Can you find one on ebay? Document the switch and screw the dmv.
I don't recall what year your bike is....
https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Instruments-and-Gauges-for-2014-Kawasaki-Concours-14/180033/bn_94463994?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&Submodel=ZG1400C+ABS
Isn't the mileage also stored in one of the ECU s?
I don't recall what year your bike is....
https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Instruments-and-Gauges-for-2014-Kawasaki-Concours-14/180033/bn_94463994?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&Submodel=ZG1400C+ABS
I have not followed the amazing saga closely so pardon me if im off base but I gather the theory is that the "plasma ball" fried numerous electronic items. The fuel gauge is controlled by a electronic device connevted to a float in the tank, which mau have been fried at whatever level it was at at the time. The low fuel warning is triggered by a liquid sensor mounted on the base of the fuel pump and may have been fried as well. Thus a wild @$$ theory for ya. And hay I salute you for your dogged determination!
I have similar suspicions so I am leaning towards the float/rheostat. The funky thing is that the level indication varies as expected, it just doesn't trigger the warning nor does the indicated level decrease below the "E" mark. I wonder if there is an adjustment on the float mechanical (screw) or electrical (rheostat) portion? It appears that I will have to lift the tank out either way. I want to get to the ABS pump also.The warning is not triggered by the float/rheostat but by a seperate sensor on an entirely seperate circuit, I theorise that BOTH are damaged. I have replaced the low fuel sensor on a Ducati. Unfortunately I do not see a sensor listed in the parts diagram although the mnaul does mention "Fuel reserve switch" in fuel pump removal.
But wait! There's more!
If you haven't been following the Plasma Ball saga this post will probably confuse the crap out of you. Not to worry. It will all make sense as soon as you take a great big sip of the cool-aide.
I purposefully rode the fuel tank empty today, to the point that it completely ran out of fuel and shut down.
I did not get the Low Fuel warnings. (Recall that the instrument cluster is a used replacement)
Due to a run-in with a Plasma Ball the original cluster did not indicate speed or increment the Odometers but it did indicate fuel level. Both clusters responded to fuel fills in a way that I would consider normal. The level gauge indication increased to "Full" when I put fuel in and lowered as I put miles on... but it didn't lower all of the way, on either cluster. I suspected a problem based upon what the original cluster was indicating but I didn't push it all the way until after I installed the replacement cluster. The final 2 LCD tank level segments remained on, the Low Fuel warnings did not "annunciate", and I ran out of fuel.
I, once again, pose a question to the Hive Mind. What the F is going on?
If I remember correctly, you bought that bike used; is it possible that it was already wearing a low fuel warning eliminator? That would be the easiest explanation of all, and there are quite a few of them out there so it would not be much of a surprise really.
It is an electrical circuit in the form of a harness that plugs into one of the two harnesses going to the fuel tank. It installs basically exactly as an extension cord, and so you can remove it and restore the bike to stock if you prefer. It is located behind the fuel tank; take a flashlight and poke around (Easy Boys!) in the well behind the fuel tank, find and lift out the two harnesses; if one of them has something plugged in-line in it, that would be the L.F.W.E..
Brian
I was wondering the same thing. BTW thanks Brian. I love the LFWE. It is much nicer than the intrusive warning. Nice work. Now, if only we had something to get rid of the annoying TPMS low battery warning. Lord I hate that.
Thank you for the kind words.
As to the TMPS, that one is tough to do with any kind of plug- in accessory but I did develop a method with which you can R&R the sensors, and install new batteries, without removing the wheels from the bike or the tires from the wheels, and using nothing but pair of wood- working clamps and some blocks of 2 X 4's. And it really does work quite well; I have done a bunch of them with 100% success so far (regarding the R&R of the sensor and the re-seating of the tire bead and the subsequent air- tightness of the tire: I did have one sensor that did not 'come back to life' after the procedure). Going to do some more the end of this month, well at least help, guide and solder in new batteries 'cause I snapped a bone in my left wrist. Not going to be too useful in actual R&R'ing of the sensors with only one working paw unfortunately.... :-(
Brian