Author Topic: C14 2008 Murphs Rider Lowering Pegs (Read 9065 times)

CrashKLRtoConnie · « **on:** June 01, 2011, 05:48:07 PM »

Today also received my package from Murphs and now getting ready to install on my 2008 C14 the rider lowering pegs.

Posting such given the old forum crash got rid of all the similar older posts.

Will post before and after bike install photos later.

(My lucky day to get 3 packages on the same day ..

Sorry for so many posts

mikeboileau · « **Reply #1 on:** June 01, 2011, 06:05:03 PM »

They look similar the the ulysses pegs.

Jaxter · « **Reply #2 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:30:36 PM »

now lets see how they look installed

B.D.F. · « **Reply #3 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:38:15 PM »

Murph's pegs are slightly lower than Ulysses pegs when installed on a C-14. This is what they look like and a comparison between Murhp's, Ulysees and C-14 (original) pegs.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=9t039qt765dla6qkl0aga72lt1&topic=589.msg5346#msg5346

Brian

Quote from: mikeboileau on June 01, 2011, 06:05:03 PM

They look similar the the ulysses pegs.

Quote from: Jaxter on June 01, 2011, 07:30:36 PM

now lets see how they look installed

556ALPHA · « **Reply #4 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:40:46 PM »

I installed mine a few weeks ago. I really like them but I caution you when adjusting the rear brake pedal. I got it feeling comfortable and found out that I had NO rear brakes. I placed it back to the stock setting and all was well. I would leave it as is and just lift my foot when applying the brake. The shifter was adjusted easily with no ill effect. I really like both the lowering pegs and risers from Murph.

mikeboileau · « **Reply #5 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:42:55 PM »

Murph should use your pics....I never gave them a second glance when I saw them on his site, The buell pegs are dirt cheap though, they both move the foot outside.

B.D.F. · « **Reply #6 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:49:26 PM »

I am not sure who you are responding to but Murph <did> use my picture on his website regarding his pegs:

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=402

That handsome '08 with the two cords dangling is mine and was the test bed for R & D on those pegs. I can show you a picture of the pegs that didn't work but I would need a wide- angle lens.

By the way, that rectangular cutout in the underside of the pegs might resemble a lightening hole but it is really an alternate fob storage area. Of course I am kidding, please don't put your fob in the space under the peg 'cause it would fall out and cause endless complaining.....

Brian

Quote from: mikeboileau on June 01, 2011, 07:42:55 PM

Murph should use your pics....I never gave them a second glance when I saw them on his site, The buell pegs are dirt cheap though, they both move the foot outside.

mikeboileau · « **Reply #7 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:51:57 PM »

Quote from: B.D.F. on June 01, 2011, 07:49:26 PM

I am not sure who you are responding to but Murph <did> use my picture on his website regarding his pegs:

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=402

That handsome '08 with the two cords dangling is mine and was the test bed for R & D on those pegs. I can show you a picture of the pegs that didn't work but I would need a wide- angle lens.

Brian

I am talking about the pics of the bare pegs.

556ALPHA · « **Reply #8 on:** June 01, 2011, 07:58:55 PM »

Those are great pics of the pegs alone. Here is a photo on my bike:

dbird29 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 02, 2011, 08:42:17 AM »

Just finished up a 2600 mile trip and love the Murph's pegs.
I could position my feet different ways and my knees were much relaxed from stock.
The pegs never ground out but I take it easy when on a trip 'cause I don't want to crash while a long way from home.

gflint · « **Reply #10 on:** June 02, 2011, 08:50:36 AM »

I have had mine on since last summer. Great for the knees. It is amazing what that little bit of extra did. Not so good for the boots. I drag toes a LOT more than with the stock pegs. When cornering I have to consciously tuck my feet in.

CrashKLRtoConnie · « **Reply #11 on:** June 03, 2011, 10:12:00 AM »

Did the install (10 minutes max) and adjusted shifter arm (5 minutes max).

