Author Topic: sliding forward (2015 model) & seat latch issue (Read 16651 times)

Zacharykro6 · « **on:** May 18, 2016, 09:04:19 AM »

I have the problem, like so many others, that I slide forward on my seat. I have discovered that this problem is made even worse when riding with a passenger.

Right now I am on the fence between two options, tank grips and/or rear lowering links. I like the idea of tank grips but I do not want to cover my green paint (I know I only see it when Im not riding) I do not like the idea of the rear lowering links limiting my ground clearance as my foot sometimes scrapes during turns already (with murphs pegs) if I am not paying attention to my foot angle. I want to find clear pads for another application and cut them to fit the connie's battery cover and tank lines, any suggestions?

The 2015 seat is pretty comfortable actually, but I do have a big problem with it that some other members might be able to comment on - the seat will not stay latched! when I put my bike away in the garage I have noticed now several times when the seat is not latched in and it could easily be taken right off. I dont know if it is a safety issue, but It is not something I would expect to be a problem on a 2015 model bike from any manufacturer. This will definitely be noted at the first dealer service appointment.

ZXShan, 2015 C14 ABS · « **Reply #1 on:** May 18, 2016, 09:28:22 AM »

I use "Tec Spec" products on my bike (saddle bags) and they work great but I would highly recommend that you ask for "aggressive" adhesive if you order them from that company. It will not hurt your paint but sticks much better than the normal adhesive. If you do use Tec Spec they are guaranteed so if they start to peel just take a couple of picture and contact customer service and they will send a new set out. That is how I found out about the "aggressive" adhesive! If you do use them or any other brand be sure to use alcohol to clean the area first so there is nothing that will interfere with the adhesive. I don't use the tank area pads because like you, I like the green paint color on my 2015 model and I enjoy looking at it when I am off the bike.

If your seat latch is not working correctly and the bike is still under warranty then take it to the dealer and have them look at it. If there is something wrong with the latch it will be covered.

If you use lowering links to bring the bike height down you will most likely lose the ability to use your center stand. Maybe one of the other members has found a "work around" for that but I personally would not do it.

Best of luck!

Diablo6v · « **Reply #2 on:** May 18, 2016, 10:51:31 AM »

FWIW..Adjusting the suspension correctly with proper SAG measurements eliminated the sliding forward. The metal tab on the seat that fits into the lock is curved on some seats. I bought a 2015 touring seat and the Tab was straight. The one on my stock seat would never lock right. I straightened it out in a vice and it locks perfectly.

Zacharykro6 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 18, 2016, 12:27:33 PM »

Quote from: Diablo6v on May 18, 2016, 10:51:31 AM

FWIW..Adjusting the suspension correctly with proper SAG measurements eliminated the sliding forward. The metal tab on the seat that fits into the lock is curved on some seats. I bought a 2015 touring seat and the Tab was straight. The one on my stock seat would never lock right. I straightened it out in a vice and it locks perfectly.

thanks I will check my tab out.

logic tells me that I would have more "sag" with a passenger than riding solo, but even with a passenger I was pushing forward and she was pushing me forward. This could be explained by my inexperience with this bike and a passenger, or the prodigious braking power of the c14

maxtog · « **Reply #4 on:** May 18, 2016, 04:02:43 PM »

Quote from: Zacharykro6 on May 18, 2016, 09:04:19 AM

Right now I am on the fence between two options, tank grips and/or rear lowering links.

You should not use lowering links on the rear only. You don't try to "level" the seat by radically changing the attitude of the bike. If you don't like the height of the bike, lower the rear AND the front. If you don't like the seat.... change the seat.

Quote

the seat will not stay latched!

I have the same problem with the stock seat and even worse with my replacement Sargent World Low seat.... I have a nightmare of a time trying to get them latched. I have never found a solution and tried bending things, moving things... nothing matters. Worst latching issues I have ever had with any seat on any bike.

jimmymac · « **Reply #5 on:** May 18, 2016, 07:28:04 PM »

I never had latch issues with my stock seat, and don't have issues with my corbin. I do know that you can adjust the "striker" by putting washers under it, on some bike seats...
I've also had my Wife try and scoot down into my seat. I should have told her to sit back, but didn't want to destroy our groove.

