Thank you for posting that photo, and for your comments. And it's only common sense that the blue tint reduces light output, at least to some degree. Plus it might contribute to higher heat, which could be the reason they last less, no? Hmmm. Do those Philips Xtreme Vision have that tint? Do you rate them better than the Sylvania BrightStars (previously SilverStars, I think)? Thx.
I've tried the 'brighter' ones and they tend to burn out earlier than standard bulbs, at least with me. The standards are fine for me, but I don't run at night that much.I also don't ride much at night, so will leave well alone. Will only install brighter 'city light' LEDs. Wanted to install LED turn-signals, but don't want to pierce any wiring with load-resistors, so will leave them alone as well.
FInally, some bad news for 2015 owners who want the CopperDawg sport screen: Will have to order about $45 worth of parts to be able to install it.
Why would the installation be any different or require any different or additional parts than the 2010-2014?Because CopperDawg designed it to reuse parts of the 2010-2014 windscreen, including the top 2 black plastic parts where the screen is screwed to the brackets. And due to the vent, the new windscreen has different parts. He listed all the parts needed somewhere here, I believe. The CopperDawg will cost me $500, and mine costs $700 from parts dealers. Hopefully I can sell it for $400 and recover most of the expense . If I can't sell it for something like that (it's brand new), would just keep it for resale time. Or for a cold trip. Have a good one.
So judging from the pictures, there really is no "low/high" beam. Just a bright and brighter beam, correct? I've been looking at the LED conversions, but have had reservations about the low/high beam issue.
Thank you for posting the pictures, they are really helpful.
On each module, there are 4 LED's, 2 on top, 2 on bottom. Low beam has one LED lit on each side, high beam lights the remaining two.
Taking into account that most folks have not seen these in person, I am surprised at the strong feelings about the lack of a low beam cutoff.
On each module, there are 4 LED's, 2 on top, 2 on bottom. Low beam has one LED lit on each side, high beam lights the remaining two.
Taking into account that most folks have not seen these in person, I am surprised at the strong feelings about the lack of a low beam cutoff.
The low beam reflector bucket is not designed to have any light at all projected downward when using the low beams.
"low beam reflector bucket"?Actually, there is. Please look at the photos I posted here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18841.msg231847#msg231847 you can see the headlight is composed of two sections. The top portion is the low beam and the bottom is the high beam. No light should be hitting the bottom section when you are on low beams, otherwise, you will blind people because that section is aimed much higher.
I am not trying to give anyone a hard time, IMO, there is no such thing. The C14 reflector is static regardless of the bulb type.
Traditional halogen bulbs have a "shield" over the low beam element that inhibits light from going up from the element. The high beam element has no such shield.Correct, except you have it backwards, the shield inhibits lights from going down on low beam. High beam lights both top and bottom. This is also true for the HID bulbs. But what you have said is that the LED bulb you have will illuminate both the top and bottom on low beam, which would normally be a very bad thing to do. Of course, I don't know what the beam will look like if the LED is using a different angle on the bottom that the reflector was not designed to see.
Nice write up and it seems like a very bright unit.
I do not want to dump on your new farkle but it looks like they put out a lot more glare than even the very high wattage bulbs you had in there previously. Both from the front of the bike but especially the photo of the car and house being illuminated: it looks like there is no cut- off like on low beam at all. Just going by the photos, it looks like those lights will be blinding to on-coming traffic.
When you ride at night and pass on coming cars, if you can see the driver's face clearly illuminated, it means you are blinding him / her also. Again, not to wizz in your corn flakes but those lights may be a bit too uncontrolled for use where there are other cars (in the desert, off road, they would be GREAT).
Brian
"low beam reflector bucket"?
I am not trying to give anyone a hard time, IMO, there is no such thing. The C14 reflector is static regardless of the bulb type.
Traditional halogen bulbs have a "shield" over the low beam element that inhibits light from going up from the element. The high beam element has no such shield.
With these Cyclops Adventure LED modules, there is no "shield" and, as noted there are LED's lit top and bottom 100% of the time. Two (1 bottom + 1 top) on low and the other two (1+1 bottom, 1+1 top) lit on high beam.
I'm not sure that the angle of my particular lens blinds or otherwise obscures the sight of oncoming drivers.
If one of you would like to ride to Savannah, I will gladly put you up at my house, feed you and let you drink to your hearts content in exchange for a side-by-side comparo betwixt the LED modules and traditional halogen bulbs. I know of a great 2 lane road with very little traffic (and no street lights) that we can test on.
i hope a solution is found. I skipped the whole HID thing in anticipation of LED technology coming quickly, ain't happened for the C14!
The shield on the lamps prevents light from going down (Boys!), not up, inside the reflector. Low beam light is reflected from the top of the reflector only while high beam light uses the entire reflector, upper and lower.
I think someone just needs to experiment by getting out their microscopic soldering pencil and with changing the LEDs so that both of the top ones come on with the low beam and all four (2 top 2 bottom) come on with the high beam.
That is if I'm understanding how it is currently working.