I'm new to the bike, have never seen the bars under the grips, am interested in putting these on but terrified that I'd screw up the grip heater.
How did you guys get around that?
Do the throttle cables have to be adjusted after installing the throttle tamer?
Also, has anybody tried to file the stock throttle tube say with a Dremel, to mimic the initial reduced radius of the throttle tamer cam?
I guesstimated from pics of the 400 cam on the Throttle Tamer how much to shave from the stock throttle tube. The first pic shows a line drawn with a Sharpie to guide the reduction. The second pic shows (in an unfortunate autofocus) the end result. The throttle tube is about 7 mm thick at max radius and 4.9mm thick at min radius. The cam lobes were not affected in any way, so the structural integrity should be uncompromised.
In my opinion this was a simple and very effective mod. BTW, I had picked up a used throttle tube with grip attached, from eBay, just in case things went south.
'In my opinion this was a simple and very effective mod'
Have you tried it to confirm?
Here's the stocker and the Throttle Tamer side by side. I don't think that you can make the stocker do what the TT does.
click to zoom, see details and click again for a larger zoom.
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Interesting. The cam on your Tamer seems to have a channel? I went with the pics of the 400 cam on the 40-4F-36K tamer listed as appropriate for the Connie 14. And it works.
Yes, it has a channel and this is the TT listed as fitting my bike, works great!
I guesstimated from pics of the 400 cam on the Throttle Tamer how much to shave from the stock throttle tube. The first pic shows a line drawn with a Sharpie to guide the reduction. The second pic shows (in an unfortunate autofocus) the end result. The throttle tube is about 7 mm thick at max radius and 4.9mm thick at min radius. The cam lobes were not affected in any way, so the structural integrity should be uncompromised.
Nice job SCR, I may do this to the trike.
I assume you cut a grove both sides, so the run equally?
It is interesting....
Now THAT is a good question...
I do not know what the other poster did nor am I answering for him / her but.... there is no need to grove the other side as that is not the actuating or pulling side of the cable set. The return cable will go slightly slack while the throttle tube is rotated such that the cable is actually in that groove but it does not matter; all the slack will be on the return side that is not actually used unless the throttle were to stick and need to be manually closed. Put another way, unless the throttle malfunctions or binds, there is no need or use for the second (return) cable- it is there as a fail safe mechanism only. Way back in the olden days, motorcycles only had the number of cables they actually used- one.
Brian