove the old bolts to take off the handlebars. put the riser and wedge on, put the angled washers on the new bolts, insert thru the handlebar, wedge, and riser. Use a toothpick or small screwdriver to hold the angled washer in the right position as you tighten. It takes less then 30 minutes to do.

philipintexas · « **Reply #2 on:** June 01, 2012, 10:04:40 AM »

Be sure the wedges go on top of the riser blocks, they cannot go under them. The angled washers offset the angle of the wedge so the bolts tighten on parallel surfaces. Place the high side of the washer opposite the high side of the wedge. Torque to 18 ft. Lbs.

TJ · « **Reply #3 on:** June 01, 2012, 10:51:57 AM »

Thanks, maybe it will make more sense to me once I see the parts in person. Did email Murph yesterday asking for the pdf. file, hope he sends it.

TJ · « **Reply #4 on:** June 05, 2012, 11:58:27 AM »

Received the risers yesterday. They are labeled right and left so that helps. On each riser there is about a 1/4 threaded hole going through each riser near the part number. What is this hole for?
Also, on each riser there are two smaller holes that have screws in them. Am guessing this is where you can mount the ball mount?

Sorry for all the questions. Did email Murph twice asking for the pdf file and the only answer I got was "I don't show you as being a customer of mine". Told him I bought these used off this forum and never heard back from him.

philipintexas · « **Reply #5 on:** June 05, 2012, 03:24:57 PM »

If the two holes are 6 mm threaded and are on the forward surface they are probably for the mounting blocks of the hydraulic lines that were attached on the front of the top-clamp.

Flathead · « **Reply #6 on:** June 05, 2012, 04:36:52 PM »

And the other holes are for mounting a ram ball mount :-)

TJ · « **Reply #7 on:** June 05, 2012, 04:42:45 PM »

Quote from: philipintexas on June 05, 2012, 03:24:57 PM

If the two holes are 6 mm threaded and are on the forward surface they are probably for the mounting blocks of the hydraulic lines that were attached on the front of the top-clamp.

Ok, now I am completely lost! I was told just remove the handlebars and install the risers and wedges. What am I forgetting to do?

Flathead · « **Reply #8 on:** June 05, 2012, 05:06:42 PM »

Quote from: TJ on June 05, 2012, 04:42:45 PM

Ok, now I am completely lost! I was told just remove the handlebars and install the risers and wedges. What am I forgetting to do?

On each side there is a hydraulic line attached to the top of the triple tree, remove the bolt and move each clamp up to the hole in the riser using the bolt you removed. Other than that it really is plug and play. Let me know if you need pic's.

TJ · « **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2012, 05:27:47 PM »

Found the bolt ( I think). It holds a "block" where the hyd lines connect on each side, yes?

Remove the bolt, and then rebolt this "block" to the risers?

Don't see any clamps to move up and down.

Flathead · « **Reply #10 on:** June 05, 2012, 05:29:41 PM »

Sorry TJ, I used block & clamp, meaning the same thing. You should be good

TJ · « **Reply #11 on:** June 05, 2012, 05:57:41 PM »

Thanks! Looks like a project for tomorrow.
Gotta love the internet when you need good advice.

danl · « **Reply #12 on:** June 05, 2012, 06:18:29 PM »

sorry i forgot about the bolt that holds the lines on! hope you are good to go now.

philipintexas · « **Reply #13 on:** June 05, 2012, 07:51:54 PM »

If you haven't installed the wedges yet, you will learn to hate the job. You need to properly position the washers in the counterbore in the stanchion, thick edge of the washer toward the thin edge of the wedge. IE: toward the steering bearing. As soon as you tighten the bolts the washers will try to rotate with the bolt heads. You need to use a small diameter object to hold the washer from rotating as you tighten the bolts. You might try positioning the washer about a quarter turn counter-clockwise from its correct position, then when you tighten the bolt the washer will rotate to the correct orientation.

TJ · « **Reply #14 on:** June 06, 2012, 12:31:44 PM »

Started with the left handlebar first. Removed it pretty easily and then discovered the wiring harness that is inside the wire clip is to short to allow me to add the riser.

What now? Thought these were supposed to be "plug n play"?

RBX QB · « **Reply #15 on:** June 06, 2012, 12:38:08 PM »

Quote from: TJ on June 06, 2012, 12:31:44 PM

Started with the left handlebar first. Removed it pretty easily and then discovered the wiring harness that is inside the wire clip is to short to allow me to add the riser.

What now? Thought these were supposed to be "plug n play"?

I just pulled those wires out of that clip down inside the fairing, and that released enough slack to mount risers and wedges. Rotate the bars side to side afterwards to make sure they don't bind or pinch on anything (mine don't).

TJ · « **Reply #16 on:** June 06, 2012, 12:45:35 PM »

Got it. Found the black plastic round clip about 6 inches down inside the fairing, opened it and removed the wires and closed the clip. Plently of slack now. Do you need to do anything to the wire bundle after they are removed from the clip?

TJ · « **Reply #17 on:** June 06, 2012, 02:07:04 PM »

Here is a tip for anyone doing this in the future. Get a very small (in diameter) sized allen wrench. Bring out the dremel and grind down the smaller end until it fits inbetween the bolt and the riser. Snug every thing up then back off one bolt a turn. Fish the small end of the allen wrench in and catch the notch on the washer and move it into position. The 90 degree angle makes it perfect to hold the washer in position and it is now small enough to stay in place as you tighten it up. Move to the next two and repeat. Then torque to 18 foot pounds. Very easy for one person to install once the layout is figured out.

RBX QB · « **Reply #18 on:** June 06, 2012, 02:08:41 PM »

Quote from: TJ on June 06, 2012, 12:45:35 PM

Got it. Found the black plastic round clip about 6 inches down inside the fairing, opened it and removed the wires and closed the clip. Plently of slack now. Do you need to do anything to the wire bundle after they are removed from the clip?

I just left it alone after I saw it wasn't binding on anything, tho I do check it from time to time. You could just ziptie it to something a little higher up for safe keeping.

Quote from: TJ on June 06, 2012, 02:07:04 PM

Here is a tip for anyone doing this in the future. Get a very small (in diameter) sized allen wrench. Bring out the dremel and grind down the smaller end until it fits inbetween the bolt and the riser. Snug every thing up then back off one bolt a turn. Fish the small end of the allen wrench in and catch the notch on the washer and move it into position. The 90 degree angle makes it perfect to hold the washer in position and it is now small enough to stay in place as you tighten it up. Move to the next two and repeat. Then torque to 18 foot pounds. Very easy for one person to install once the layout is figured out.

I just used a bent nail to hold the notch.

TJ · « **Reply #19 on:** June 06, 2012, 03:12:34 PM »

Raining out and I am to much of a wussy to go on a test ride. But after sitting on the bike think these risers/wedges might be the best compromise between function/looks/price. Up north we are limited to shorter trips but if I ever move down to the lesser 48 states might change my mind and go for the Horizon bars. But gesh, they sure look goofy.

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Author Topic: Murphs Riser installation instructions (Read 6120 times)

Flathead

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