Stock taillight real dim after Admore

[clogan]

I installed an Admore light bar a while back. It works really well: taillight is bright, brake light is REALLY bright, and turn signal functions cannot be missed. However, I have a problem: my stock taillight now has almost no function at all. Very dim tail light, and no brake light. The best I remember, it all worked fine immediately after the light bar install, but it's something I haven't been regularly checking. I'm still legal and all...Admore bar solves that. But I wonder how I can recover function for stock tail light?

Guess I've got some circuit testing to do, huh!

[just gone]

How did you attach the wires to the stock circuit? I used Positaps just fine for my Admore install but I guess they can be over tightened to the point of breaking strands in the stock wiring. If you used those other connectors, the kind you squeeze with pliers...Scotch Loks....well I won't use those anymore on anything. I've had more trailer light malfunctions on my car using those worthless things, they'll never be used again by me even in a temp. test circuit.

Good luck!  Let us know what you find.

[maxtog]

How did you attach the wires to the stock circuit? I used Positaps just fine for my Admore install but I guess they can be over tightened to the point of breaking strands in the stock wiring. If you used those other connectors, the kind you squeeze with pliers...Scotch Loks....well I won't use those anymore on anything. I've had more trailer light malfunctions on my car using those worthless things, they'll never be used again by me even in a temp. test circuit.

I used the included positaps on my Admore light bar and I was extremely impressed with them (first time I had ever seen such a thing).  I suppose it is possible to break the stock wiring, but it seems unlikely with that design.  Scotch Locks?  Those stupid things are worthless- they are very unreliable and will often ruin wiring.  Blech!

[clogan]

I connectd my light bar using the Admore pig tail, a $30 extra option that allows for plug 'n play. Then I discovered one of the pigtail wires was loose, so I had to use Posi-tap anyhow on one leg of the pigtail. Then I noted that left vs. Right turn signals were backwards, so I flipped the light bar. In fairness to Admore, they credited me the cost of the pig tail. But I wonder if that's where my problems reside. I'll wait for a rainy day, and chase it down.

[Cuda]

Ground is good ?
What ever happen to  soldering conections...

[maxtog]

What ever happen to the use of [a] solderer...

That is my preferred method, plus heat shrink.  For a splice, I would cut into the insulation with a stripper tool, spread the insulator apart some, tin it, wrap the other wire around the exposed conductor and solder them together.  Some people would prefer just cutting the wiring and then using crimp/butt connectors.  Others would put spade and socket connectors on everything.   But all of those are a lot more work than a Positap   It depends on how often the connection needs to be changed/altered, how accessible it is, and how important the connection is as to how I treat it.

[MAN OF BLUES]

Iirc, the c14 rear lighting circuits on my 08 are all small gauge 22? And aluminum wire at that...so soldering ain't gonna work.... I used scotchloks, but had to double the wire over when inserting them into the scotchloks so they would make good contact when the blade pierced the insulation. Posiloks are better, but you need the correct size ones.its likely you have one marginal connection in that tail light circuit, it took me a couple trys to make them all good, before stuffing the harness back in and buttoning up the section.

[martin_14]

so, clogan, found the culprit? is your tail light working now?

[clogan]

Fixed it; black wire came loose from the Admore pigtail. I plugged it back in, until it clicked in place, and all's well. Took 5 minutes.

[tweeter55]

 

[Cuda]

Iirc, the c14 rear lighting circuits on my 08 are all small gauge 22? And aluminum wire at that...so soldering ain't gonna work.... I used scotchloks, but had to double the wire over when inserting them into the scotchloks so they would make good contact when the blade pierced the insulation. Posiloks are better, but you need the correct size ones.its likely you have one marginal connection in that tail light circuit, it took me a couple trys to make them all good, before stuffing the harness back in and buttoning up the section.

Black wire as in ground?

I don't believe it is aluminum
http://www.arcorelectronics.com/resources/why-use-tinned-copper-wire/