If she tries it again, I'll have to say something. It was pretty bad.

Zacharykro6 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 19, 2016, 06:59:51 AM »

Quote from: ZXShan on May 18, 2016, 09:28:22 AM

I use "Tec Spec" products on my bike (saddle bags) and they work great but I would highly recommend that you ask for "aggressive" adhesive if you order them from that company. It will not hurt your paint but sticks much better than the normal adhesive.
If your seat latch is not working correctly and the bike is still under warranty then take it to the dealer and have them look at it. If there is something wrong with the latch it will be covered.

If you use lowering links to bring the bike height down you will most likely lose the ability to use your center stand.

are Tec Spec products for grip or just protection? and are they already pre cut? I am looking at stomp pads or stomp grips for some other bike with a large tank, then cutting them where necessary. They seem to have ok reviews and are less than $50.

the bike is at a dealer now for the 600 mile first inspection, I mentioned the seat latch.

in response to others: If I am not comfortable with the sag of the bike even with a passenger is there an adjustment to lighten the preload on the rear spring? I looked at the bike but I havent looked at my manual on that.. I will ask the dealer today while its in for service if they can adjust it for me.

ZXShan, 2015 C14 ABS · « **Reply #7 on:** May 19, 2016, 08:35:44 AM »

Tec Spec products are pre-cut and for both grip and protection. They come in a few different finishes as well. Be sure to ask for "aggressive" adhesive if buy them.

Diablo6v · « **Reply #8 on:** May 19, 2016, 11:17:00 AM »

FWIW...The dealer just assembles the bike. They do not adjust anything for your riding. Here is a nice guide to understanding suspension.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/sportbike-suspension-guide

Zacharykro6 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 19, 2016, 11:35:25 AM »

Quote from: Diablo6v on May 19, 2016, 11:17:00 AM

FWIW...The dealer just assembles the bike. They do not adjust anything for your riding. Here is a nice guide to understanding suspension.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/sportbike-suspension-guide

I hope they didnt assemble it, I was upset with the $250 prep fee. What I am talking about is the adjustability of the spring by turning up or down the preload with a giant spanner (like the generic picture below). I dont have said tool, and I dont believe the concours is designed that way. I thought that this design was common.

kirkcdl · « **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2016, 08:26:21 AM »

For a stock rear shock,there's an adjustment just forward of the left saddlebag,slightly inside toward the rear tire,with a big knob on it.That's for spring preload.For rebound damping there's a small screw in the end of the shock body,accessible if you look under and behind the cylinder with the knob...Here's a link to a pdf on various settings and opinions of those settings:

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2027.0 The pdf link is in the first post...

Hope that helps...

elp_jc · « **Reply #11 on:** May 29, 2016, 05:59:30 PM »

My brand new green bike had the same seat latch issue as the OP since day 1. It was a matter of simply straightening the curved latch a little. And yes, the latch is curved, for some reason. Resist the temptation to straighten it because you'd go way too far. Also DO NOT try to straighten it while installed on the seat. You could break or crack the plastic. Put the latch on a vise, bend it a little, reinstall, and try until it's just right. Use a flashlight so you can see how much clearance you need. Keep in mind you'll have to push the seat forward enough for the bracket to drop into the latch mechanism, then push down on the seat a little until you hear the click. Mine latches perfectly now, and solid as a rock. I would never use a dealer for that kind of thing, but to each his own. If you do, check everything and make sure nothing was cracked or damaged (it happens). Good luck.

O.C. · « **Reply #12 on:** May 30, 2016, 03:38:17 AM »

I've recently noticed that my seat occasionally doesn't lock correctly and is sometimes unlatched when I return after a ride out, the bike is a 2015 model, and I never had this issue before with my previous Connies (2008. 2009, 2011 models)

I will be looking at the seat latch mechanism ....thanks for the info

gPink · « **Reply #13 on:** May 30, 2016, 05:21:42 AM »

Quote from: O.C. on May 30, 2016, 03:38:17 AM

I've recently noticed that my seat occasionally doesn't lock correctly and is sometimes unlatched when I return after a ride out, the bike is a 2015 model, and I never had this issue before with my previous Connies (2008. 2009, 2011 models)

I will be looking at the seat latch mechanism ....thanks for the info

So you never had a problem til you started hanging out with us?

