Two questions....[rear brake & gauges cover]

[Fixxer]

On my 2013, I've noticed that the rear brake seems to require a lot of pressure to stop the bike compared to other bikes I've ridden. Is there any way to adjust the pedal so you can get more leverage? FWIW, my brakes are in the first mode. (Without the extra markings outside the circles)

Is there any way to remove the clear plastic that covers the gauges/display? I've noticed a piece of debris or something that's under the plastic. (I have NO idea how that got there...) Any way to remove the plastic lens without destroying it? Drives me nuts looking at that thing.

Thanks guys,

[reesedp]

I seem to remember the original ads for the bike referencing  being set up for "Trail Braking", though it has been a looooong time since I looked.  I think it is that way intentionally.

[koval68]

You need to bleed your rear brake! Can't help with your second question.....
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=11863.0

[Conrad]

On my 2013, I've noticed that the rear brake seems to require a lot of pressure to stop the bike compared to other bikes I've ridden. Is there any way to adjust the pedal so you can get more leverage? FWIW, my brakes are in the first mode. (Without the extra markings outside the circles)

Is there any way to remove the clear plastic that covers the gauges/display? I've noticed a piece of debris or something that's under the plastic. (I have NO idea how that got there...) Any way to remove the plastic lens without destroying it? Drives me nuts looking at that thing.

Thanks guys,

Lots of guys have complained about the rear brake being somewhat anemic (at best), some don't use it at all. I don't have linked brakes and I've found that the more I use the rear brake, the better it responds. Bleeding the rear brake has helped some bikes. It's simple to do, don't forget there are two bleed points on the rear caliper, inside and outside.

As for removing the plastic over the gauges. Yes, it can be done and has been by some of the folks here. I don't know the procedure, just that it can be done. Some guys have changed the color of the backlighting on the gauges, do a search on that.

[Conrad]

I seem to remember the original ads for the bike referencing  being set up for "Trail Braking", though it has been a looooong time since I looked.  I think it is that way intentionally.

The reference to trail braking was on the first gen bikes sans linked brakes. I do it all the time. I don't know how well this works (if at all) with linked brakes. 

[Fixxer]

Just for clarification:
My rear brake has a good, solid pedal. My gripe is the amount of effort needed to get the rear brake to actually start working. I don't think bleeding the rear brake will solve my problem.
I agree that the linked brakes have something to do with my issue, though.
I find myself using the front brakes most of the time, but I prefer to use the rears alone for low speed maneuvering. Sucks that I have to step down on the rear really hard to get it to work.

As for the gauge cover, I'll research that. Thanks.

[chap]

If you are referring to the distance you have to push the brake pedal. Mine has the same, as do alot of people on here. I asked the same question. The answer given was to bleed the rear Brake. This will apparently lessen the travel of the pedal to operate the brake. I haven't done it yet, but have got used to the extra travel. i may try it in my spring service, if it ever quits snowing here. It's worth a try.

[motocopter]

The rear brake on my '12 at about the 6k mile mark went full stroke and did nothing. It was definitely air in the master cylinder. I stopped and did a pretty good look over, but nothing out of the norm. I kept riding and as I did, I'd depress the brake pedal and let it slap back against the stop. After about 20 of those, the system pumped up firm and has been good ever since. Just prior to it going to nothing, I could press the pedal down quit a bit and get barely any brake effect.

The front brake was never affected.

[VirginiaJim]

Don't forget, if you do bleed them, that there are two bleeders on the rear brake.

[Fixxer]

Like I mentioned in my earlier reply, I have a firm pedal. The pedal travel does not seem excessive. I don't have to pump the brake, nor does the pedal go full stroke when I brake.

To me, it seems like I have to push mighty hard with my right foot on the rear brake pedal to notice any sensation of slowing down.

In contrast, the fronts seem to slow down once you start thiking of touching the brake lever. 

Anyhow, just to clarify what I'm tryin to say.... Thanks for all the input so far.

[gPink]

I've got good pedal on my 08 and also have to use extra effort. You get used to it. It's comparible to my old Road King.

[556ALPHA]

I have recommended several times to remove the rear spring.   It is way too stiff.  The pedal will retract and the brake pads do not drag.  If that helps then replace the factory spring with another spring requiring much less effort.  I removed mine and it made a huge difference.

[JerBear]

Don't forget, if you do bleed them, that there are two bleeders on the rear brake.

Jim, by two bleeders do you mean on the caliper or are you referring to the one by the reservoir too?

[VirginiaJim]

two bleeders on the rear caliper....

[tonedeaf]

The C14 is my second bike with linked brakes and the rear pedal feels very similar on both. On both bikes I found a lack of much feedback about what is happening at the brakes. There is no where near as much sensitivity to what the brakes are doing, so it feels like you need  to push harder. (It also may be that the effort is affected by the need to supply some of the energy to the front brakes -- so you actually do need to push harder.)

[pistole]

- my 2012 C14 has a firm pedal too , but the braking effect is "wooden" and weak unless I really put the entire foot/leg's effort into the pedal (as opposed to just using the front of the boot).

- ie , with enough effort I can get the ABS (on the rear brake) to work on dry asphalt.

.

[Freddy]

Maybe the same issue as Fixxer but on an '08.

http://gtr1000.yuku.com/topic/6620/Re-Hard-Rear-Brake-Pedal?page=-1#.VIt_YWdxnS4

[mikeeitup]

Check for leaks! Mine had a leaky line. Replaced it and bled the system. Then go and clean your calipers. The front can do more work when clean or if replaced.

[Freddy]

Check for leaks! Mine had a leaky line. Replaced it and bled the system. Then go and clean your calipers. The front can do more work when clean or if replaced.

You missed the point. 

[mikeeitup]

You missed the point.

Probably but that's what fixed that problem on my bike.