Has anyone rebuilt the front calipers on his/her C10?

[Charliedog]

The reason I ask is the Kawi service manual is not much help at all.  All it says is if the caliper is to be dis-assembled, blow out the piston with compressed air.  I have a couple of K&L caliper rebuilt kits, which look like a bunch of O-rings and a few other rubber parts.  I'm pretty good at taking things apart-not so good at putting things back together again w/o instructions.

I'm doing this because my 2000 C10 with 79,000 miles on it just doesn't seem to have the front braking power it used to.  I have Galfer lines on it and have tried several different brands of brake pads-the current ones being EBC HH.  I have also bled several pints of brake fluid thru the lines, both with a Mity-Vac and the old fashioned way with a wrench and lots of patience.  The lever does not feel spongy.  It just takes more effort-and more rear brake to stop.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Larry  aka  CharlieDog
Bristol, TN     

[fred-houston]

Here is the short verision, and the way I did it.

1. Remove the caliper.
2. Clean off all the crud that you can and pull out that slide part.  I have no idea what it is called.
3. With compressed air, blow out the pistons, but be careful, if you put a lot of air to it it will come out like a shotgun slug.

4. Remove the old seals, pay attention, they are different sizes, so make sure you know which ones go back where by comparing sizes.  It really isn't that difficult.
5. Clean, clean, clean.  When you think you have them clean enough, replace the seals and that rubber plunger thing.  To put it in, I just used the shaft on the caliper and pushed it through.  I also used some brake grease on the two shafts.
6. When you insert the pistons, I lubed the seals with a light coat of brake fluid.
7. Replace brake pads and put back on bike and attach the brake lines.  Make sure you have the crush washers in the correct location.  Just pay attention where they are when you take the line off.  Pictures are always good to go back and look.

8.  Bleed, Bleed, Bleed

[works4me]

Caliper seals are directional.
Take care to insert them the right way:
they taper into the bore.

Be careful with the cleaners as seals will
swell like over-cooked pasta.

[oldsmoboat]

...
3. With compressed air, blow out the pistons, but be careful, if you put a lot of air to it it will come out like a shotgun slug...

I have two fingers and a painful memory that can confirm this.   

[Charliedog]

Thanks much for the info.  Exactly what I was hoping for.

Larry  aka  CharlieDog
Bristol, TN

[MAN OF BLUES]

OLD school thought here, and yes, I have rebuilt these and also the clutch cylinders;
I clean these meticulously with solvent, and then brake kleen.
I also have "buffed" (crosshatch) the pistons when needed to remove minor irregularities using 600 grit wet/dry paper. You can also do the same to the caliper body with a fine sandpaper flap wheel chucked in a drill press, just make sure you use oil during the process of any "honing".
Again, re-clean everything in solvent, then brake kleen. all parts should be dry and oil free.
When installing the pistons and seals, do not be tempted to use brake fluid on the external surfaces of the pistons... don't do it....
brake fluid is hygroscopic, and absorbs water... this in turn will cause the pistons to rust in behind the outer seals, and at the outer seal edge...
kleen is good...

[dboogie2288]

another way to get the pistons out is to just pump them out with fluid. chances are you'll get only one of the two out this way, but it's better than a piston flying at you from compressed air....

[Charliedog]

I went the compressed air route, making sure to keep the pistons pointed away from me.  I was using the tailgate of my truck as a work bench and did shoot the 1st piston to the far end of the box-lucky I didn't put it thru my truck's rear window. Then the challenge was getting the other piston out.  I finally put the rubber gloves I was wearing into the 1st bore and inserted the piston partially to get a good enough seal to blow out the 2nd piston.
 
I am now at the point of bungee cording the lever to the grip every night and opening a bleed screw the next morning.  Still getting a bubble of air out, so I shall keep doing that until I get no more bubbles.  The lever is feeling better and better, so thanks again for the advice.