Ok so I need a new rear tire and I might as well do the front one too.  Riding the bike to the Connie dealer would really put me out if I had to do it every 10K just to do the tires.

I'm comfortable I can figure out how to remove the wheels.  Question is, can I trust a car shop that purports to do motorcycle tires, or another motorcycle shop to do the job correctly and not bend my front rotors?

I do not own a tire changing and balancing machine, so that is not presently an option.

Question is, can I trust a car shop that purports to do motorcycle tires, or another motorcycle shop to do the job correctly and not bend my front rotors?

Given how easy the rotors flex, bending them is a valid concern.  Just transporting the wheels to and from the dealer could get you a bent rotor.  However, you could just remove them if you're really worried.

You should also be concerned about the TPMS inside the wheel as well.  That's probably at a higher risk of damage from some random tire jockey.

I do not own a tire changing and balancing machine, so that is not presently an option.

Neither do I, but that hasn't stopped me yet. 

any bike shop should be able to mount  tires for you .They like it better when wheels are off the bike.
Some shops dont mind installing tires you bought online  and some do.

I have a local car tire shop down the street from me and have been using them for several or more years.  I bring them the wheel and they mount and balance for $20.  So far so good.  I do warn them each time about the sensors though.

i have done all my dirt bike tires and a freinds with spoons.
now that we decided to do our concours' i ordered a No Scuff tool.
havent used it yet though.

<http://no-scufftiretool.com/>

I have a local car tire shop down the street from me and have been using them for several or more years.  I bring them the wheel and they mount and balance for $20.  So far so good.  I do warn them each time about the sensors though.

And what about your rotors? Didn't you bend them once yourself Jim?

Yep.  I take the rotors off the front.  Never had an issue with the rear rotors being on.

I think I have the front wheel removal covered (pull the brake calipers, loosen the right side clamp bolts, unscrew the axle with a special tool that I fabricated from a 14 mm bolt and some nuts locked together and slide it out) but what about the rear wheel?

I think it's just remove the rear brake caliper, pull the cotter key, unscrew the nut, slide the shaft out to the left and the wheel drop out.  Any tricks and traps to this?

I've been doing it for years on my bikes and ATV's and I just finished doing it for the second time on the connie. I use a home made bead breaker using 2X4's and it also keeps the rotors off the floor. I use spoons and just very careful not to put any force on the TPS sensors. I use a Marc Parns static balancer. It takes about 1 hour start to finish for each wheel. About 20 minutes of that is getting the balance perfect. I use a ratchet strap around the outside of the tire to force the beads on. One thing to make sure of is to have some moly grease for the rear spline when you reinstall the rear tire. A Craftsman 13/16 spark plug socket used backwards with an extension fits the hex axle for removing the front tire. Once you get the hang of it, much faster then going to a dealer and allows you to buy tires off the internet at the best price you can find. It is well worth the time and effort to learn to do it yourself.

This is the 2X4 bead breaker using a 5 inch bolt and strapping:



The rotors go between the bottom 2X4's and if your careful never touch anything.

I think I have the front wheel removal covered (pull the brake calipers, loosen the right side clamp bolts, unscrew the axle with a special tool that I fabricated from a 14 mm bolt and some nuts locked together and slide it out) but what about the rear wheel?

I think it's just remove the rear brake caliper, pull the cotter key, unscrew the nut, slide the shaft out to the left and the wheel drop out.  Any tricks and traps to this?

On the rear, you must remove the brake caliper bracket as well. It's held by the axle in the back, but a hex bolt in front (that's a different size than the ones holding the caliper). Everything else is as you predicted (though you must slide the wheel to the right to get it off the spline drive). Removing the rear wheel is actually easier than the front (IMO); if you have all the tools ready, it takes about 3 minutes.

I think I have the front wheel removal covered (pull the brake calipers, loosen the right side clamp bolts, unscrew the axle with a special tool that I fabricated from a 14 mm bolt and some nuts locked together and slide it out) but what about the rear wheel?

I think it's just remove the rear brake caliper, pull the cotter key, unscrew the nut, slide the shaft out to the left and the wheel drop out.  Any tricks and traps to this?

In addition to all the other comments, you also need to remove the ABS sensor, if you have ABS.

I've been doing it for years on my bikes and ATV's and I just finished doing it for the second time on the connie. I use a home made bead breaker using 2X4's and it also keeps the rotors off the floor. I use spoons and just very careful not to put any force on the TPS sensors. I use a Marc Parns static balancer. It takes about 1 hour start to finish for each wheel. About 20 minutes of that is getting the balance perfect. I use a ratchet strap around the outside of the tire to force the beads on. One thing to make sure of is to have some moly grease for the rear spline when you reinstall the rear tire. A Craftsman 13/16 spark plug socket used backwards with an extension fits the hex axle for removing the front tire. Once you get the hang of it, much faster then going to a dealer and allows you to buy tires off the internet at the best price you can find. It is well worth the time and effort to learn to do it yourself.

This is the 2X4 bead breaker using a 5 inch bolt and strapping:



The rotors go between the bottom 2X4's and if your careful never touch anything.

Now that's what I cal Yankee Ingenuity!  Too cool.   

In addition to all the other comments, you also need to remove the ABS sensor, if you have ABS.

Both front and rear, or just rear?

Both front and rear, or just rear?

I know the manual says to remove them but I do not. I remove the brake calipers both front and rear. The ABS sensors are mounted in them and I just make sure not to stress the connection when I move the calipers out of the way.

Both front and rear, or just rear?

Just the rear.  It's the same size bolt as the caliper bolts, and it's right there with the caliper bolt.  I figure it's safer then having the large caliper bracket hanging by the wires.  Less chance of whacking it with something and stressing the wires.

The front is fine.  It's mounted to the fork tube.

When you're pulling the front calipers, remove them slowly as they just barely clear the wheel.