Can carb #1 supply enough vac to open the petcock?
I thought that was the way all C-10's wereYeah I couldnt remember if it was 1 or 2. The bike came with the 1/4" hose. I never paid any attention to it until this weekend. The vac caps that I include with my BO plates are 3/16". Looks like it's time to get rid of all that unnecessary hose and hook #2 up to the petcock.
Mod - Me wrong , #2 for vacuum
Hey Chris - the T may be your problem. since 1-4 fire 360* opposite of each other, I think each time you're trying to pull a vacuum on one cylinder, you're just negating the vacuum pulse by supplying air from the other cylinder. SteveMore than likely I just fixed it. Removed all the T's, capped 1,3,and 4. I used to have to crank this bike over for ever to get it to start cold. First hit of the button she came to life.
Now you know why long distance diagnosis is next to impossible. I had no idea that the vac line was tee'd all along while you were asking for diagnosis; If I had seen the bike in person I would have removed the Tee immediately.Oh I know how aggravating it can be. I have fought this for a while (compounded with water in the gas). I do appreciate your help more than you know.
To those using multiple vacuum ports, you can source a one-way vacuum valve from automotive applications. I pull them from toyota trucks I've worked on, but you'll have to check with your local autoparts stores for applications. HTH, Steve
Geez, Snarf.... REALLY GLAD YOU FIGURED IT OUT...!!Yup cleared it right up. The way T-Cro explained it, plus the info SISF just gave; when I was rolling on the gas I was fighting for vac and the slides did not want to open. She purrs now.
I recall your problems back some time ago.
Everybody was straining their brains trying to help you figure it out...
Like Steve sed, hard to troubleshoot from long distance...
I read one of your notes recently about a stumble at XXX RPM's... Did that stumble go away also?
Ride safe, Ted
Found the Post I was referring to.No kidding I guess I oughta buy a 7th gear bevel from him so he can afford a new magic eight ball.
How much of a vac leak would it take to bog our bikes down? My bike is bogging down at wot. Mainly between 4-5 k then it pulls out of it like a monster. I have always thought the vac lines were sloppy on the nipples. It idles and revs great, it just bogs under heavy accel.
Mucho easier to trouble shoot with the info about the lines being T'eed together.
My guess: At WOT the vacuum drops. So your vacuum to the petcock (which was probably borderline at idle because of the "T") was not enough to keep the petcock open at WOT. Engine was starving for gas!
As the rpm's came up, the vacuum increased and the petcock opened back up.....
Heck you even said,,,, I have always thought the vac lines were sloppy on the nipples.
None of us caught that the plural "Lines and nipples".
It's all Steves fault!!! He shoulda known!! <evil grin>
Ride safe, Ted
Might help, but tapping on the side of the carb while idling might be more likely to knock a bit of trash loose.Worth a shot. Thanks for the info. I will know more around 4:30
Better yet would be to stop the flow of gas to the carbs and let the engine idle, While idling (and using fuel) the valve will open fully.
LIGHTLY,,,, Tap, tap, tap..... Mebbe the trash will fall out...
Ride safe, Ted
Yup cleared it right up. The way T-Cro explained it, plus the info SISF just gave; when I was rolling on the gas I was fighting for vac and the slides did not want to open. She purrs now.