Stubborn Stick Coils

[SonnyC]

     After I've tightened all my exhaust header nuts, I decided to might as well attempt to remove and inspect the spark plugs.  That was two days ago.  For some reason I cannot pull out the stick coils.  The manual, on page 16-42 ( I have an 09 ABS model) states to "remove Bolt A, bracket and Connector B, and disconnect the stick coil connectors C"  Well I've disconnected the Stick coil connector C, but I do not see any bracket and connector B anywhere associated with the stick coil.  I do not see any hold down bracket to hold down the stick coil in place.  I tried pulling the stick coil straight up but it would not budge.
     My question are:  Is there a technique in removing the stick coil?  Are they threaded in?  Any help and or advise from the group who has had experience removing the spark plugs/stick coils is appreciated.  Lastly,  Where cany I find the link to purchase the repair video from Fred Hammond?  I googled him and a gospel singer always pop outs.

SonnyC

[DonB]

can not help with the sticks

but

here is the link you want

http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html

[Gsun]

The stick coils are a bi**h to get out the first time. There are no hold down brackets. There is no room for your hand and they are stuck. Gently rotate them being sure not to break it. Once they move, they will come out with effort. If they don't move by rotating, you just have to pull until they do. I think I shot a bit of WD or something in as well. When you put them back in, use a bit of grease on the seals. They will come out easier next time (supposedly!).

[SonnyC]

Thanks to Gsun and DonB for the info.  I'll try WD40 and add a few more bruising on my right hand.

[Pokey]

Unless you have around 50k, I wouldn't even look at them.......just sayin.

[B.D.F.]

I had a hard time removing mine too so I ended up <very gently> prying them up while turning them slightly. I hesitate to even mention this though because the coil housing is plastic and it would not take much to break it by prying on it. The key is gently. Just a little more 'up' pressure than I could generate with my hands alone. I think the real problem is the limited amount of room around the coils themselves; I think if the engine was on the floor and there was no frame in the way it would be easy to remove the coils.

You can use a smear of grease on the inside and outside of the coil to make it easier to remove them next time. WD 40 would probably work also but grease will last a lot longer.

Brian

     After I've tightened all my exhaust header nuts, I decided to might as well attempt to remove and inspect the spark plugs.  That was two days ago.  For some reason I cannot pull out the stick coils.  The manual, on page 16-42 ( I have an 09 ABS model) states to "remove Bolt A, bracket and Connector B, and disconnect the stick coil connectors C"  Well I've disconnected the Stick coil connector C, but I do not see any bracket and connector B anywhere associated with the stick coil.  I do not see any hold down bracket to hold down the stick coil in place.  I tried pulling the stick coil straight up but it would not budge.
     My question are:  Is there a technique in removing the stick coil?  Are they threaded in?  Any help and or advise from the group who has had experience removing the spark plugs/stick coils is appreciated.  Lastly,  Where cany I find the link to purchase the repair video from Fred Hammond?  I googled him and a gospel singer always pop outs.

SonnyC

[SonnyC]

Thanks for all the replies.  I am giving up!  I could not get those darn coils out.  At least I was able to tighten all the header nuts and cleaned all the gunk and oil around the exhaust (smokes when i start the bike).  No signs of a defective cylinder head cover gasket and all the bolts were tight.  Don't know where the oil was coming from.  It could be I put too much oil the last time I changed the oil...It it starts bleeding oil again, I'll definitely send it to the dealer for warranty work (it will expire in 5 months)

By the way is the Kawasaki extended warranty program (3 years) worth the money?  Will it cover the usual items/parts?

[VirginiaJim]

Depending on where you are, it's fairly inexpensive..  Florida not so much.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=225.0

[roadie]

Thanks for all the replies.  I am giving up!  I could not get those darn coils out.  At least I was able to tighten all the header nuts and cleaned all the gunk and oil around the exhaust (smokes when i start the bike).  No signs of a defective cylinder head cover gasket and all the bolts were tight.  Don't know where the oil was coming from.  It could be I put too much oil the last time I changed the oil...It it starts bleeding oil again, I'll definitely send it to the dealer for warranty work (it will expire in 5 months)

By the way is the Kawasaki extended warranty program (3 years) worth the money?  Will it cover the usual items/parts?

Even the second time was bear for me.  I found a little more success using two hands, attacking from both sides (arms wrapped around tank).  Also, getting my body lower than the stickcoil and somewhat straightening my arm gave me a bit of more "up" leverage to pop them out (different technique than the first one mentioned :-) ).   I think it is #2 coil that is really tough.  putting um back, def agree, lil grease.  I didn't do this the first time i removed them and paid for it the second time.  Def gotta be careful using any tools.  My dumb arse tried that the first time, and i can see the vice grip teeth marks on my stick coil...never did it again.  Luckily I didn't damage it, cuz they cost i think around $180 a pop.

[C1xRider]

Although this is a pretty old topic, it is at the top of the search results for removing Stick Coils.  This should probably end up in the Wiki at some point (Jim?).

I fought with mine on a recent valve inspection, and after reading this, didn't see where anyone clearly communicated what's going on (though lots of comments are really close).

The problem is the rubber around the coil is sticking to the valve cover and / or head.  Until you get the rubber boot around the stick coil to rotate, not just the stick coil itself, it will not come out (at least easily, or in one piece).  This is why grease will help in the future, but if the factory failed to grease them adequately for you (like they did on #3 for me), the first time is a PITA.

For the ones that were greased, I found that applying pressure with my fingers to the rubber just below the connector, while rotating the coil, allowed it to break free.  Once that was achieved, continuous lifting force (still with fingers only), while rotating back and forth, popped them out.

For the #3 in my situation, nothing I tried would turn the rubber part.  I actually tore part of the rubber trying to get it to move.  Finally I used a small pick / probe, with a 90 degree bend on the end, and worked it around between the rubber boot and the valve cover.  Eventually I was able to free it, and get it to move.  This is where some WD-40 would help as well (between the rubber and the valve cover).

Attached are some pics to show the newbies out there what the stick coils look like.  When fully inserted into the engine, only the connector portion at the top is visible.  A close look at the first pic, second coil from the top, shows where the rubber tore on mine.  Also notice, that's the one with no grease.

When greasing, I would apply to both the bottom area where it's visible in the first pic, as well as the upper ribbed section.  The upper rubber section ends right about even with the tip of the spark plug in that pic.  You can see the seam on the first (top) coil, where the color changes slightly.  When the rubber is stuck, the coil will rotate inside the rubber to that seam.

I also numbered mine when I removed them.  They're interchangeable, but I'm just picky that way (anal?).  I used some hot pink fingernail polish, in case anyone is curious (left over from marking red lines on Pyrometer gauges ).

Hopefully this proves helpful to someone in the future.