Ran into more trouble adjusting the rear brake for the new lower position also ran out of daylight so decided to put adjust on hold till I reviewed the manuals.
(seems not enough room to get a wrench in there without taking everything off)

WRT REAR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT .... Any suggestions or tools or photos for those with Murphs lowering pegs?

gflint · « **Reply #12 on:** June 03, 2011, 11:10:41 AM »

I managed to do it with standard wrenches. It just takes a while and is a royal pain. Good luck getting that stupid spring back on the brake light switch.

556ALPHA · « **Reply #13 on:** June 03, 2011, 01:48:55 PM »

Quote from: CrashKLRtoConnie on June 03, 2011, 10:12:00 AM

Did the install (10 minutes max) and adjusted shifter arm (5 minutes max).

Ran into more trouble adjusting the rear brake for the new lower position also ran out of daylight so decided to put adjust on hold till I reviewed the manuals.
(seems not enough room to get a wrench in there without taking everything off)

WRT REAR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT .... Any suggestions or tools or photos for those with Murphs lowering pegs?

You will have to take at least the two right bolts off the attachment point, rotate enough to get the recall cover off, then loosen the adjustments. As I stated above it was not worth the trouble as I went back to the stock position when I had 0 rear brake after adjusting to a lower position. I use a lot of rear brake for slow speed maneuvering so it was important to have good rear brakes.

from Murphs site:

Remove the four allen bolts holding the rear brake assembly to the bike.
No need to disconnect any hydraulics.
Remove the cotter pin holding the rear brake master cylinder rod.
Remove the rod.
Remove the U shaped adjusting arm.
Do not remove the two brake rod nuts
Take a grinder (I used a drill with a grinding wheel) and grind off 1/4" of the rod. This is about all of the half threads.
Run the two nuts back down to repair any goobered up threads from your grinding.
Reposition the brake rod to the middle setting.
Reinstall everything.
Adjust the brake light switch, which may require bending the spring.
Go for a ride!

mikeboileau · « **Reply #14 on:** June 04, 2011, 10:05:29 AM »

Sounds like a PITA.

B.D.F. · « **Reply #15 on:** June 04, 2011, 11:15:18 AM »

Yeah, adjusting the rear brake isn't awful but it is not something I would do on the shoulder of the road either.

Brian

Quote from: mikeboileau on June 04, 2011, 10:05:29 AM

Sounds like a PITA.

mikeboileau · « **Reply #16 on:** June 04, 2011, 01:23:57 PM »

Quote from: B.D.F. on June 04, 2011, 11:15:18 AM

Yeah, adjusting the rear brake isn't awful but it is not something I would do on the shoulder of the road either.

Brian

Sounds like modifing and adjusting.

B.D.F. · « **Reply #17 on:** June 04, 2011, 01:33:48 PM »

You can adjust it within the limits of the piston rod (screw really) or you can cut the very end off the rod and adjust it further. Mine is adjusted to the absolute max. that it can be moved without cutting the rod. That can be done anywhere with a few hand tools but I would not do it on the side of the road. Cutting the rod requires something that can cut through about 1/4" of steel threaded rod so it has to be heavier than a set of dykes or side cutters (hacksaw, grinding wheel, cut-off wheel, etc.). Cutting the rod is not a job for the side of the road in my opinion.

Brian

Quote from: mikeboileau on June 04, 2011, 01:23:57 PM

Sounds like modifing and adjusting.

CrashKLRtoConnie · « **Reply #18 on:** June 05, 2011, 09:36:52 AM »

Alpha / BDF

Thanks for the info. Once the sky clears will roll it out and take another look. I do not want to cut the rod as wife likes me as I am.

mikeboileau · « **Reply #19 on:** June 05, 2011, 10:06:25 AM »

Let us know how it goes....

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Author Topic: C14 2008 Murphs Rider Lowering Pegs (Read 9065 times)