I drilled my gas tank and built a mount for a 3.5 gallon cylindrical tank that mounts on the pillion.
Drilling the tank and installing a tight bulkhead fitting (easy now...) was simple enough, and it remains gas-tight over a year and 45,000 miles later. Including a grip of 1,000+ mile days and at least two 1600+ milers and the Ten -n Ten rally and Big Tex rally last year. Big miles in fairly short order with no auxiliary fuel tank issues.
As Rich points out, a fuel shutoff is essential, as is a vent. I wanted:
1) simplest possible installation and system...
2) easily installed and removed.
So I went with gravity feed. I used a small catch tank as an overflow, and that vents to the atmosphere. BUT that catch tank vent has a shutoff valve, too. The tank feeds to the main tank much like the one in the picture earlier in this thread, and the fuel shutoff valve is about where the left side passenger grab handle lives. Fuel line disappears under the rear of the seat and I have a SECOND shutoff valve close to the tank. That second valve is ALWAYS closed when the auxiliary tank is off, and ALWAYS open when the auxiliary tank is installed. The vent valve is ONLY open when fuel is being transferred to the main tank. The fuel WILL NOT flow with the vent shut, and it WILL NOT leak either.
Starting with both tanks full, I ride for 180 miles or so on the main tank alone...until only the last fuel level LED is lit. Then open the fuel valve, then open the vent valve. As fuel flows in to the main tank, more LEDs will come on. How fun is that!?! I have 1/4" or 5/16" fuel line connecting the tanks. I bought both, but don't remember which one ended up on the bike. Whichever size matches the valves I got. Takes maybe 10-15 minutes to empty the auxiliary tank. Hard to know, since there is no indication that fuel isn't flowing any more, or the tank is empty, or whtvr. But after 5-8-10 minutes, no more LEDs light up. A little simple arithmetic tells us that fuel flow rate depends on the fuel level in the two tanks. Namely, fuel will flow faster at first, then slower as the auxiliary tank empties and the main tank fills. So that last bit may be just dribbling. No problem leaving the valves open, AS LONG AS YOU DON'T OVERFILL THE MAIN TANK. Yes, it will happily overflow if you fill a too-full main tank. You KNOW how I know this... Once the auxiliary tank is probably empty, close the vent valve, then close the fuel valve.
To pull the tank, I shut all of the valves, and disconnect the hose in between the fuel valves. Very simple indeed. Tank mounts on a really strong stand I made out of a piece of reinforced plastic (a storage cubby wedge shaped thing that fits behind a pickup truck bench seat, held on the pillion with thin tie downs to the grab handles. Yes, you can lift the whole bike by the auxiliary tank. Temporary but quite secure.
Total install was maybe three hours split over two days so the sealer I used with the bulkhead fitting could set up overnight. Tank can be installed or remover, full or empty, in 5-10 minutes.
Actually, the tank was originally installed on my C10, so I have most of what I needed except for the bulkhead fitting. Of course, a the C10 tank was not drilled, since the feed line to the carbs is not pump-pressurised. THAT install was super easy.
The C14 installation was easier than I expected.
Bulkhead fitting stuff: USE THE SEALER, and USE LOCTITE.
Dat
Sax
Man
edited for spelling...