About to buy a 2009 Concours 14 ABS; help pls

[dailybibliotaph]

Hey guys. First post here. So I'm due to pickup a 2009 Concours 14 ABS with 12k miles and a few mod's on Monday. Buying her for $5,700 (down from $7k asking) from original owner. A few of the add on's the owner put on are Kawasaki top trunk, Vance & Hines slip on, heated grips, vstream windshield, throttlemeister cruise control, and sargeant seat (I'm also getting all the oem stuff that came off). Super clean and always garaged.

My last bike was a Yammy V-Star 1100 - with ape bars  - it was a 2008 carb model and I loved riding back country roads with her. Unfortunately she came to an early demise by an a-hole delivery driver who ran her over while street parked here in Manhattan, where I live. Damn building security camera caught it but we couldn't make out the license plate.

Anyways, I've always loved the look and thought of sports touring bikes and I'm really excited about the red 14. I bought the V-Star used and I know general things to watch out for but wanted to ask some of the more seasoned 14 riders out there if there's anything in particular I should check for? Thanks and excited to hopefully post pics soon! And Happy New Years!

[gPink]

Welcome to the forum.

[VirginiaJim]

Make sure the front rotors aren't warped.  You can tell this by feel through the brake lever so you need to ride it and check them out.  Get the vin and run it through Kwackers website to make sure all the recalls have been done.  Check to see that both headlight adjuster knobs (up and down adj) are on the bike.  Grasp the windscreen and make sure there isn't a bunch of wobble in it.  Check for any major vibration in the bars.  Make sure the tire pressure sensors work.  They should come up on the dash after a few hundred feet of riding.  Use the top button to cycle through the display to get to the tire pressure readouts.  Make sure that the dash or the LCD screen has not been branded by the sun.  Ask if any engine mods such as adding a PCV or removal of the flies have been done.  Not a biggie but it would be nice to know up front.  The bike rattling on startup is normal.  It should stop after a few seconds.

Other topics are here...  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=93.0

Kawasaki recalls https://www.kawasaki.com/OwnerSupport/SafetyRecall    and  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=42.0

[dailybibliotaph]

Thanks gPink.

Thanks for all the info VirginiaJim. I checked the VIN - no recall items came up. The owner said the tire pressure gauge was recently changed because of dead battery. I'll definitely check to see if the headlight adjusters are there. Wouldn't have thought of checking that.

A great deal of knowledge here. I'll definitely be on here more.

[robertv]

Welcome! Loads of info on this forum and many experienced folks to help you out, but be aware the more time you spend here, the more farkles you'll end up getting!  I know I have...

[jwh20]

The good news is that the C14 in general is a very reliable and well built motorcycle.  So the issues that occur are not all that common and for the most part easy to resolve.  Some things to check before buying, however:

1) Check for any damage to the body panels or any evidence the bike has been crashed.  The frame is case aluminum and very strong but if it gets cracked in a crash it's done for.
2) The radiator is somewhat vulnerable to damage from road debris kicked up by the front tire.  Check the lower part for any damage.  A common upgrade (recommended) is to install a radiator guard and a fender extension to protect it.  An OEM radiator is expensive.  There are Chinese knock-off at lower prices but quality is uncertain.
3) Electrical problems are almost always caused by corrosion on the battery ground lead to frame connector.  It's really easy to fix but be aware of that before you spend money on a new battery.  Lots of threads here on this topic.
4) A minor oil leak is common at the cam position sensor on the top LH side of the engine.  Easy to fix with an over sized o-ring from Man Of Blues here.  He'll send you 2 for $1 and a SASE.  Not an urgent issue as the leak is really slight.
5) Some report warped front brake rotors but I think this is almost never the case.  The OEM front rotors have a tendency to corrode in the area under the brake pads under certain circumstances and this will give you a pulsing sensation when braking.  I've found that cleaning the rotors with a 3M paint stripping disk will eliminate this without having to purchase new rotors.  It seems that aftermarket rotors tend not to do this. 
6) The TPMS (tire pressure sensors) complain a lot when the batteries get low.  On this 2009 you almost certainly are on the 2nd set.  If possible, keep the old-style sensors as the batteries are easily replaced with some simple soldering.  The new style are potted and impossible to change.

Lots of complaints about the KiPass FOB but most of that comes from NOT knowing how it works and the use of the separate KEY IMMOBILIZER method of starting in case the FOB battery dies.  A 2009 should have come with TWO KiPass FOBs. You'll want to get both if possible.  If you only get one, you will ABSOLUTELY want to get at least a spare Key Immobilizer FOB (i.e. passive FOB) because if you lose the one FOB you will be in for an expensive problem.  It's NOT possible to start the bike without at least ONE FOB of either type and it's also NOT possible to bypass the KiPass system.  But I like KiPass a LOT!  It gets a lot of undeserved criticism IMHO.

Good luck with your purchase and welcome to the C14!!

[dailybibliotaph]

jwh20 - Thanks for the awesome heads up. Indeed, the TPMS were changed. Not sure if the batteries were changed or if the unit was replaced. I'll definitely look into a radiator guard/fender extension if it doesn't have one already.

I've read a lot of belly aching about KiPass. Although I can personally see why people might object to there being something in the way of starting your bike besides what we are all used to, a simple physical key, I'm used to keyless ignition/door unlock on cars for a while so it's not so strange to me. I find it a good security addition and convenient - so long as the fob is not lost! I'm getting both sets and I'll be ordering spares.

