General ballpark numbers for everyone would be about 40-45mm front dynamic sag, 32-36 mm at the rear. this is set with you and all your gear sitting on the bike with feet on the pegs and someone holding the bike up for you.
FRONT FORK SETTINGS
Preload is set by the screw adjuster located at the top of the forks and both sides must be set the same, turn in for more preload and conversely.
Put a zip tie on the stanchion (upper part of fork sliding surface) and pull the bike (forks) and zip tie to it's fully extended position (up), sit on the bike as above which will compress the forks and zip tie. The bike must be upright and held by someone while you take measurements. Then take a measurement from the top of the ziptie to the rubber seal bottom surface when the forks are fully extended up again.
This should be in the 40-45mmm. range.
This dynamic sag # can be adjusted using spring preload found at the top of the forks. Leave the zip on forever and after riding it will tell you how much of the fork travel you are using. If it is bottomed out, dial in a little preload, if it is not pushed near the bottom (fully compressed) then dial out some preload. You want the zip to be almost to the bottom of the stanchion which means you are using the full amount of fork travel available.
Rebound settings for the fork should let the forks pop back up (after compressing them) in about 3/4 second to one second at most...... but definitely not BOING! (too fast). Rebound is set using the screw at the bottom of the forks. I think turn the screw in for more rebound and conversely.......
Too fast a rebound will cause the bike to turn wide or push as you know. This info above pertains to the front only.
REAR SHOCK SETTINGS
Rear preload is set by using the remote knob on the left side of the bike. Rebound is set by using the screw found at the bottom of the shock body. Turn in for more dampening and conversely.
Lift the rear to it's highest position and measure that by using any point on the bike (turn signal) to the ground. climb on again and with feet on the pegs and all gear and helmet on, have someone measure that same way as above, subtract the two and you have your rear dynamic sag, (32-36 mm). Use spring preload knob to set this figure.
Raising the rear of the bike by rear spring preload will make the bike turn faster/easier and less preload, conversely.
Less rear rebound (faster boing or recovery back upwards) will allow the bike to turn faster/ easier, also, by the rear of the bike being higher than the front( during a corner) and thus shortening the wheelbase.
Too much rebound dampening will slow the rear recovery time and make the bike run wide in the turns.
Ideally the rear should recover (up) slightly faster than the front and this is set by the rebound screw at the bottom of the shock body. Less rebound= faster recovery= tighter turns (applies to the rear only).
When adding additional weight or passengers the preload on both front and back can be increased by say one full turn in of both fork and shock. (This is a guesstimate). Remember to check tire pressures constantly with higher pressures for added weight.
I suspect that trying to describe this process I have made a confusing mess but If you have any ? let me know. We can also go into tires and pressures if anyone wants to.
Fretka