Everything I've ever read about trailer loading says 10% of the payload on the hitch (i.e 2000# = 200#). How you get there depends on how you configure your inside. A motorhome won't notice the weight if you go over, the trailer will just sway a little more. If it "wig/wags" you may decide to add a stabilizer bar like on the bigger travel trailers. My toy hauler is a pig without that but pulls nicely when it's engaged.
If you load up the front with permanently mounted cabinets, tools, etc. you'll set the bike a little further back than if you have an otherwise empty trailer, so you maintain the 10% hitch load, probably centered between the front/rear wheels. So, I suppose you can plan your toolbox, cabinets, gear racks, etc., then weigh the trailer tongue, and then place the bike. THEN place the chock centered under the front wheel in the middle of the trailer so you get even axle load (L/R).
Otherwise, you'll place the bike with the engine, which is the heaviest component, very slightly ahead of the axle and work the rest of the load around that, keeping an eye on the front load. I've never weighed both ends of any bike, but a fairing, controls, & handlebars might offset the rear drive, seat, and luggage. Maybe you could find a road test somewhere that gives the weight distribution or someone else knows.
When you've balanced the load, as you said use a chock , (the $40 Harbor Freight locking chock works fine for me-plenty strong), to keep the loading spot fixed every time. If you have a changing load, the E-track system looks like it works great to give you flexibility.
One thing my toy hauler has that you might wish to add, is a somewhat rough rubber tread on the ramp and some non-skid tape on the aluminum door frame where your tires will cross it. I almost dumped my C-10 one day when I was loading across some dew covered grass and hit the aluminum frame. The back end kicked sideways and it must have been almost YouTube worthy to see. But once the tires are on the rubber, it's not slick. It's sort of a pebbled surface, not ribbed. You can get the tape at a building supply. Wipe the aluminum with alcohol and it'll stick nicely.
I'll look forward to the pictures.
Ron
Thanks for the advice Ron, I appreciate it.
Wells Cargo says to put 10-15% of the load on the tongue. So I think that what I'll do is once I get the chock on Monday is to put the bike in the trailer and weigh the tongue then position the bike and the chock till I get ~10% of the weight on the tongue (the trailer weighs ~1,300lbs and the bike is ~700lbs so that's ~200lbs tongue weight) I will be putting some cabinets and the like up front in the trailer to hold our gear, tools, and what-not. So that should bring the tongue weight up a bit too.
The GVWR of the trailer is ~3k lbs and with the weight of the trailer being ~1,300 that gives me around 1,700 lbs of cargo weight. Subtract the bike's weight and I have around 1k lbs to play with.