Front LEDs Running lights/Signals

[just gone]

On the other forum, I requested assistance on making my running
light LEDs signal flash in-sync with the signals instead of out of sync.
Here is what I went with. It works. I'm not sure if it was worth it,
but it's done.

VIDEO

Here is a schematic drawn to more closely rematch the physical
layout of the circuit.

If anyone can simplify this circuit and still have the same functions, I would be very
interested in seeing it.
-----------------------------------------
First I cut into the wires under the left front boot. In the C14 schematic excerpt
below, the wires I cut are indicated by orange-red spots with yellow centers.


I added connectors so that if my contraption failed I could just plug these two connectors together to return
to the stock wiring configuration.


Then I assembled this messy looking thing...(Blue signal relays are 10A, black LED relays are 1A)



..then it appears I flung molten solder at it from across the garage...


..then I sealed it all up with hot glue and epoxy.


I plugged it in and it worked. 
 I tucked the box in up in front of the left mirror mount. Since I had originally installed
SPDT relays on either side of the bike for my earlier set up where the LEDs flashed out
of sync with the signals, I left them in place and rewired them in series to function as an
electro-mechanical "AND" gate to trigger relay #5, this way the LEDs would still flash (out of sync)
with the Hazard flasher and the KIPASS flashes. If the turn signal is on when the hazard flasher
is on there is an interesting (albeit useless, and not shown in video) left-right-left-right flash
pattern where the LEDs on one side flash out of sync with the signals and the other side
flash in sync with the signals.

If there are no problems with this, then next year I'll replace the relays with solid state relays
and get much better connectors.

[B.D.F.]

Nice Marty! And all done without the timing device I was sure you needed :-) 

The soldering looks OK- remember, good soldering is like good sex: hot, wet and shiny. Conversely bad soldering is cold, dry and dull.

Brian

On the other forum, I requested assistance on making my running
light LEDs signal flash in-sync with the signals instead of out of sync.
Here is what I went with. It works. I'm not sure if it was worth it,
but it's done.

<snipped video, data and schematic>

If there are no problems with this, then next year I'll replace the relays with solid state relays
and get much better connectors.

[jjsC6]

Nice Marty! And all done without the timing device I was sure you needed :-) 

The soldering looks OK- remember, good soldering is like good sex: hot, wet and shiny. Conversely bad soldering is cold, dry and dull.

Brian

I think you just gave the difference between men and women having sex. 

Great work on the lighting.  There is a guy who did something along those lines on the BMW forum who wound up making and selling a plug and play circuit board.  In his case, he didn't add any lights though.  He just changed the LED turn signals (on the 1600's) to daytime running lights/turn signals.

[Sinstr]

I mounted a set of triangular 9 leds each to my stock mirrors and wired them in to the turn signals.   Works great, extends the triangle of lighting to make it easier to see the turn signals which work in conjunction with the factory signals.

[556ALPHA]

way over my head but great job!

[556ALPHA]

I mounted a set of triangular 9 leds each to my stock mirrors and wired them in to the turn signals.   Works great, extends the triangle of lighting to make it easier to see the turn signals which work in conjunction with the factory signals.

how bout a photo, I am toying with lighting options.

[maxtog]

Neat.

Also related:     http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2236.0

[Conrad]

Nice Marty! And all done without the timing device I was sure you needed :-) 

The soldering looks OK- remember, good soldering is like good sex: hot, wet and shiny. Conversely bad soldering is cold, dry and dull.

Brian

I was going to say that any sex is good sex but then I remembered where I was. I would never say such a thing here and risk the repercussions.     
 

[Marco1018]

Can i see some daylight pictures of those amber running lights you added on.  They look like what i want to do, just maybe not as complicated flash pattern lol.  And where did you get them?

[Marco1018]

and a little bit of a thread high jack, what bulbs are those in your center marker lights?

[just gone]

Can i see some daylight pictures of those amber running lights you added on.  They look like what i want to do, just maybe not as complicated flash pattern lol.  And where did you get them?

