Hooking up heated Corbin - 10A v's 5A

[Glennn]

Hi All,

Got my Corbin seat yesterday with the rider's set up as heated.

The instructions show removing the 10A "Accessories" fuse and replacing it with Corbin's 7.5A inline fuse.

Problem is the Accessories fuse on my 2012 Australian 1400GTR was a 5A fuse, and was also stamped as such on the fuse box cover.

Any issues anyone can forsee?

Thanks in advance

[VirginiaJim]

Only if you exceed 5 amps...

[Glennn]

Assume I know nothing about electrinicmics - well don't assume, I got no freakin idea 

Would the Corbin seat exceed 5amps? Am I risking my electronics here?

[VirginiaJim]

Glenn, someone will chime in here eventually.  It's only 6:23am here on the East coast.... 

[jqram35]

From what I have been reading the fuse was a 10 amp before they made heated grips standard. Wiring should be able to handle the amperage and so should the electrical system. Now if you have a bunch of other Farkles keep an eye on your battery voltage when you use a bunch of them...If you use the grips seats and heated gear you could have an issue...

[wally_games]

I noticed the same thing. I followed the directions, even though it was a 5 amp spot instead of 10 amps. I did notice that it makes a difference to your "cigarette lighter" which hole on the Corbin harness you put your fuse into AND which direction you turn it when you plug it in.

It works fine with my seat on, grips on, and Garmin plugged into the "lighter" socket. Haven't caught anything on fire yet.

I do notice that the power is ALWAYS available to the heated seat, even when the ignition is turned off. I wish this weren't the case as I'm afraid that I (or some other ass) will flip the switch on while it's parked and will run the battery down.

Anyone with a 2010+ with a heated Corbin that has suggestions??

[KawiMick]

Hi All,
Got my Corbin seat yesterday with the rider's set up as heated.

The instructions show removing the 10A "Accessories" fuse and replacing it with Corbin's 7.5A inline fuse.
Problem is the Accessories fuse on my 2012 Australian 1400GTR was a 5A fuse, and was also stamped as such on the fuse box cover.

Any issues anyone can forsee?

Thanks in advance

Glenn,
  I too have a heated seat (it's a Bill Mayer Saddle with both front and rear sections heated).  I have the seat powered from the rear accessory leads.  I did NOT replace the 5A fuse and even with both front and rear section turned on full, I have never had a problem with the fuse.  You should be able to put an amp meter inline to check the amperage pulled by your seat heater.  Mine was 3A with both seat elements and my heated grips on.  I have nothing else powered by that circuit.

[Glennn]

Glenn,
  I too have a heated seat (it's a Bill Mayer Saddle with both front and rear sections heated).  I have the seat powered from the rear accessory leads.  I did NOT replace the 5A fuse and even with both front and rear section turned on full, I have never had a problem with the fuse. 

I noticed the same thing. I followed the directions, even though it was a 5 amp spot instead of 10 amps.

From what I have been reading the fuse was a 10 amp before they made heated grips standard. Wiring should be able to handle the amperage and so should the electrical system.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.  Looks like par for the course on these more recent models.

I do notice that the power is ALWAYS available to the heated seat, even when the ignition is turned off. I wish this weren't the case as I'm afraid that I (or some other ass) will flip the switch on while it's parked and will run the battery down.

Yeah I belatedly found this out too after installing the seat and noticing it wouldn't turn off, not overly happy with that "feature"  Here's a thread I found discussing the issue and how the seat can be plugged into different lines that turn off with the bike (similarity of username's and Corbin a coincidence).

Only if you exceed 5 amps...

I missed the cheeky side to your post, Jim (but I do hate electronics, one of the last frontiers for me)

[B.D.F.]

The '08 and '09 models had 10 amp circuits for accessories while the 2010 and later C-14's (GTR's) have 5 amp accessory circuits. You have the later model and the lower amperage circuit.

You should never replace a fuse with a larger value fuse, in any circuit (vehicle, house, commercial, wherever). That said, changing a 5 amp to a 7.5 amp probably would not be enough to damage the wiring in the event of a short.

As others have said, the best way to approach these things is to actually measure the current (amps) being used- it is entirely possible that a 5 amp fuse will be enough to run your heated seat as long as there is nothing else on that circuit. Maybe you could find someone who could help you out regarding the current measurement- perhaps even a friendly dealer would do it without charging you anything. As the dealer will (or should) have a current meter already the actual test will only take a few seconds.

Brian

Hi All,

Got my Corbin seat yesterday with the rider's set up as heated.

The instructions show removing the 10A "Accessories" fuse and replacing it with Corbin's 7.5A inline fuse.

Problem is the Accessories fuse on my 2012 Australian 1400GTR was a 5A fuse, and was also stamped as such on the fuse box cover.

Any issues anyone can forsee?

Thanks in advance

[Glennn]

Thanks Brian.  I might buy a multimeter over the weekend and do some intermahnets searching on how to use one.

[VirginiaJim]

It's not that difficult to use a multimeter.  If one will be working with the electrics on any vehicle they can come in quite handy.

[Smokeyzx]

I had the same problem with my Corbin staying on when the bike was off. I installed a fuzeblock last night. Wired the Corbin, Givi Maxia, and a permanent dual controller for Gerbing  to it and it works great so far. I just need 4" of snow to melt before really putting it to the test. The fuzeblock allows you to wire each accessory as switched or constant power. 

[Smokeyzx]

Rode in the low 30s last night, everything worked great.