Author Topic: [Guide] How to perform an oil change (Read 32003 times)

Conrad · « **Reply #40 on:** March 29, 2015, 09:41:38 AM »

Quote from: Deziner on March 29, 2015, 09:20:44 AM

Buy a 5 quart container of your favorite oil, attach your fob to aforementioned container, and pour. KIPASS will do the rest.

Max might want to place his fob in a sealed plastic baggie, safety first.

AlbertaDoug · « **Reply #41 on:** March 29, 2015, 05:56:44 PM »

I prefill the oil filter before putting it on, rotating it so all the filter media gets saturated.

stevewfl · « **Reply #42 on:** March 29, 2015, 06:04:08 PM »

if you spend more than 12.5 minutes, you did something wrong. 8.2 of that is letting ~~the old oil out~~ taking a break, 1.5 minutes gathering tools

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #43 on:** March 29, 2015, 07:22:19 PM »

You missed the beer part..

stevewfl · « **Reply #44 on:** March 29, 2015, 09:04:26 PM »

Quote from: VirginiaJim on March 29, 2015, 07:22:19 PM

You missed the beer part..

you're right, my bad. I need to spend more time on the couch!

Rhino · « **Reply #45 on:** March 30, 2015, 08:31:57 AM »

Quote from: stevewfl on March 29, 2015, 09:04:26 PM

you're right, my bad. I need to spend more time on the couch!

I love this couch gif!

martin_14 · « **Reply #46 on:** March 30, 2015, 01:15:19 PM »

I wonder if those overtightened oil filters have been oiled on the thread before being mounted. The lubricated threads let the filter seat, and when the oil eventually dries or gets squeezed out of the thread after a few thousand miles, the thing cannot be unscrewed.
Any bolted union, when the threads are lubricated, create a clamping force that is 3 to 5 times higher than the design specification. Usually, the fastened union puts the bolt right under the yield point of the material and some safety factor that accounts for torque spec deviation form tool calibration and operator, and friction scatter on the thread and under the head of the bolt.
Kawasaki doesn't account for lubrication on the thread on its torque recommendation for the oil filter change procedure. In fact, on page 94 of the service manual (at least the copy I have) specifically says to oil the gasket, not the thread.

MAN OF BLUES · « **Reply #47 on:** March 30, 2015, 01:26:56 PM »

The book also says to torque the filter to 13 ft/lbs.... which is insane...
When I was Tech Editor, I tested that torque once, and ren 4k miles, I wrecked 5 different filter wrenches trying to remove the filter, and ended up shooting a screw thru a cup wrench into the filter, so I could get enough torque to remove it....
At that torque, the rubber is totally flat, and the metal can rim is tightened against the boss...
hand tighten, then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a wrench is all it needs... trust me on this.....

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #48 on:** March 30, 2015, 01:43:03 PM »

Hand tight is fine..

MAN OF BLUES · « **Reply #49 on:** March 30, 2015, 02:15:09 PM »

Quote from: VirginiaJim on March 30, 2015, 01:43:03 PM

Hand tight is fine..

Neeeee...
What is the weight of an unlaydened sparrow oh Night of Neeee?

Twist it with a wrench....

We are now the Nights that say... "ickky ickkeyyyyy ick ick"

JerBear · « **Reply #50 on:** March 30, 2015, 04:35:13 PM »

And now for something completely different.........Is that a Penguin on your telly?

MAN OF BLUES · « **Reply #51 on:** March 30, 2015, 04:51:29 PM »

And now for something completely different..... a man with three buttocks....

soonerone · « **Reply #52 on:** March 30, 2015, 08:06:24 PM »

"Get on with it, this is getting too silly."

tomp · « **Reply #53 on:** April 01, 2015, 10:14:33 PM »

I do love Monty Python. Did many doobies back in the early70's watching them, on this side of the pond, on PBS stations.

Back to the O/F change. Did untold O/F changes back then too, for my job as an auto tech. Never tightened any filter beyond HAND TIGHT, if I expected to remove it at their next change. The trick is... only HAND TIGHT!

Rhino · « **Reply #54 on:** April 02, 2015, 06:37:59 AM »

Hand tight works well as long as your hands or the filter don't have oil on them, which in my case, never happens.

Rhino · « **Reply #55 on:** April 02, 2015, 06:40:03 AM »

Quote from: MAN OF BLUES on March 30, 2015, 01:26:56 PM

ended up shooting a screw thru a cup wrench into the filter,

I like that idea. Sure beats knocking a screw driver thru the filter.

tomp · « **Reply #56 on:** April 02, 2015, 08:05:24 AM »

Quote from: MAN OF BLUES on March 30, 2015, 01:26:56 PM

The book also says to torque the filter to 13 ft/lbs.... which is insane...

MOB, I love all the red arrows. Where does one find them to use with images?

sailor_chic · « **Reply #57 on:** April 02, 2015, 03:34:19 PM »

Quote from: tomp on April 02, 2015, 08:05:24 AM

MOB, I love all the red arrows. Where does one find them to use with images?

I believe that Microsoft Paint will give you those arrows

maxtog · « **Reply #58 on:** April 02, 2015, 03:52:55 PM »

Quote from: sailor_chic on April 02, 2015, 03:34:19 PM

I believe that Microsoft Paint will give you those arrows

As will LibreOffice, OpenOffice, Gimp, and Inkscape... all of which are free, open source, and multiplatform.

MAN OF BLUES · « **Reply #59 on:** April 02, 2015, 05:35:55 PM »

Quote from: tomp on April 02, 2015, 08:05:24 AM

MOB, I love all the red arrows. Where does one find them to use with images?

Those were edited in Irfanview..
Free software, and extremely robust.. I bagan using it years ago, as I always had to reduce file sizes for pictures I linked when playing Tag-o-Rama on ADV.

It is prolly the best freeware I ever downloaded for photo stuff, and has a bunch of cool add ins and editing features.

News:

Author Topic: [Guide] How to perform an oil change (Read 32003 times)

AlbertaDoug

sailor_chic