OK.
First of all, I do not believe I knocked you in any way- I certainly did not mean to do so. It is your bike and you can certainly do whatever you want with / to it. So I hope any 'beatings' you perceive came from somewhere else.... and if not, please let me know and I will correct my post(s) and apologize or we will work on our communication.
I guess my thoughts are that I do not really understand what you did or why you did (and do) it. Not knocking, just stating that I am not following. Unless your ignition switch is broken, and I have never heard of that happening before although it is certainly possible. But whatever you have done / are doing regarding electrical 'bypassing' of something, you are still using all the original elements of the bike's systems (no way around that to my knowledge), and have added additional, external devices that perform some task that again, I do not understand. And there is no way to bypass or 'not use' any part of the KiPass system and still start the bike as far as I know. So if you could take a moment when you have absolutely nothing better to do, could you explain what you have going on and what problem(s) you solved? Again, not being sarcastic, I am really trying to understand what you have done and why. And I fully allow for the fact that your previous explanation(s) are great and I am simply slow on the uptake.... it has happened before. To my knowledge, there is no N/C closed switch in the electrical starting system on the C-14.
So a couple specific questions if I may:
Without that switch, and the bike in stock form, does it work correctly?
If not, what was the nature of the failure?
And lastly, and again, 100% not bashing you or even throwing a little snottiness or sarcasm you way in the least: if there is a problem with the bike, and your switch provides a work- around, why not fix the bike so it works as designed? Not to say your method does not work, but would it not be easier to just use the ign. key to start and stop the bike?
Of course just ignore all of this if you care to do so- not your job to answer my questions of course. Again, I am just curious.... In the meantime, I will re- visit your earlier posts and try to find out what circuit you have interrupted and what your new switch may be doing.
Brian
Hi Brian. I appreciate your observations. I must admit that my "solution" to the ignition switch issue that I had is nothing short of kludge. For those of you who do not know what kludge is don't worry, it is/was a term my friends and I heard back in the day to refer to a less-than-pretty solution to a programming issue. Needless to say, I don't write code any more. Too many 1's & 0's.
I tend to tear into broken stuff and then wade my way out while I try to figure out how it was suppose to work. I think I have a 50/50 success rate going it on my own. If I just can't figure it out then I post my ineptitude on this board in the hope that I don't get too badly beaten. I think I have a 50/50 success rate with that approach also. (The beatings will continue until morale improves!)
My post about the KIPASS issue makes for interesting reading and I come back and re-read it from time to time just for S&G's. The toggle switch that I installed is doing what I need it to do. I don't touch the ignition key any more and it stays in the OFF position. I shut the bike down using the Kill Switch and I'm OK with that. I pop the toggle switch down and the ignition system electronics are deenergized.
The installation of the toggle switch was meant to take the microswitch (internal to the ignition switch) out of the circuit since it was getting stuck open. If I really had the time/patience/desire/skill/money I would have pushed for a more elegant (spoken: correct) solution. Failing that, I did what I did and I am thankful that the bike didn't turn into a fireball.