All within spec.
Now I'm at 25k, so we'll see what happens at 30.
I did mines at 20,000 miles. Only one Ex and two In were in spec and the two intakes were at .127. I changed 15 shims. I am in the process of doing my second check at 55,000 miles.
Interesting, let us know how they look on your 55K inspection. From the reports so far, they should not change much after the first one, but that remains to be seen en mass.
I'm not planning on taking my bike down to check them until we get stretch of some really ugly weather. Our riding season is just too short to do that. I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.
I never did hear why the manufacturers changed from the adjustable screw & jam nut design to the shim design. Sure makes the valve adjust a lot less convenient.
........ I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.
..............
Interesting, let us know how they look on your 55K inspection. From the reports so far, they should not change much after the first one, but that remains to be seen en mass.
I'm not planning on taking my bike down to check them until we get stretch of some really ugly weather. Our riding season is just too short to do that. I may pop the valve cover at some point and measure, then button it up to ride while I get any bucket shims needed, then dig in again to 'adjust' them.
I never did hear why the manufacturers changed from the adjustable screw & jam nut design to the shim design. Sure makes the valve adjust a lot less convenient.
Just my opinion but that is a lot of work to do twice to adjust the valve lash on a C-14. Doing it once is more than enough for most of us, never mind twice (for the same maintenance instance).
Adjusting screws and locknuts require rocker arms, which have more mass than in- line valve systems like the shimmed type. Shim over bucket requires the shim also function as the cam contact point and so the shim has to be quite large in diameter, as does the bucket that holds it. They are very easy to change but are bigger and heavier than they need to be. Shim under bucket is a very small, light system that allows very high engine RPM due to light valve train components. It is also a more precise system than most (or all) others and will hold a lash setting for a long time. The downside to the shim under bucket system is that it is more difficult to adjust; still, we spend a lot more time riding than maintaining the bike so it is a good idea overall I think.
Brian