I just used these stick on strips. They are not the brightest available but they were the only weatherproof ones I could
find in a black background and amber LEDs. I may replace them with brighter ones next year. They are ugly up close.
It will be a while until my bike is back out in daylight, but I'll grab a photo in garage fluorescent light tomorrow.

....what bulbs are those in your center marker lights?

  These, available in three different shades of white (cool white, natural light, and warm white) in addition to other colors.
The ones in the video are natural light

I've also had good luck with Oznium LEDs.

[Sinstr]

The led lights I am running on my mirrors are from Lockhart Phillips and the wiring is dirt simple, they just tie into the turn signal wiring harness and believe me people see them.  I am running driving lights mounted on my mc enterprise engine guards.  They came from Whitehorse and they use a logic circuit controller.  They turn on when the engine starts and turn off ten seconds after the engine is shut off.  If someone will tell me how to post pictures I will gladly oblige.   Got my 2012 farkled to the max now.  Can't find anything else to add on.
- Lockhart Phillips turn signals
-Whitehorse driving led lights
-Saddleman seat
-mc enterprise engine and pannier guards
-Radiator guard ProjectD
-Front axel sliders ProjectD
-Murphs risers and wedges
-Murphs aluminum oil and diff filler caps
-CeeBailey tinted ultra dome windshield
-Garmin LMT GPS

[gPink]

   Got my 2012 farkled to the max now. Can't find anything else to add on.
- Lockhart Phillips turn signals
-Whitehorse driving led lights
-Saddleman seat
-mc enterprise engine and pannier guards
-Radiator guard ProjectD
-Front axel sliders ProjectD
-Murphs risers and wedges
-Murphs aluminum oil and diff filler caps
-CeeBailey tinted ultra dome windshield
-Garmin LMT GPS

Still running the the potato launcher? 

[Sinstr]

yep still got the bazooka, havent found anything I really get excited about except maybe a dual exhaust system.

[556ALPHA]

The led lights I am running on my mirrors are from Lockhart Phillips and the wiring is dirt simple, they just tie into the turn signal wiring harness and believe me people see them.  I am running driving lights mounted on my mc enterprise engine guards.  They came from Whitehorse and they use a logic circuit controller.  They turn on when the engine starts and turn off ten seconds after the engine is shut off.  If someone will tell me how to post pictures I will gladly oblige.   Got my 2012 farkled to the max now.  Can't find anything else to add on.
- Lockhart Phillips turn signals
-Whitehorse driving led lights
-Saddleman seat
-mc enterprise engine and pannier guards
-Radiator guard ProjectD
-Front axel sliders ProjectD
-Murphs risers and wedges
-Murphs aluminum oil and diff filler caps
-CeeBailey tinted ultra dome windshield
-Garmin LMT GPS

Ref photo posting:
Just click on attachments below the type box or use photobucket and click on the photo icon above the smiley face above and place the direct link in between the two spaces where the [img] appears
 

[Sinstr]

Finally got th eposting of pictures info thanks guys, here is my 2012 Sinstr

[Sinstr]

led lights on 2012 mirrors, lockhart phillips lights dirt simple tie in to wiring harness.

[just gone]

led lights on 2012 mirrors, lockhart phillips lights dirt simple tie in to wiring harness.

Thanks Sinstr, those look pretty good  , think I'll get some.

[556ALPHA]

These?   http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/store/product.php?productid=17574&cat=375&page=1

Did you have to drill through the mirror cover?

[Sinstr]

Ysa you have to drill through the mirror cap.  Easy to do but also easy to break one of the tabs that hold the cap in place.  Use a thin bladed flat tip screwdriver and work carefully.  The cover will, pop out easily.  There is a molded square on the inside of the mirror cover.  Use a dremel tool and cut that molding off and use the as the location to drill the mounting hole.  When you install the mirror use some locktite on the plastic nut just to keep it from slipping.You dont want to have to take the covers off too many times. 
You will have to drill a small hole on the inside of the mirror near the bars to run the wires out and through the the fairing.  Once there just use some quick electrical connections onto the turn signal wiring.