O.C. · « **Reply #14 on:** May 30, 2016, 06:21:38 AM »

You would be surprised what's happened since I joined here

maxtog · « **Reply #15 on:** May 30, 2016, 07:25:54 AM »

Quote from: O.C. on May 30, 2016, 06:21:38 AM

You would be surprised what's happened since I joined here

We are trying hard to corrupt you...

elp_jc · « **Reply #16 on:** May 30, 2016, 11:25:21 AM »

Quote from: O.C. on May 30, 2016, 03:38:17 AM

I've recently noticed that my seat occasionally doesn't lock correctly and is sometimes unlatched when I return after a ride out

I had a stop when riding back home, and noticed the seat was unlatched when approaching the bike. Pushed the seat and stayed in place, but didn't hear a clear 'click', like I do now. When I got home, it popped up again after climbing down. That's when I got to work on it, and fixed it. Kawi must have changed something with the 2015 'improvements', and it's off a little. It's a bad latch design, but other than having to shove the seat forward for the bracket to fall into the latch mechanism (once adjusted properly), at least it works.

As a side comment, those who want a dealer to fix it, make sure they understand it's not the seat, but the bracket attached to the seat fhat needs modifying. Otherwise they'd probably just order a new seat, bracket, or latch mechanism (or a combination of those), and the problem will remain. Hope this helps.

DaddyFlip · « **Reply #17 on:** May 30, 2016, 02:52:21 PM »

I can't comment on the difference between a 2015 and models previous when it comes to the seat latch mechanism, but I notice it's imperative that the seat be positioned fully forward and be fully 'seated' in the forward tabs before trying to latch the rear.

With respect to sliding forward, a properly inflated Airhawk R can be slid forward such that about 1.5 inches of the pad is resting on the tank. Then scoot backward a little and all the air will form a low pressure bulge between you and the tank; just enough to keep you off the tank and level your seating position. It's quite comfortable and an Airhawk can be moved back and forth on the fly for different seating positions. Obviously, the air pressure can also be changed depending on the circumstances. It is a versatile and valuable product.

I forgot to say that the Tech Spec products are nice, but no good for keeping you off the tank ALL the time. I have the snakeskin stuff and I really like it, but I would never want to rely on squeezing the tank all the time to achieve a comfortable seating position.

O.C. · « **Reply #18 on:** May 31, 2016, 02:08:13 AM »

Quote from: maxtog on May 30, 2016, 07:25:54 AM

We are trying hard to corrupt you...

Too late I think I'm already corrupted

Quote from: elp_jc on May 30, 2016, 11:25:21 AM

I had a stop when riding back home, and noticed the seat was unlatched when approaching the bike. Pushed the seat and stayed in place, but didn't hear a clear 'click', like I do now. When I got home, it popped up again after climbing down. That's when I got to work on it, and fixed it. Kawi must have changed something with the 2015 'improvements', and it's off a little. It's a bad latch design, but other than having to shove the seat forward for the bracket to fall into the latch mechanism (once adjusted properly), at least it works.

As a side comment, those who want a dealer to fix it, make sure they understand it's not the seat, but the bracket attached to the seat fhat needs modifying. Otherwise they'd probably just order a new seat, bracket, or latch mechanism (or a combination of those), and the problem will remain. Hope this helps.

Good advice...I fixed mine yesterday by removing the latch plate from the seat base (as recommended) and straightening it a little in the jaws of my vice...it not works much better

Zacharykro6 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 31, 2016, 08:28:55 AM »

Quote from: DaddyFlip on May 30, 2016, 02:52:21 PM

With respect to sliding forward, a properly inflated Airhawk R can be slid forward such that about 1.5 inches of the pad is resting on the tank. Then scoot backward a little and all the air will form a low pressure bulge between you and the tank; just enough to keep you off the tank and level your seating position. It's quite comfortable and an Airhawk can be moved back and forth on the fly for different seating positions. Obviously, the air pressure can also be changed depending on the circumstances. It is a versatile and valuable product.

that airhawk is an interesting idea.. I would definitely like to sample one before spending around $600 on a custom corbin saddle

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Author Topic: sliding forward (2015 model) & seat latch issue (Read 16651 times)

elp_jc

elp_jc