I disassembled the rear drive (while replacing the rear tire) to lubricate the front & rear splines.  However, I'm having a hard time (#$@!)  trying to put it back.

I put the bottom bolt.  then as I lift the rear drive, the spring falls out nicely, and as I lift more, the whole thing comes closer but doesn't fit.  I rotate the shaft trying to get the gears match, no luck.  It feels like the something hits something.  I couldn't figure out what though.

I was able to fit it a few times (maybe once in 10~15 times) however while trying to reach to the bolt, I relaxed it a little bit and it won't come together again.  The damn thing is heavy to hold it with one hand while trying to put the top bolt in place.

This is the best bike I owned, but every maintenance is a ...itch.

any recommendations?

Got it all assembled.  Finally.  I need a break to relax a little bit and then continue to the rear wheel.

Got it all assembled.  Finally.  I need a break to relax a little bit and then continue to the rear wheel.

good to hear that you managed.
Any tip you can share with those you are planing to attempt the same task?

good to hear that you managed.
Any tip you can share with those you are planing to attempt the same task?

Here's mine: take it to the dealer? 

I use a wheeled jack with some cloths to protect the paint.  Takes a few minutes to put it back together.  Easy peasey..

if I do it again, here is my learnings:

1) leave the center plastic cover to the last.  without it, it is very easy to rotate the shaft if needed.
2) insert the spring into the rear drive instead of the shaft as shown in the user manual (this is from Fred's videos).
3) be careful about the seals on the top bolt section - they fall off during assembly, resulting in cursing and redoing the whole thing.
4) have a second person next to you to insert the top bolt immediately when the stars are all aligned.

having done it now, it's not that bad.  but be prepared for the heavy rear drive.

There ya' go- not so bad.

The first time I re-installed the final drive, I hung the whole assembly by a bolt and rotated the drive into position capturing the driveshaft. Right in the middle of all of that I realized that I was pushing / lifting a bit too much and the bike lifted off the centerstand ( ) It was like a Twilight Zone moment when the whole universe came to a halt as I released pressure and hoped that the bike would relax back down toward the back and not forward off the stand.... which it did but it took about 38 hours to get there.

The only two parts of the job I found difficult were 1) removing the driveshaft because I could not figure out that I had to keep the retaining pin depressed while pulling on the shaft (easy boys!) and 2) putting that whole seal / cover / bellows contraption back together. Not difficult but tedious and plenty of room for little slips that require doing it again.... and again.

Brian

<snip>

having done it now, it's not that bad.  but be prepared for the heavy rear drive.

Hardest thing to me was losing that dam* pin in the front part of the drive shaft..  I eventually found it, though.

Yeah but then it turns up either in the bellows or the ground nearby. It just does not go far but you are right- it is a heart stopping moment when you realize you probably need that thing. (I do not think we do need it really but I have not been man enough to toss mine in the trash to find out)

Brian

Hardest thing to me was losing that dam* pin in the front part of the drive shaft..  I eventually found it, though.

as mentioned earlier in this thread, a jack helps a lot when it comes to putting the rear drive back on or taking it out.
when disassembling, slightly push the drive unit up a bit to relieve pressure on the bolt and it slides right out, and vice versa.

i've never taken out the bottom bolt on the rear drive. after taking out the top bolt, use the jack to lower the rear drive down to the ground. just rest the rear drive on a small block of wood or something while applying moly paste on the drive shaft ends.
oil doesn't leak out anywhere from the rear drive when it's resting on the ground like that.

is this "shaft lube" part of scheduled maintenance

It doesn't call for it in my 08 service manual but it doesn't take that long to do.  I've started doing it after we had the issues with the drive shaft falling apart, although we haven't heard of any more incidents in quite awhile.

It doesn't call for it in my 08 service manual but it doesn't take that long to do.  I've started doing it after we had the issues with the drive shaft falling apart, although we haven't heard of any more incidents in quite awhile.

What??? 

Is it an actual possibility???

I thought only BMW's could break their shafts.... 

Had that issue early on with a very small number of bikes.  I think Kwak left out the clip or two on the shaft.  Some members would hear loud clicking on it when backing up which I think was an indicator that either it needed lubing or a clip was off.  Either way it needed to be looked at.

No. Mostly paranoia coupled with the clicking noise as the trunions in the U- joint pass 90 degrees. Greasing the forward spline eliminates the noise as well as the paranoia.

All of that said, the forward splines are pretty dry from the factory and a little grease never hurt any steel that I know of so no reason not to do it once during the bike's lifespan.

Brian

is this "shaft lube" part of scheduled maintenance

All of that said, the forward splines are pretty dry from the factory.

this was my observation on my 09.  it has 10k miles and the forward splines looked like new, but I feel little bit better.

Sooooooo... how often should the splines be lubed and should I use Molly paste like Honda's? (BTW: I use molly paste on the rear wheel spline every time I change the rear tire.)

I use the Honda paste and I've done it twice in 54k miles...

I use the Honda paste and I've done it twice in 54k miles...

35,000 miles, guess I'm due.