Replacing the OEM Heated grips with Symtec's

[Mad River Marc]

Ok
So I've been working on an idea for a few months now where I want to replace the factory heated grips with a set of Symtec's yet retain the factory heat control.  This way I can be free to use whatever set of grips I like rather then  be stuck with grip puppies or trying to put murhps grips OVER the stockers.  (The stock grips feel just like concrete...Only harder)

According to the manual, the factory ckt looks like this:



According to this diagram, Kawi wires the heaters in Series for the OEM grips,  so As I recall (and I'm prefectly prepared to be told I'm wrong ) there is MORE resistance (Ohms) for circuits wired in series but LESS current draw overall (more Ohms, less watts)... by my back of the napkin math if they are 3A at max (Per Symtec's site) on high with a 12v power source (R=E/I) that would be 4 Ohms of resistance,  therefore 2 in series (R1+R2 = Rn) would draw 8 Ohms of resistance which at 12V would be 18 watts or 1.5 amps of draw,

So as long as the stock controller can handle 3A normally, then it would handle the series wiring even better however the grips wont get as hot.   Basically at full blast it would be the equivalent of running the Grips on low (the Symtec's have 2 inputs, one for high and one for low they both use the same elements so I cannot combine them, I was just going to tie into the HOT side of the Symtecs).   However I cannot find any specs on the factory grips to know what THEY draw,  guess I have to pull one off this weekend and measure the resistance to see what they are doing...


I'd also like to find a source for the connectors that Kawa uses on the OEM grips that way I don't have to splice into the ckt (keep wiring neat, just plug and crash)

What think YE all

[jjsC6]

I've had two sets of Symtec heated elements on previous bikes - they were junk on both bikes and I've seen other people post the same problems I had.  They head would come and go, and on long rides there would be many miles where I felt no heat at all from them.  I'm very good at electrical accessories and I could never find a problem with the hookup, so I can only blame the products.

Having said that, I get what you are working on.  It's a good idea and I appreciate the effort you have put into it.  There is actually an aftermarket grip that I would like to try.  I'll have to dig it up and post a link.

[B.D.F.]

As far as the electrical load, you would have to measure the resistance of the factory grips and compare it with the resistance of the grips you want to use. As you have noted, the factory grips are wired in series so you will have to add the resistance of each grip and use the sum to calculate how much current each set will draw. Your example and math appear correct so you are on the right track.

As long as the new grips are close to the same resistance to the originals, all should be well. They can have a little less resistance (allowing a little more current to flow through them and presenting a little bigger load to the circuit) but I would say that something like 30% should be the limit. As an example, if the original grips draw 3 amps, it is probably fine for the new grips to draw as much as 4 amps but I would call that the limit. Of course you can always use the aftermarket controller with the aftermarket grips and perhaps you can mechanically place the new control where the original one was and use the original knob- that way the system would work correctly but appear to be stock (and it would be neat looking too).

Brian

Ok
So I've been working on an idea for a few months now where I want to replace the factory heated grips with a set of Symtec's yet retain the factory heat control.  This way I can be free to use whatever set of grips I like rather then  be stuck with grip puppies or trying to put murhps grips OVER the stockers.  (The stock grips feel just like concrete...Only harder)

<snip>

I'd also like to find a source for the connectors that Kawa uses on the OEM grips that way I don't have to splice into the ckt (keep wiring neat, just plug and crash)

What think YE all

[Mad River Marc]

That's what I'm thinking, If they are not hot enough I can maybe re-wire them in parallel by running a wire across and using the left side wire for positive and the right for negative (or visa versa) but I need to figure out what the controller can handle current wise

[C1xRider]

Hey Mark,

Posted a reply to your post on the COG forum, but I'll add it here too for those that are following.

On page 16-84 of the 2010 FSM, it states the resistance of the factory grip heaters as :

Right = 1.13 ~ 1.39 ohms
Left = 1.65 ~ 2.01 ohms.

Since they wired them in series, the over all resistance can be 2.78 (1.13 + 1.65) to 3.40 (1.39 + 2.01) ohms.

Given 12VDC, that would be 4.32 amps  (12 / 2.78) to 3.53 amps (12 / 3.40).  The bike typically runs closer to 14.3VDC when riding (well, mine does), which would put the current range between 4.21 to 5.14 amps.

Based on the basic design principle of using circuit components that have a max rating more than 2x the typical load, the 10 amp fuse would make sense, and the controller should be capable of handling in excess of the fuse.

Hope this helps.

[Mad River Marc]

Thanks man!
Those numbers were what I was looking for.  I was basing all my math on the amp draws provided by Symtec for their heaters.

According to Symtec, they claim 3amps on high,   so based on 3.53 amps (at 12v) that the bike's OEM draw I should be ok to just wire them up like I planned and it should be good to go.  But I will measure the resistance of the Symtec when I get it just to be sure before wiring them in

Now I need to find a source for the OEM plugs so I can make this a plug and play install


Thanks again

[bikelee]

Anyone find the OEM plugs to complete this project ? I want to do this as I hate the oem grips on my 2010 Concours. Thanks for any help !!

[bikelee]

anybody ?