Author Topic: Overflow Tube question (Read 8125 times)

timsatx · « **on:** November 28, 2011, 10:29:02 AM »

I am starting to make plans to give my bike a going over. I have yet to check the valves so I am going to do that. I also want to pull the carbs and clean them out real good. While I have them apart I plan on installing some overflow tubes. I may do some other stuff but that is up in the air right now.

So my question is, what is the best way to go about installing the tubes? I am guessing that the epoxy method is not recommended so that would probably mean I need to press fit them. Anybody have any experience with that to give me some pointers? Also how much over the top the tube should be, and what size tube to use? I remember some information regarding this on the old site but I haven't seen it here.

Motor Head · « **Reply #1 on:** November 28, 2011, 11:18:37 AM »

This is from one of the fellows here, and was probably on the old site. Read up and give it a go, not to difficult to do. Recommend either a decent pair of calipers or a Mic to get the interference fit correct. Bowl O-rings are supposed to be the same as the CVH on the Hardley Abelson Sportster. Way cheaper than Kaw.
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/floatDrainTubes.htm

George R. Young · « **Reply #2 on:** November 28, 2011, 11:21:26 AM »

I happen to know that stuff is in our
* The Kawasaki Concours Forum >
* Wiki-FAQ >
* C-10, the 'classic' Concours, info >
* "Farkles" (Moderator: George R. Young) >
* Miscellaneous Frugal Farkles

Motor Head · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2011, 11:37:50 AM »

Quote from: George R. Young on November 28, 2011, 11:21:26 AM

I happen to know that stuff is in our
* The Kawasaki Concours Forum >
* Wiki-FAQ >
* C-10, the 'classic' Concours, info >
* "Farkles" (Moderator: George R. Young) >
* Miscellaneous Frugal Farkles

Exactly where I got the link from, just pointing to it.

Outback_Jon · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2011, 03:16:31 PM »

Quote from: timsatx on November 28, 2011, 10:29:02 AM

So my question is, what is the best way to go about installing the tubes?

Haven't done mine yet, but I feel that the best way (for me) will be to send them to Steve in Sunny Florida.

But then, I even put off procrastinating until another time...

Mettler1 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2011, 10:25:56 PM »

I sent my bowls to Steve. If I screwed up one float bowl it's an $80 part. Steve does it right! As long as you have the carbs off install the 2MM mode jet kit. It will idle steady at 600 rpm ( really to low for good oil pressure). It's the best since it was new.Probably better!!

timsatx · « **Reply #6 on:** November 30, 2011, 12:34:54 PM »

So do you think then that the JB Weld would work in combination with press fit or should it be either or?

Steve in Sunny Fla · « **Reply #7 on:** November 30, 2011, 12:44:39 PM »

no jb weld. It's really got to be a press fit, or your asking for a problem. Steve

George R. Young · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2011, 01:06:32 PM »

A contrary opinion:

I used a sliding fit and household 2-part epoxy. Has held up well for a couple of years now.

timsatx · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2011, 02:59:37 PM »

Contrary opinions are welcome. I was looking at the article and noticed you used copper tubing, but I am thinking if I am going to do a press fit then brass might be better as copper is softer and it might bend. Are there any contrary opinions as to material?

Outback_Jon · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2011, 03:31:52 PM »

Quote from: timsatx on November 30, 2011, 02:59:37 PM

Are there any contrary opinions as to material?

It's on a motorcycle, so titanium or carbon fiber would make the bike lighter, and therefore, faster.

Motor Head · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2011, 04:34:37 PM »

The Hobby stores have The Brass tube, some you may be able to buy just 1 12" tube. I got a pack of 4 tubes for $4. No epoxy needed, if done right. Use a drill smaller than the tube, you may have to buy that. Instead of fractional, maybe Numbered or lettered. Something .002" smaller than the tube you buy. Then drill straight with a good drill that doesn't have run-out in the chuck/ motor. Step drill it, start 1 size smaller than the final size, then they will fit tight. P.O.C!

timsatx · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2011, 10:22:00 PM »

I was looking at that. The tube is .125 and a #31 drill bit is .120 so it is .005 smaller. Once I get my hands on some I can check the numbers. If it turn out so, then I can maybe freeze it to press it in. Probably also bevel the edges so it won't hang up.

mike25 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 30, 2011, 11:32:54 PM »

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/metal-fabrication/Reamers/straight-shank-straight-flute-tmx-chucking-reamer-decimal-size-124-6-flute?utm_source=google_pr;utm_medium=cpc;utm_campaign=Reamers-google_pr;infoParam.campaignId=T9F

Drill, ream, heat bowl, cool tube, press fit.............

vinny · « **Reply #14 on:** December 01, 2011, 04:31:49 AM »

Wasn't there an update from Steve? saying that it was better to use an 8mm length of tube to avoid losing fuel due to sloshing around etc?

Motor Head · « **Reply #15 on:** December 01, 2011, 04:47:34 AM »

Quote from: timsatx on November 30, 2011, 10:22:00 PM

I was looking at that. The tube is .125 and a #31 drill bit is .120 so it is .005 smaller. Once I get my hands on some I can check the numbers. If it turn out so, then I can maybe freeze it to press it in. Probably also bevel the edges so it won't hang up.

You got the right idea, but .005" will much to tight on the little tube. .002" is pretty tight, and the Beveling on the install end is a must. You can heat the bowls up in a pan of water on the stove. Just watch it if a Woman is in charge of the Kitchen!!!

timsatx · « **Reply #16 on:** December 01, 2011, 06:46:17 AM »

Quote from: mike25 on November 30, 2011, 11:32:54 PM

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/metal-fabrication/Reamers/straight-shank-straight-flute-tmx-chucking-reamer-decimal-size-124-6-flute?utm_source=google_pr;utm_medium=cpc;utm_campaign=Reamers-google_pr;infoParam.campaignId=T9F

Drill, ream, heat bowl, cool tube, press fit.............

Dude, that is sweet. Thanks for the link.

connie_rider · « **Reply #17 on:** December 01, 2011, 07:11:41 AM »

Quote from: vinny on December 01, 2011, 04:31:49 AM

Wasn't there an update from Steve? saying that it was better to use an 8mm length of tube to avoid losing fuel due to sloshing around etc?

I think he said 7-8 mm (approx. 0.30") above the gasket surface.

Ride safe, Ted

Steve in Sunny Fla · « **Reply #18 on:** December 01, 2011, 07:17:15 AM »

Yeah, but what do I know

Steve

connie_rider · « **Reply #19 on:** December 01, 2011, 11:03:14 AM »

Quote from: Steve in Sunny Fla on December 01, 2011, 07:17:15 AM

Yeah, but what do I know Steve

Yea, what does he know?
He (the Dirty Rotten Scoundrel) probably made it up to confuse us!

Ride safe, Ted

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Author Topic: Overflow Tube question (Read 8125 times)