After my first post about thinking I was running out of gas early, the problem escalated and the bike would cut out regardless of the fuel level.  It is as if the kill switch is being turned off and back on, no sputtering, either on or off.  It was happening under accelleration at first but then started cutting out intermittently at all throttle postions.  When I manipulate the throttle off and on it would fire again.  Finally got so bad that I didn't think that I would reach the dealer going a steady pace on the freeway.  No error codes are showing.  The dealer has yet to be able to diagnose the problem and could only make the problem manifest once on a ten mile ride and thought that the temperature was high when it happened, so he's looking at heat related faults.  I feel that it's ignition or fuel injection, but he's checking all possible causes now.  Any hints or ideas from the knowledgeable C14 gurus out there?

How many miles on the bike?  Any recent exposure to excess moisture?  When it cuts out, is it zero power (not just a cylinder or two)?

If it's electrical, which it sounds like it is, it can be a pain to debug.  Also checking the fuel pressure from the pump would be a good exercise.

Only 8,200 miles, always garaged, never exposed to moisture.  The majority of riding is out & back to home with gas purchased at local, and I think reliable, gas stations.  When it cuts out it is total, no sputter or partial power, and then it comes back on with all cylinders firing.  It is just like I hit the kill switch and then flipped it back on.

Just grasping at staws here but have you taken a look at your battery and it's connections?

Just grasping at staws here but have you taken a look at your battery and it's connections?

+1 and main grounds.  Also check the ground on the PC3 or PC5 if you have one, they are notorious for the issue you describe

Another grasp, but check the side stand swith. It "may" be slightly out of adjustment (if it's even adjustable). 

Another grasp, but check the side stand swith. It "may" be slightly out of adjustment (if it's even adjustable). 

+1 Had that exact problem on my Suzuki DR650. In fact it seemed to do it on high acceleration and since it has a carburetor I mistook it for fuel problem. It turned out that the high vibrations at full throttle on the single cylinder caused the side stand bad switch to cut out the ignition. 

I can't tell from your post if it is all on the same tank of gas or not.  If so, the obvious thing would be to replace the gas.  The next fuel related issue might be a bad vent in your gas cap, although those symptoms are somewhat different.  You might also check for pinched fuel lines.

Good luck!

The latest update, after a week in the shop, is that they think it is the fuel pump and Kawasaki agrees so one is being sent.  No mention of the brass screen inside the pump or cleaning it out, just replacement - which should make it clearly under warranty.  Probably another week before she's running.  The parts for the brake recall just arrived today.  Seems like these guys don't know about FedEx overnight service...

The latest update, after a week in the shop, is that they think it is the fuel pump and Kawasaki agrees so one is being sent.  No mention of the brass screen inside the pump or cleaning it out, just replacement - which should make it clearly under warranty.  Probably another week before she's running.  The parts for the brake recall just arrived today.  Seems like these guys don't know about FedEx overnight service...

Its only your brakes, they ain't gonna pay extra to ship overnight. 

Hi,

I thought i posted a reply but somehow it doesnt show up.

Anyway i faced the same issue as you have described, after posting it in here and a little search, i spotted it : the tea-bag filter inside of the fuel pump was all clogged with rust & particles.  Some guy was nice enough to post detail pictures of dismantling and cleaning.  Kawi's design makes that the filter is inside of the pump, no part# so you would need to replace the pump.

at

Only 8,200 miles, always garaged, never exposed to moisture.  The majority of riding is out & back to home with gas purchased at local, and I think reliable, gas stations.  When it cuts out it is total, no sputter or partial power, and then it comes back on with all cylinders firing.  It is just like I hit the kill switch and then flipped it back on.

I'm late to this party, but on another bike I had the battery terminal was loose causing the bike to cut out exactly as you described.  Tracked it down when it left me stranded on the road and I was looking at the bike scratching my head and the speedo needles did a sweep (which is a sign of the bike being turned on). Pulled the seat and the terminal was hanging on by the last thread of the terminal bolt. 

I just experienced this exact problem going across central KS on my way to Death Valley. I found I could ride 10 miles with no issues then it would start the cut out, getting worse with each passing mile until I had to stop after 20 miles because the jerking on and off got bad. If I touched the throttle to accelerate it would die completely.

 Sometimes it would die when coming to a stop. I let it sit 10-20 minutes and start the cycle over again, covering 160 miles in 5 hours....ugh

I finally called for a trailer to get me and pulled home the 650 miles. I replaced the fuel filter and took it for a 50 mile ride with no issues through the rpm range.

I am not convinced this was the problem because the way it would run great for 10 miles and start acting up over and over again for that amount of time, This filter only had 2000 miles on it. I ride a 2010 with 40,000 on it and replaced the filter this winter since I had a hesitation last year. The problem was not there before leaving on the trip out west.

I also checked the battery terminals and all was well there.

John

See, Jim? Somebody did use the search function