Rosta Wiring Question

[MrFurious]

Where's everyone tapping into the brake wiring for the violate wire on the Rosta harness?  The instruction manual suggests at the brake switch, but if one does that then only that brake (front or rear) would deactivate the cruise.  Is it possible to just tap into the brake light harness under the seat and use the negative wire there to deactivate the CC when the brake light is activated by either brake lever?

[MrFurious]

Whoops!  Mods - please move this up to the C14 Accessories section. 

[Vic Salisbury]

Most tap into the brake wire just above the rear brakelight switch harness. Since the signal is seeking a ground through the brakelight, waiting to be "broken" by application of the brakes (front or rear), it will work.  Now if you are running LEDS, or have any "bleed over" of voltage at that connection, you may have to configure the relay set-up that Guy Young figured out years ago.

[jayke]

All C14's have LED taillights.  Have you read Brian's instuctions over at Murphs? 

He tells you what wires to connect for the brake light:
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/Rostra%20install.htm

You need a relay to make it work correctly too - it is also in his instructions.

[Flathead]

+1 on the relay & Brians instructions!
I tapped mine under the right hand cover since that was where I was mounting the 'brain'... Didn't see the need to run all the way to the rear brake switch or back by the brake light. 

[B.D.F.]

You can tap into the brake light circuit anywhere you find a wire in that circuit because it is one circuit, all the way to both brake switches. There are not separate circuits for the front and back brakes, it is just two switches in parallel. Just check the wire you want to use before cutting into it; a common sewing needle makes a good way to probe a wire (easy boys!) right through the wire's insulation without making any significant holes.

Brian

Where's everyone tapping into the brake wiring for the violate wire on the Rosta harness?  The instruction manual suggests at the brake switch, but if one does that then only that brake (front or rear) would deactivate the cruise.  Is it possible to just tap into the brake light harness under the seat and use the negative wire there to deactivate the CC when the brake light is activated by either brake lever?

[MrFurious]

I've got the relay, no issues there.  Just wasn't aware if both switches were on the same circuit or separate.  I have Brian's instructions printed out here, so otherwise I should be good to go.  If not I know where to ask questions.  lol

In the meantime I have a friend's 79 KZ650 SR hogging up all my free time as I try to sort out an electrical issue.  Runs like a raped ape, but the charging system isn't keeping the battery charged or the headlight bright while riding.  Hoping it's just the regulator/rectifier and not the stator itself.

[C14_Rider]

I tapped mine under the right hand cover since that was where I was mounting the 'brain'... Didn't see the need to run all the way to the rear brake switch or back by the brake light.

Me too.  Posi-taps are the BEST for the Rostra installation. Pics show tap and relay location I used.

[MrFurious]

Hey Brian,

Having read through the Rosta instructions and your instructions I want to make sure I'm clear on a few things before I dive into it. 

1.  Regarding the relay for the rear brake lamp, I'm assuming it's necessary to cut the blue brake wire and place the relay between the two ends.  Also, does it matter which end of the brake wire connects to which lead (#86 and 87) on the relay?  For some reason putting a relay into a ground circuit has my brain scrambled tonight.

2.  On the switch wiring you mention a second relay is necessary for those with an LED indicator.  I have the CCS-201 switch My actuator harness supplies two connectors for the switch, a 4-pin and a 2-pin (Lt. Blue & black). I did a little digging and finally found a manual for the CCS-201 online which states the black and gray wires need to be run to ground and the parking light dimmer (aka a switched power source for the LED).  Looking at the Rosta manual, it states the two pin plug from the actuator harness is to be "utilized by control switches which require an additional power and ground source such as those containing an LED indicator light or RF models."  So wouldn't one just run the gray & black wires from the switch to the 2-pin plug on the actuator harness, and if so where's the need for the relay?

3.  What gauge are the factory wires for the VSS (pink) and the clutch switch (black/white dot)?  Need to pick up some Posi-Taps and want to make sure I get the right size.  Probably 18ga but it never hurts to double check.

[B.D.F.]

Hey Brian,

Having read through the Rosta instructions and your instructions I want to make sure I'm clear on a few things before I dive into it. 

1.  Regarding the relay for the rear brake lamp, I'm assuming it's necessary to cut the blue brake wire and place the relay between the two ends.  Also, does it matter which end of the brake wire connects to which lead (#86 and 87) on the relay?  For some reason putting a relay into a ground circuit has my brain scrambled tonight.

What I do is to cut the wire that I want to tap into and then add an additional wire, and finally solder all three wire ends together (the original two wire ends along with the new wire extension). So I would cut the blue wire, strip about 1/2" of insulation off both ends, then add another wire (blue if I had one) and solder them all together. Cover the joint with shrink tubing (if you have it) or carefully with electrical tape and then run the new wire to the Rostra.

As far as which contact on the relay for the blue wire, #86 or #87, you will connect the wire to both of those terminals.

2.  On the switch wiring you mention a second relay is necessary for those with an LED indicator.  I have the CCS-201 switch My actuator harness supplies two connectors for the switch, a 4-pin and a 2-pin (Lt. Blue & black). I did a little digging and finally found a manual for the CCS-201 online which states the black and gray wires need to be run to ground and the parking light dimmer (aka a switched power source for the LED).  Looking at the Rosta manual, it states the two pin plug from the actuator harness is to be "utilized by control switches which require an additional power and ground source such as those containing an LED indicator light or RF models."  So wouldn't one just run the gray & black wires from the switch to the 2-pin plug on the actuator harness, and if so where's the need for the relay?