Thanks again and excited for my first multi-day ride come Jan 9th - thinking of riding down to Asheville, NC from NYC. 

[Toaster]

Welcome to the forum. Bought a 09 ABS new 2010, love the bike. Lots of tires and oil changes. One major value adjustment. Every time I get on the bike the smile doesn't come off my face. Lot of power and with a few mods a get long distance ride. Enjoy

[dailybibliotaph]

Welcome to the forum. Bought a 09 ABS new 2010, love the bike. Lots of tires and oil changes. One major value adjustment. Every time I get on the bike the smile doesn't come off my face. Lot of power and with a few mods a get long distance ride. Enjoy

Thanks Toaster. Just curious - how many miles you do the valve adjustment? Also did you do all the hose/rubber replacements as scheduled? I'm thinking of holding off on the valves till around 25k miles, bike has 12k miles.

[connie14boy]

Hey guys. First post here. So I'm due to pickup a 2009 Concours 14 ABS with 12k miles and a few mod's on Monday. Buying her for $5,700 (down from $7k asking) from original owner. A few of the add on's the owner put on are Kawasaki top trunk, Vance & Hines slip on, heated grips, vstream windshield, throttlemeister cruise control, and sargeant seat (I'm also getting all the oem stuff that came off). Super clean and always garaged.

My last bike was a Yammy V-Star 1100 - with ape bars  - it was a 2008 carb model and I loved riding back country roads with her. Unfortunately she came to an early demise by an a-hole delivery driver who ran her over while street parked here in Manhattan, where I live. Damn building security camera caught it but we couldn't make out the license plate.

Anyways, I've always loved the look and thought of sports touring bikes and I'm really excited about the red 14. I bought the V-Star used and I know general things to watch out for but wanted to ask some of the more seasoned 14 riders out there if there's anything in particular I should check for? Thanks and excited to hopefully post pics soon! And Happy New Years!

From this forum's many words of wisdom- Michelin PR 2,3, 4 or Pirelli Angel tires are mandatory for this bike. Don't fool around with other tires. My '09 has been the best bike ever. Enjoy.

[maxtog]

How many miles you do the valve adjustment?

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16175
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2375
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6357
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8936
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=11996

Lots of opinions on that topic (and many relevant threads)

[VirginiaJim]

I think the US bike is 15,000 miles.  The GTR version 26,000 miles.  If you are a higher rpm jockey I'd stick with 15K to 18k miles.  If not, every 26k miles.  I'd also stick with doing the first valve check of the bike around 15k to 18k miles just to see where you are on the specs.  When you do take it in, ask the tech for the clearances found on each valve.

[dailybibliotaph]

Maxtog - thanks for the links. Interesting read. LOTS of opinions.

Connie14boy - Yup, next set are def going to be PR 4GT's - don't know whether to go with 50 or 55 yet.

VirginiaJim - Although the cheap side of me wants to wait till 25k to do the 1st check, since I'm the second owner and the 1st 12k miles weren't my miles I think I'll do it proper and check at 15k, then space it every 25k depending on findings.

[VirginiaJim]

Good idea.  Let us know how it turns out.

[angelo]

I too am a fan of PR4's and on this bike went with the GTs.

Bike came with 50s.  Went 55 and can't see doing anything other than a 55 again.  Do yourself a favor and try it.  If you don't like the 55 a little more you can always go back.  Either way, the difference is not drastic or huge - but, I believe, noticeable.

[PeteTN_zgtr]

I went with Angels with a 55 rear. Turning is definitely better but also lost a tad of stability on interstates. Nothing violent, but just reacts more in the turbulence of semi's, where with the 50 it was rock solid on the slab.

[connie14boy]

I went with Angels with a 55 rear. Turning is definitely better but also lost a tad of stability on interstates. Nothing violent, but just reacts more in the turbulence of semi's, where with the 50 it was rock solid on the slab.

Going from the OEM #021 Crapstone 50 aspect series rear to (at the time) Michelin PR2 55 rear was very enlightening. The PR2 55 holds a line in a fast sweeper like on rails, while the Crapstone 021 50 series had to be constantly held down and corrected, and actually went into a high speed wobble/weave 2 times. This tends to be worrisome to most bikers, and causes all your sphincters undue anxiety. I'm now on my 4th PR 55 rear and will never buy anything else.

[BigEdPVD]

Ask the PO if he's changed the brake fluid.  If it hasn't been done, do it, and, as Kawasaki says to do, continue to do so once a year.  Condensation can build up in the system and foul your ABS pump unit.

[clogan]

Not trying to turn this into a tire thread, but I will say this: As much as I love my C14, it's the only vehicle I have ever had, in 50 years of driving, for which the cost-per-mile for tires is greater than anything else; even fuel. And that is especially the case now, with sub-$2/gallon gasoline.

So be prepared, and start putting away the coin now. You'll need new tires before you know it!

[connie14boy]

Not trying to turn this into a tire thread, but I will say this: As much as I love my C14, it's the only vehicle I have ever had, in 50 years of driving, for which the cost-per-mile for tires is greater than anything else; even fuel. And that is especially the case now, with sub-$2/gallon gasoline.

So be prepared, and start putting away the coin now. You'll need new tires before you know it!

When you figure $450. a pop for PR's I agree- bike tires are an order of 3X the cost of car tires when they only last 12-15,000 miles vs. 50,000-60,000 for car tires.