Yep, the Rostra needs a to sense a stream of pulses from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) at a minimum speed to engage. It won't work with the bike sitting still. On my bike, the minimum speed is about 20 MPH when the unit will engage.
Nicole, please do not dismiss your knowledge on this- you passed 'minimal' a while ago in my opinion.
The Rostra can be tested without the bike moving by spinning the rear wheel while on the centerstand. However, I really do not like to recommend that method because the CC will not work correctly and it will jerk the throttle open and closed very quickly, making the bike pretty violent on the centerstand. Besides, if the unit passes all diagnostic steps, it will almost certainly work on the road so there is generally no need for the risky centerstand test.
Brian
I am very pleased to announce that my Rostra is once again working. Proudly I can say that my workmanship was not the cause of the problem. Instead it was this brass connector that attaches the cable end to the chain. I once again re-installed this connector and then scratched my head on how to keep it closed and prevent the problem from occurring again. Then I came up with the solution of soldering the ends of the brass connector closed. Hopefully this will keep working properly now, and interrupt a 1/4 cent piece of material to cause me discomfort on a long ride again. Let this be food for thought for anybody thinking of using these type of connectors that are included in the kit.
Hi Brian, I checked it with a voltmeter. I can check it for resistance as well though just to be sure, if its that sensitive. I have used the negative from the accessory wire for the n/c connection through the relay.
Cheers,
Mark
Hi Brian, I checked it with a voltmeter. I can check it for resistance as well though just to be sure, if its that sensitive. I have used the negative from the accessory wire for the n/c connection through the relay.
Cheers,
Mark
Well break open the scrumpy and Cornish pasties...... Finally success - big thanks to Brian and everyone else who chipped in with ideas. After Brian mentioned the resistance to ground I checked the connections again, but this time I stripped back the Negative just before it went into the Rostra unit. I first checked it with the volt meter and there was 0.01v difference between true negative and the negative going to the Rostra. Just above this is a factory Rostra splice. I cut this out and soldered a new connection. Tested it and all works, thanks everyone!
I've only really tested the unit for a few miles down the motorway and although good, it seems a little agricultural, and surges at lower speeds. I have a few millimetres of play in the cable when its at rest. Will I need to change the dip switches slightly or is this normal on this unit?
Brian, you know that I am one that pays attention to details, and now you have me concerned that I have chosen the wrong path of repair. Here comes another sleepless night worrying.You're probably good girl, although Brian could be right about the solder causing the balls to bind in the brass connector. I think the ball chain is the way to go for the linkage, because it seems it would be less likely catch on anything, and even if it did the return throttle cable and your wrist are robust enough to overpower it and force the return (certainly robust enough to over power {dare I say it?} any binding balls). If the cable that Brian prefers were to hang up on something I think it would be more difficult to overpower. However if you ever go back in there, I'd put the tubing over the brass thingy like like Brian mentioned.
<snip>
...and now for something completely different...(easy max') ...and yet related...
I thought I had a problem with my linkage hanging up a couple of times. When I came to a stop my idle was around 2100-2200 rpm and even with a helper on the other side of the bike I wasn't able to correct it byshakingrocking the bike left and right with the throttle wide open (ignition off). We continued on and I used the CC for about another hundred miles and when we arrived at the hotel all was normal. This happened a couple of more times later on that trip and I was just about to remove the plastic when it occurred to me what was causing it and I was able to recreate it. I had powered off the cruise control while it was engaged by hitting the off switch instead of tapping the brake or clutch lever to disengage it first. Apparently if powered off in this manner, my actuator stays where it was instead of returning to the home or idle position. Anybody else experience this? Needless to say I don't do that anymore.
Brian, you know that I am one that pays attention to details, and now you have me concerned that I have chosen the wrong path of repair. Here comes another sleepless night worrying.
Time to tidy everything up now..
Oh sure, just be different than the rest of us.
sailor_chic has started something here for sure.
I just can't decide if it's a good thing or not. .....
Don't be a stranger...