You only need the second relay if you have a switch that has an 'engaged' light on it. The two wires you describe are used to back illuminate the switch with internal LEDs so you can see it in the dark. You do not need a relay. Just connect those two wires to power on the bike (I do not remember which goes to which side, + or - but it is in the instuctions) and the switch illumination will come on with the ignition. There is no dimmer function on a motorcycle of course.

I would suggest you NOT connect any wires to ANYPLACE that is not specified in the tutorial. You will have additional wires and connectors left over on the Rostra harness after installation as this is a universal kit and not streamlined for any specific vehicle.

3.  What gauge are the factory wires for the VSS (pink) and the clutch switch (black/white dot)?  Need to pick up some Posi-Taps and want to make sure I get the right size.  Probably 18ga but it never hurts to double check.

I do not know but they are pretty thin. I would guess 20 gauge although they might be 18 gauge. By the way, put a dab of grease on the end of the Posi Tap before you use it and it will make a connection that will last forever. Grease keeps the wire from becoming contaminated with water after you pierce the insulation.

Best of luck with the install.
Brian

[MrFurious]

What I do is to cut the wire that I want to tap into and then add an additional wire, and finally solder all three wire ends together (the original two wire ends along with the new wire extension). So I would cut the blue wire, strip about 1/2" of insulation off both ends, then add another wire (blue if I had one) and solder them all together. Cover the joint with shrink tubing (if you have it) or carefully with electrical tape and then run the new wire to the Rostra.

As far as which contact on the relay for the blue wire, #86 or #87, you will connect the wire to both of those terminals.

I guess what I was asking here is if it matters which side of the cut blue wire goes to which terminal on the relay.  After cutting it you'll have the side coming from the front of the bike and the side continuing to the rear to the taillight.  Based on the diagram below, I'm assuming guessing the one coming from the front would connect to #87 and the one going on back to the taillight would connect to #86.

You only need the second relay if you have a switch that has an 'engaged' light on it. The two wires you describe are used to back illuminate the switch with internal LEDs so you can see it in the dark. You do not need a relay. Just connect those two wires to power on the bike (I do not remember which goes to which side, + or - but it is in the instuctions) and the switch illumination will come on with the ignition. There is no dimmer function on a motorcycle of course.

I would suggest you NOT connect any wires to ANYPLACE that is not specified in the tutorial. You will have additional wires and connectors left over on the Rostra harness after installation as this is a universal kit and not streamlined for any specific vehicle.

Gotcha on the relay.  As for the illumination wires from the switch, I guess I just don't understand why you ran yours to the provided accessory leads on the bike when the Lt. Blue and black wires are provided for them on the actuator harness.  (see attachment below)

I do not know but they are pretty thin. I would guess 20 gauge although they might be 18 gauge. By the way, put a dab of grease on the end of the Posi Tap before you use it and it will make a connection that will last forever. Grease keeps the wire from becoming contaminated with water after you pierce the insulation.

Thanks for the tip on the grease!  I guess I'll play it safe and order a couple sizes as they have one for tapping 20-24ga wire and another specifically for 18ga wire. 

[B.D.F.]

There is no "which side" of the cut blue wire because you are going to solder it back together.

How about I put it another way..... DO NOT cut through the blue wire, just carefully strip some insulation from that wire. Then wrap another wire's (a wire you provide, not already on the bike or with the Rostra) end around that area where there is no insulation and solder them together. Now there are no ends to the blue wire, just a 'tap' to bring up to the relay. Now take the other end of that extra wire (the one you just soldered to the blue wire) and connect it to the TWO CONTACTS on the relay as specified.

Cutting through the blue wire on the brake light and stripping and then soldering the ends is only an expedient way to tapping into that circuit. Do not separate that circuit on the bike: that is your brake light wire and you need that circuit intact. You are merely connecting that circuit (brake light) to the Rostra harness to allow the Rostra to 'see' the state of the brake light, whether it is ON or OFF.

I wired the illumination lights on the switch to the bike directly because it was the easiest way to do it, at least on my installation. There is no connector on the illumination wires on the switch anyway so you cannot simply plug them into the harness; you would have to cut that connector off the end of the Rostra harness and then solder the wires together or add four (4) bullet connectors to connect them in such a way as to be removable. I simply crimped two bullet connectors on the ends of the switch illumination wires and plugged them into the bike's harness. I can still remove the Rostra switch anytime without unsoldering anything (and I am on my fourth switch).

The Posi- Taps are not that critical in my opinion. Ordering both sizes and using the correct one is fine and a good idea but if you used the 18 gauge size Posi Tap on a 20 gauge wire it would still work fine and not cause any damage. Being a long way off on sizes is a bad idea but one size away from 'correct' should not be a problem. I would not use a Posi Tap made for 18 gauge wire on a 10 gauge wire, nor would I use an 8 gauge Posi Tap on a 20 gauge wire but it would be obvious that it was incorrect while you were installing it.

Brian

I guess what I was asking here is if it matters which side of the cut blue wire goes to which terminal on the relay.  After cutting it you'll have the side coming from the front of the bike and the side continuing to the rear to the taillight.  Based on the diagram below, I'm assuming guessing the one coming from the front would connect to #87 and the one going on back to the taillight would connect to #86.




Gotcha on the relay.  As for the illumination wires from the switch, I guess I just don't understand why you ran yours to the provided accessory leads on the bike when the Lt. Blue and black wires are provided for them on the actuator harness.  (see attachment below)


Thanks for the tip on the grease!  I guess I'll play it safe and order a couple sizes as they have one for tapping 20-24ga wire and another specifically for 18ga wire.

[MrFurious]

Ok, I gotcha now and it makes sense!  Thanks!