Engine Idling Problem......"loping at idle"

[x9rider]

Hey there,

I'm new to this forum, and needing a little help. I've recently purchased a 2010 c14 with 8,000 miles/13,000 kms on it. On idle, the engine displays a "loping" or a repeated low-high-low-high idle. With a 4 cylinder engine, I would expect a more smooth idle, especially coming from a big v-twin which idled perfectly. To add some more background, It stalled 3 times just getting it out of the dealers lot, when the clutch was pulled in (no, not a clutching issue) and stalled once the other day after blipping the throttle to 2k about a minute after starting. Yesterday I had no issues with stalling, after the resale dealer put some seafoam in the tank.

I need to figure out if this problem is serious enough to return the bike due to potential engine problems, or try to have this fixed. I have a 3 month warranty, but if i'm going to return it, obviously the shorter time I have it, the better. I love the bike, and would get another, but need to know if this one can be fixed or not.

Very concerned!

Thanks for your help!

[gPink]

X9, welcome to the forum. What is your warm idle rpm set at? We have found 1100-1200 rpm is what seems to work the best.

[x9rider]

I don't think its that high when warm. I just checked the owners manual and it says 1050-1150 at min rpm when warm. I will have to try to adjust and see what happens, and report back.

My first thoughts are that it just covers up the loping, by raising the engine idle, but will give this a shot.

[gPink]

If the idle smooths out at 1200 how is that covering it up?

[x9rider]

I am working until later today, so I wont get to test the idle theory until this aft. I cant remember what the warm idle was from yesterday, but I know the cold idle was definitely in the 800 range.

This is speculation at this point, but I wonder if any other owners have experienced the loping at lower idle speeds. When driving the bike the engine sounds fine, but then everything sounds fine at 4000 rpm (or 8500rpm, lol)

Perhaps i'm a little too sensitive to the fact that I am the second owner of this bike, and I don't know the reason why the original owner sold this bike. was he dumping it beause he was running into something he thought was happening, or simply because he moved to something else. I have never owned a bike that wasn't new until now, and stuff like this makes my brain work overtime thinking about what the problem might be.

[MAN OF BLUES]

That engine was not designed to idle less than 1000 rpm, and should be set to 1100 cold. There is likely nothing wrong with the bike that getting clean fuel and riding it won't cure....

[maxtog]

That engine was not designed to idle less than 1000 rpm, and should be set to 1100 cold.

And even a bit higher, like 1200, certainly wouldn't hurt

There is likely nothing wrong with the bike that getting clean fuel and riding it won't cure....

I know it seems like "snake oil", but I am a fan of running Techron through vehicles every now and then, especially if gas has been questionable for a while.  Haven't needed to on my C14, but it is still too new and have no issues.

[MAN OF BLUES]

And even a bit higher, like 1200, certainly wouldn't hurt

I know it seems like "snake oil", but I am a fan of running Techron through vehicles every now and then, especially if gas has been questionable for a while.  Haven't needed to on my C14, but it is still too new and have no issues.

Techron is good, but don't overdo it...you don't need to pour a lot in. When you get it in the Chevron fuel, it is not highly concentrated.

the only thing i don't like about the additives, is following someone that used them.... makes your clothes reek....

The C14 having a fuel pump allows the bike to run fuel of questionable origen much more efficiently than in the old Conni, with gravity feed and floats and jets.... there you did need to keep a watchful eye...

[maxtog]

Techron is good, but don't overdo it...you don't need to pour a lot in. When you get it in the Chevron fuel, it is not highly concentrated.

Of course not.  You add it to the tank per the instructions.  Might be like 1/3 bottle for 6gal in a Concours.  Nor should it be used all the time, just occasionally when needed.  All fuels *should* have enough built-in additives and detergent for normal use.  But sometimes reality doesn't match theory, so running some extra cleaner through once a year or so can be a good thing.

The C14 having a fuel pump allows the bike to run fuel of questionable origen much more efficiently than in the old Conni, with gravity feed and floats and jets.... there you did need to keep a watchful eye...

Yeah, my previous bike, ZRX had gravity feed.  I suppose in those systems the gas can separate more easily.  With fuel injection and pump, it should keep everything very "mixed" all the time.

[connie14boy]

Buy some Lucas fuel conditioner and put 2 ounces in the tank, set idle at 1100 warm and spank it for 100 miles. You and the bike will then be fully acquainted to what it was designed for. The reason most people sell their bikes is that it scares the bejesus outta them, and they don't know how to deal mentally with it. This bike was prolly pussified for the first 2 years and had crap fuel in the tank.

[TJ]

I would make sure you are using "Top Tier" gas as well. Seems like there is a difference after all if additives are being used or not:
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

Google top tier gas for more information.

[Conrad]

I am working until later today, so I wont get to test the idle theory until this aft. I cant remember what the warm idle was from yesterday, but I know the cold idle was definitely in the 800 range.

This is speculation at this point, but I wonder if any other owners have experienced the loping at lower idle speeds. When driving the bike the engine sounds fine, but then everything sounds fine at 4000 rpm (or 8500rpm, lol)

Perhaps i'm a little too sensitive to the fact that I am the second owner of this bike, and I don't know the reason why the original owner sold this bike. was he dumping it beause he was running into something he thought was happening, or simply because he moved to something else. I have never owned a bike that wasn't new until now, and stuff like this makes my brain work overtime thinking about what the problem might be.

800 is WAY too low for the cold idle.

Also, depending on when your '10 was originally purchased, you may have more than 3 months of warranty left. Kawasaki's factory warranty is 3 years and transferable to the new owner. You can also purchase 3 or 6 (maybe even 9) more years of extended factory warranty. See this thread for more info, http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=225.0

[PH14]

800 is WAY too low for the cold idle.

  There is really no point in doing anything else until you set the idle to where it is supposed to be.

[x9rider]

I turned up the warm idle to approx 1200, was sitting a little low at approx 1000.  Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to road test it, hopefully tomorrow

[x9rider]

Ok, tested it during an extended ride, with the rpms turned up to the recommended 1150ish. The loping is gone at idle, and all seems well!

As a side note, the new v-stream windshield is amazing!!!! Much better airflow patterns, particularly on the highway, where I can cruise at a brisk pace with my helmet shield up! Wow! Can't do that with the stock shield.

[gPink]

Ok, tested it during an extended ride, with the rpms turned up to the recommended 1150ish. The loping is gone at idle, and all seems well!

As a side note, the new v-stream windshield is amazing!!!! Much better airflow patterns, particularly on the highway, where I can cruise at a brisk pace with my helmet shield up! Wow! Can't do that with the stock shield.

Glad the idle worked out for you. If it hadn't someone would have suggested you replace the battery. 

[VirginiaJim]

Absolutely, and if it hasn't been replaced in the last 90 days you should do it anyway...

[x9rider]

^I thought I read something about replacing the battery every 90 days. Now it all makes sense 

How often to you have to lube the headlights and what is the proper amount of torque for the licence plate bolts?

[wildnphx]

  You will fit in very good around this place....  hehe

[Rhino]

^I thought I read something about replacing the battery every 90 days. Now it all makes sense 

How often to you have to lube the headlights and what is the proper amount of torque for the licence plate bolts?

Don't forget to change the blinker fluid every 5,000 blinks